Multi wave tacoing of rear road wheel.



meb

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Aug 21, 2003
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I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago. Thought I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of a single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves from true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?

The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
 
"meb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago. Thought
> I'd true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of a
> single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves from
> true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple
> chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>
> The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were
> fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
> straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
> goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>
>
> --
> meb
>

My first feeling is that the rim is a goner. Time for a new rim.
But I'd probably try loosening all the spokes to just a little snug and then
see if the rim is still all tacoed and wobbly bent like that. If so it is a
goner, if not, tighten and retension and true the wheel back up.
 
meb wrote:
> I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago. Thought
> I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of a
> single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves from
> true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple
> chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>
> The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were
> fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
> straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
> goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>
>

excess spoke tenson can have this effect. the commonly advocated
"tension as high as the rim can bear" is incorrect. use a $60
tensiometer and a manufacturer spec like 100kgf.
 
spokes were undone?, set at rest against the rim, then with bulges
markedoutsides and center, bulges in stages corrected middle
outward(along the circumference) to the drive side.
favor the drive side when balancing the non drive side to proceed
overcorrect the drive side the increase tension on nondrive side when
bringing the drive side back to running center
?
 
spokes were undone?, set at rest against the rim, then with bulges
markedoutsides and center, bulges in stages corrected middle
outward(along the circumference) to the drive side.
favor the drive side when balancing the non drive side to proceed
overcorrect the drive side the increase tension on nondrive side when
bringing the drive side back to running center
?

Not undone, slack due the warpage. Full range of travel allready attempted with no further tightening available on the side the rim has warped to.
 
jim beam said:
meb wrote:
> I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago. Thought
> I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of a
> single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves from
> true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple
> chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>
> The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were
> fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
> straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
> goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>
>

excess spoke tenson can have this effect. the commonly advocated
"tension as high as the rim can bear" is incorrect. use a $60
tensiometer and a manufacturer spec like 100kgf.

It hadn't been tensioned recently, merely checked to be true. It's not aparent spoke tension would change without some repair or something that first warped the rim.
 
meb wrote:
> jim beam Wrote:
>
>>meb wrote:
>>
>>>I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago.

>>
>>Thought
>>
>>>I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of

>>
>>a
>>
>>>single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves

>>
>>from
>>
>>>true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple
>>>chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>>>
>>>The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were
>>>fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
>>>straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
>>>goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>>>
>>>

>>
>>excess spoke tenson can have this effect. the commonly advocated
>>"tension as high as the rim can bear" is incorrect. use a $60
>>tensiometer and a manufacturer spec like 100kgf.

>
>
> It hadn't been tensioned recently, merely checked to be true. It's not
> aparent spoke tension would change without some repair or something that
> first warped the rim.
>
>

wheels are all too commonly built with very uneven tension. it can look
perfectly true in the stand, but a few miles down thew road, it's a pigs
rear end. slacken all the spokes, then re-true from scratch. if you
happen to have a virgin rim handy after you've slackened them all, hold
it aganst your old rim and look for deviation. if they're flat against
each other and there's no obvious flat spots, you're good to retrue. if
not, your rim is bent and needs straightening or replacement. don't
forget to "stress relieve" to make sure all the spokes are properly
bedded in. buy that tensiometer.
 
meb wrote:
> [email protected] Wrote:
>> spokes were undone?, set at rest against the rim, then with bulges
>> markedoutsides and center, bulges in stages corrected middle
>> outward(along the circumference) to the drive side.
>> favor the drive side when balancing the non drive side to proceed
>> overcorrect the drive side the increase tension on nondrive side when
>> bringing the drive side back to running center
>> ?

>
> Not undone, slack due the warpage. Full range of travel allready
> attempted with no further tightening available on the side the rim has
> warped to.


Put the side you want to bend on the floor, stand on the rim, and hop up and
down a bit. Do it in small increments, and you should be able to get the
rim to workable condition.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
jim beam said:
meb wrote:
> jim beam Wrote:
>
>>meb wrote:
>>
>>>I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago.

