My First DIY MTB Build



Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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G'day fellow cyclists,

I am new to this forum and this is my first post.

Currently I am building a MTB from the frame up, this is my first build project. Coming back to cycling after 7 years, this will be a challenge and a learning stage to gain more in-depth knowledge on mountain bikes. I have been actively searching for used/new parts on a few forums and post updates of my build on my blog (http://www.mydiymtb.blogspot.com). In the long run, I'm looking to learn how to maintain my bike as well. I have not started putting parts together yet, and will begin doing that in about a week or two. Pictures of parts I'm planning to buy, and parts that I have acquired are also on the blog.

I would love to hear you feedback and ideas regarding the build and parts that I am considering to get. Feel free to post links, comments and suggestions on the blog or forum. The main purpose of the blog is to document the build and learn from comments and suggestions that readers / forum members give. This will be the learning cycle of the build.


During the past few days I have come across numerous problems which I have blogged, which I hope I can get some feedback from.

I have acquired an On-One Inbred 26er 16" frame, Marzocchi Bomber forks, SRAM Cassette and a few other parts in the past two weeks. Your comments and suggestions will definitely help in the building process.




Hope to hear from you guys soon.


Cheers!
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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The frame only works with disc brakes, are Avid Juicy 7's worth buying second hand?

I was looking at a few sets last night which was going for AUD$150 -250.
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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I need some advise on break cables, I recently acquired a pair of BB7's.

Does anyone know what kind of cables I should get ? Clarks or ?
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Aren't AVID JUICY brakes hydraulic?

If so, then you will need [COLOR= #ff0000]hoses[/COLOR] which are capable of handling the particular fluid used (if there is difference, that is, between hoses which use brake fluid & hoses which use mineral oil).

The LENGTH of a hose cannot be changed ... so, you need to be very specific when you order the hose for your specific bike's build ...

  • 5cm too long is probaby better than what you think is the perfect length because a slightly longer length will allow you the option to change handlebar height
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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Originally Posted by alfeng .

Aren't AVID JUICY brakes hydraulic?

If so, then you will need [COLOR= #ff0000]hoses[/COLOR] which are capable of handling the particular fluid used (if there is difference, that is, between hoses which use brake fluid & hoses which use mineral oil).

The LENGTH of a hose cannot be changed ... so, you need to be very specific when you order the hose for your specific bike's build ...

  • 5cm too long is probaby better than what you think is the perfect length because a slightly longer length will allow you the option to change handlebar height
Actually the Avid BB7's are mechanical. The set I got off a forum needs new cables.

How would I work out the length of the cable for a 16'' On-One Inbred 26'er ?

Here's a link to the specifications of the frame from the manufacturer : http://www.onone.co.uk/i/q/FROOSD1226/on_one_inbred_26er_slot_dropout
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Oh, my bad ...

I don't cut the actual cable until AFTER the cable housing is in place ...

  • I prefer leave the cable end which is protruding beyond the anchor a little longer than most ...

As far as cable brand, ANY will actually do ...

  • but, stainless steel is definitely better than galvnized
  • teflon coated ([COLOR= #808080]do they still make-or-sell them?[/COLOR]) probably isn't worth the money

BTW. 'I' lightly lube the cable REGARDLESS of the quality of the cable or housing ... a thin layer of any light grease suffices.
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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Yeah the cables one the brakes looks fine but the other may need to be replaced.

I need to get rotors at the moment, kind of lost on what size rotors I should get for these BB7's.

About a few minutes ago I just updated my blog with pics and the specifications of the wheels I'm about to receive.

Do let me know what you would recommend : http://www.mydiymtb.blogspot.com/



Cheers!
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Originally Posted by Smokez87 .

Yeah the cables one the brakes looks fine but the other may need to be replaced.

I need to get rotors at the moment, kind of lost on what size rotors I should get for these BB7's.

About a few minutes ago I just updated my blog with pics and the specifications of the wheels I'm about to receive.

Do let me know what you would recommend : http://www.mydiymtb.blogspot.com/
Off hand, I don't know what rotor size you can-or-should use ...

The easiest way to find out (presuming your hubs use ISO 6-bolt rotors) is to cut a (probably-)180mm circular disc from a piece of cardboard & mount it to your hubs ...

And then, see if that is the right size OR if it is would be too small-or-too-large when you slip the rotor over them ...

  • "regular" ISO rotors tend to be generic & inexpensive UNLESS you opt for ones which have a wavy circumference

BTW & FYI. If you still need to know ...

  • at the moment, AFAIK, there are only two types of Cassette "tools" -- Shimano & Campagnolo. YOU want a Shimano-compatible Casette tool.
  • there are reasons for buying SRAM, but they are ([COLOR= rgb(255, 0, 0)]IMO[/COLOR]) few ... but, since you have already chosen SRAM shifters, you really don't have a choice with regard to the derailleurs other than cost ...
  • your XT front derailleur may-or-may-not work with your SRAM shifters, BTW.
  • YOUR frame's BB shell determines the type of crankset & BB it can use ... if your frame does not have a BB30 shell (there should be a decal on the downtube if it uses BB30 cranks), then it is probably an English threaded BB shell & you would therefore need a BB which has English threading -- e.g., Hollowtech II, MegaExo, Octalink, ISIS, etc.

If you haven't ordered your chainset, yet, then you probably will be happier-in-the-long-run if you opt for 175mm cranks.
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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alfeng said:
Quote: Originally Posted by Smokez87 .

Yeah the cables one the brakes looks fine but the other may need to be replaced.

I need to get rotors at the moment, kind of lost on what size rotors I should get for these BB7's.

About a few minutes ago I just updated my blog with pics and the specifications of the wheels I'm about to receive.

Do let me know what you would recommend : http://www.mydiymtb.blogspot.com/



Off hand, I don't know what rotor size you can-or-should use ...

The easiest way to find out (presuming your hubs use ISO 6-bolt rotors) is to cut a (probably-)180mm circular disc from a piece of cardboard & mount it to your hubs ...
And then, see if that is the right size OR if it is would be too small-or-too-large when you slip the rotor over them ...
  • "regular" ISO rotors tend to be generic & inexpensive UNLESS you opt for ones which have a wavy circumference

BTW & FYI. If you still need to know ...

  • at the moment, AFAIK, there are only two types of Cassette "tools" -- Shimano & Campagnolo. YOU want a Shimano-compatible Casette tool.
  • there are reasons for buying SRAM, but they are (IMO) few ... but, since you have already chosen SRAM shifters, you really don't have a choice with regard to the derailleurs other than cost ...
  • your XT front derailleur may-or-may-not work with your SRAM shifters, BTW.
  • YOUR frame's BB shell determines the type of crankset & BB it can use ... if your frame does not have a BB30 shell (there should be a decal on the downtube if it uses BB30 cranks), then it is probably an English threaded BB shell & you would therefore need a BB which has English threading -- e.g., Hollowtech II, MegaExo, Octalink, ISIS, etc.

If you haven't ordered your chainset, yet, then you probably will be happier-in-the-long-run if you opt for 175mm cranks.
Hi ! I got a set of rotors off a forum Avid G3's brand new 6 bolts. Haven't received them yet though. The bb shell is an english threaded bb shell. Thats pretty much the last thing i need to order . Other than that, the smaller parts such as tubes and stuff i'll get off my LBS. The build is so far so good. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?wq1kmg
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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I just got my wheels and fork in the mail.

Need some advise on what kind of spacers I should use. I don't want to cut the tube and replace the star nut.

I don't really have the tools to replace the star nut or should I just go down to my Local Bike Shop and get it changed?


Updated with pics on my blog today : http://www.mydiymtb.blogspot.com

Would love to hear your comments and suggestions.





Cheers!
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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79db9554-ad8c-5e12.jpg
Current progress
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Originally Posted by Smokez87 .

Need some advise on what kind of spacers I should use. I don't want to cut the tube and replace the star nut.