>>
>>Thought
>>
>>>I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of

>>
>>a
>>
>>>single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves

>>
>>from
>>
>>>true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit multiple
>>>chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>>>
>>>The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes were
>>>fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
>>>straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
>>>goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>>>
>>>

>>
>>excess spoke tenson can have this effect. the commonly advocated
>>"tension as high as the rim can bear" is incorrect. use a $60
>>tensiometer and a manufacturer spec like 100kgf.

>
>
> It hadn't been tensioned recently, merely checked to be true. It's not
> aparent spoke tension would change without some repair or something that
> first warped the rim.
>
>

wheels are all too commonly built with very uneven tension. it can look
perfectly true in the stand, but a few miles down thew road, it's a pigs
rear end. slacken all the spokes, then re-true from scratch. if you
happen to have a virgin rim handy after you've slackened them all, hold
it aganst your old rim and look for deviation. if they're flat against
each other and there's no obvious flat spots, you're good to retrue. if
not, your rim is bent and needs straightening or replacement. don't
forget to "stress relieve" to make sure all the spokes are properly
bedded in. buy that tensiometer.

Started to loosen the spokes then noticed the rim has a flattened-out-of-round-section with the rim also spread at that point which is where the slack spokes were so I've hit something like a hole or a small rise with a proximally right angle without noticing the damage.

Would I be correct in assuming a restraightened aluminum rim would give rise to questions of integrity of strength?
 
meb wrote:
> jim beam Wrote:
>
>>meb wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam Wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>meb wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I recently warped a rear wheel that was true a few weeks ago.
>>>>
>>>>Thought
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I’d true it today with the spoke tension, but found that instead of
>>>>
>>>>a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>single warp point the aluminum rim (an Araya had about five waves
>>>>
>>>>from
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>true. No recollection of how the rim bent-did I likely hit

>>
>>multiple
>>
>>>>>chuckholes, or is there likely some other phenomenon at issue?
>>>>>
>>>>>The magnitude is such that even when the opposite flange spokes

>>
>>were
>>
>>>>>fully tightened, the low tension side spokes were slack. Couldn't
>>>>>straighten even applying force opposite the bulges-so is that rim a
>>>>>goner or is there some alignment technique for major warped wheels?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>excess spoke tenson can have this effect. the commonly advocated
>>>>"tension as high as the rim can bear" is incorrect. use a $60
>>>>tensiometer and a manufacturer spec like 100kgf.
>>>
>>>
>>>It hadn't been tensioned recently, merely checked to be true. It's

>>
>>not
>>
>>>aparent spoke tension would change without some repair or something

>>
>>that
>>
>>>first warped the rim.
>>>
>>>

>>
>>wheels are all too commonly built with very uneven tension. it can
>>look
>>perfectly true in the stand, but a few miles down thew road, it's a
>>pigs
>>rear end. slacken all the spokes, then re-true from scratch. if you
>>happen to have a virgin rim handy after you've slackened them all,
>>hold
>>it aganst your old rim and look for deviation. if they're flat
>>against
>>each other and there's no obvious flat spots, you're good to retrue.
>>if
>>not, your rim is bent and needs straightening or replacement. don't
>>forget to "stress relieve" to make sure all the spokes are properly
>>bedded in. buy that tensiometer.

>
>
> Started to loosen the spokes then noticed the rim has a
> flattened-out-of-round-section with the rim also spread at that point
> which is where the slack spokes were so I've hit something like a hole
> or a small rise with a proximally right angle without noticing the
> damage.
>
> Would I be correct in assuming a restraightened aluminum rim would give
> rise to questions of integrity of strength?
>
>

sorry to sound vague, but it depends on the degree of deformation. rims
are extruded to within a few percent of their ductile limit so gross
deformation is a problem. minor should be ok. but be careful.
 
maybe-the straightening torques are very very low-1/4 turn off seated
nipple
bash your head on the garage floor a coupla times and think about that
if the truer trues with bangblam toooooo much torque right off the uh
bat then the truer immediately counteraffects runs outta torque
 

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