I don't really have the tools to replace the star nut or should I just go down to my Local Bike Shop and get it changed?
FYI. You RARELY-or-NEVER need to replace the star nut in a non-carbon fibre steerer ...

99.9% of the time, you can gently tap it to a lower location within the steerer OR tap it all the way through & reinsert it in the top of the steerer tube ...

  • to install OR tap a star nut to a new location, you can use a wood dowel rod (e.g., a foot long or ~10cm length of a broom handle) + an available hammer

BTW. If the picture shows the steerer length before being cut, then it probably doesn't need to be cut any shorter.

The choice between carbon fibre, alloy, or steel head tube spacers is a matter of budget, availability, & your aesthetic sensibility ...

The spacer(s) should be long enough so that there is approximately an 1/8" (0.3175cm +/-) between the top of the steerer tube & either the top of the stem or the top of the last spacer (it became the vogue about a decade ago to leave a spacer on top of the stem before the final cut was made on the steerer, and then it somehow it seems to have become a fashion statement to leave it in place!?!).
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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Cool I'm going down to my local bike shop to get the spacers this Wednesday, and a couple of other things such as break pads, tubes, tyre's and chain.

I did check out the price of spacers they are definitely affordable, not sure if the local bike shop keeps them in stock.

Just need to put in the order for my BB and Cranks and I'll be good to go hopefully.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Originally Posted by Smokez87 .

Cool I'm going down to my local bike shop to get the spacers this Wednesday, and a couple of other things such as break pads, tubes, tyre's and chain.

I did check out the price of spacers they are definitely affordable, not sure if the local bike shop keeps them in stock.

Just need to put in the order for my BB and Cranks and I'll be good to go hopefully.
Your calipers should have pads installed, already ...

BTW. As far as the crankset + BB, although 'I' am a big fan of the Octalink, future BB replacement may become problematic, so I recommend that you opt for a Hollowtech II or MegaExo crankset + Shimano Hollowtech BB cups ...

  • I am going to say that if the threading on BB shell is 'clean' that many times you do NOT need a tool to install the cups ... BUT, it really depends on who set the machine which cut the threads on the cups because I have encountered BB cups whose threads were cut just a little too precisely and so they felt as if they were almost impossible to install EVEN WITH an installation wrench, including some Shimano Hollowtech II cups -- on the cups which only threaded in smoothly for the first 1cm, I found that the (brutal!) resolution was to 'knock' the tips of the teeth down with a FLAT FILE around the entire circumference of the cup's teeth ...
  • it seems that FSA MegaExo cups can be installed by hand (at least, the ones which I have when installed in the frames that I have), but others have complained about bearing longevity.
 

Smokez87

New Member
Jun 25, 2012
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These are the cranks I'm getting comes bundled with a BB too http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40496

I mean for no I guess that's good enough came recommended from a friend on another forum. I checked the reviews too seemed pretty decent.

Well the guy who sold me the frame has used it once or twice before and sold it to me, basically its got no marks whatsoever. But the bb shell has been greased, I may have to go to down to a bike shed over the weekend if this is the case. Worst case scenario if the Cranks aren't here by the weekend my bike is going to be rideable the following weekend.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Originally Posted by Smokez87 .

These are the cranks I'm getting comes bundled with a BB too http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40496

I mean for no I guess that's good enough came recommended from a friend on another forum. I checked the reviews too seemed pretty decent.

Well the guy who sold me the frame has used it once or twice before and sold it to me, basically its got no marks whatsoever. But the bb shell has been greased, I may have to go to down to a bike shed over the weekend if this is the case. Worst case scenario if the Cranks aren't here by the weekend my bike is going to be rideable the following weekend.
THAT particular Shimano crank is a good choice ...

  • I'm still not sure about the 170mm length unless you are about 5'4" +/- tall, BTW ...

As far as the BB, you can just wipe it out with a rag or paper towel & put some fresh grease on the threads.

Presuming you don't have a Hollowtech II BB tool, TRY screwing the BB cups in with your bare hands before either buying a tool or bringing the bike to your bike shop to have them install the cups.