My Record shifter stopped clicking.....

My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. It still
shifts just fine, it's just that the audio feedback isn't there any longer. Is this a sign that the
shifter has "worn in"? Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing? I
have about 6000 miles on it, if that is relevant.

James

 

James Negris wrote:
> My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. It still
> shifts just fine, it's just that the audio feedback isn't there any longer. Is this a sign that
> the shifter has "worn in"?

Maybe, but maybe past worn in and on its (slow) way out.

> Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing

Two tiny ratchet springs* gradually wear. The shifters will continue to get softer and less distinct
- both on up and down shifting, and you'll get less over-shift on the downshifts. Continue using the
Ergos until you're not happy with the performance, then get the springs replaced promptly. It is a
gradual thing. They won't suddenly fail until they're much more worn, and even then, they still
function as sort of "friction shifters".

* http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/spares03_A.pdf - page 37 - EC-RE209 x 2 for right shifter, EC-RE210
for left (may also eventually benefit from changing some other springs as well).

> ? I have about 6000 miles on it, if that is relevant.

All depends on how often you shift per mile, but I suspect you're due for new springs within the
next one or two k.

~PB

 

You need the 2 "G" springs and 2 x 4mm hex wrenches. You might as well get new derailleur wire and
housing while you are at it. Zinn wrote something that was step by step and worked for me. Figure 1
hour to do it the first time and about 10 minutes afterwards.

On 13 Feb 2003 15:22:39 -0800, [email protected] (James Negris) wrote:

>My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. It still
>shifts just fine, it's just that the audio feedback isn't there any longer. Is this a sign that the
>shifter has "worn in"? Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing? I
>have about 6000 miles on it, if that is relevant.
>
>James

 

"James Negris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. It still
> shifts just fine, it's just that the audio feedback isn't there any longer. Is this a sign that
> the shifter has "worn in"? Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of
> replacing? I have about 6000 miles on it, if that is relevant.

The working bits, a large sintered shift cam and the springs which engage it, make a louder noise
when new because the springs are round-section wire. The spring material wears to a D-section and
gets quieter and smoother when moving across the points of the shift cam.

Eventually the spring fails and from your description of a dramatic change it sounds as if one of
them has broken. I say "one" because if both had failed the lever would not stay in gear. The spings
are dirt cheap and easily changed. http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html

Diagram on the last page, page 5.
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

james-<< My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. << Or
does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing?

think it's in need of new shift springs-go see a bike shop that 'qui si parla Campagnolo', or send
it to me and I'll OVH it.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected].supernews.com>...
> "James Negris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct "click" when I upshift. It still
> > shifts just fine, it's just that the audio feedback isn't there any longer. Is this a sign that
> > the shifter has "worn in"? Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of
> > replacing? I have about 6000 miles on it, if that is relevant.
>
> The working bits, a large sintered shift cam and the springs which engage it, make a louder noise
> when new because the springs are round-section wire. The spring material wears to a D-section and
> gets quieter and smoother when moving across the points of the shift cam.
>
> Eventually the spring fails and from your description of a dramatic change it sounds as if one of
> them has broken. I say "one" because if both had failed the lever would not stay in gear. The
> spings are dirt cheap and easily changed. http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html
>
> Diagram on the last page, page 5.

Where are Gocycle's golden words when we needed them?

 

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post. You've been very helpful. I'll look into getting the
shift return springs replaced.

James

 

> http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html

What does a "hook bend probing tool" look like? Any pics on the web? One of these might help
me........

I'm sure I didn't get the final coil spring done right on mine. Really baffles me, because I
seemingly wound it up as much as the mechanism could cope with (downshifting all the way first), but
the action is not as spring-loaded as when new. Shifting works but it's not as nice'n'quick'n'easy
as I would like.

thanks ~PB (with 2001 Ergos)

 

You upshift all the clicks with the shift paddle and place the mainspring in the slots. Holding the
spring with your thumb, you use the hook tool to pull outer edge of the spring back so you can hook
it on the post.

When you get it right, the lever works as new. When there's not enough wind in the spring, it works
but feels like the shifter is well broken in.

On Fri, 14 Feb 2003 19:38:53 -0000, "Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote:

>> http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html
>
>What does a "hook bend probing tool" look like? Any pics on the web? One of these might help
>me........
>
>I'm sure I didn't get the final coil spring done right on mine. Really baffles me, because I
>seemingly wound it up as much as the mechanism could cope with (downshifting all the way first),
>but the action is not as spring-loaded as when new. Shifting works but it's not as
>nice'n'quick'n'easy as I would like.
>
>thanks ~PB (with 2001 Ergos)

 

"Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html
>
> What does a "hook bend probing tool" look like? Any pics on the web? One of these might help
> me........
>
> I'm sure I didn't get the final coil spring done right on mine. Really baffles me, because I
> seemingly wound it up as much as the mechanism could cope with (downshifting all the way first),
> but the action is not as spring-loaded as when new. Shifting works but it's not as
> nice'n'quick'n'easy as I would like.

Here's Snap-On's assortment of picks and probes along with a bicycle mechanic's "pointy spoke" tool:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/POINTY.JPG

The spoke tool is cheaper than the Snap On models. It's used to open PTFE lined cable casing, push
out debris from tire cuts and such. A twist with a plier and you have a hooked probe!

Today I enhanced the Ergo rebuild directions above with a copy of Paul Southworth's
excellent version.
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Here's Snap-On's assortment of picks and probes along with a bicycle mechanic's "pointy spoke"
> tool: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/POINTY.JPG
>
> The spoke tool is cheaper than the Snap On models. It's used to open PTFE lined cable casing, push
> out debris from tire cuts and such. A twist with a plier and you have a hooked probe!

Andrew Muzi is carrying on in the long and honorable tradition of bicycle mechanics who are able to
come up with useful and inexpensive tools, using a little thought and whatever junk is lying around.
The Wright brothers would be proud, although their most famous invention, the heavier-than-air
flying machine, has led to horrendously complicated and sometimes fatal results.

Me, I find a leather awl useful for opening cable casing and tire cut cleansing.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR

 

I am having problems with gear changing as well.Most of the gears in the middle of the cassette are
very vague. The tend to jump up and down cogs instead of staying in one gear.

I replaced the shift springs about 10,000 km ago and when I recently disassembled the levers the
springs are in fairly good condition.

Is this indicative of worn teeth on the indexing cog? How do you gauge if this cog needs replacing?

Peter

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> james-<< My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct
"click"
> when I upshift. << Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing?
>
> think it's in need of new shift springs-go see a bike shop that 'qui si
parla
> Campagnolo', or send it to me and I'll OVH it.
>
>
> Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

> > james-<< My Record rear shifter has recently stopped making a distinct
> "click"
> > when I upshift. << Or does it mean that there is an internal component in need of replacing?

> "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > think it's in need of new shift springs-go see a bike shop that 'qui si
> parla
> > Campagnolo', or send it to me and I'll OVH it.

"Peter Vesel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am having problems with gear changing as well.Most of the gears in the middle of the cassette
> are very vague. The tend to jump up and down cogs instead of staying in one gear.
>
> I replaced the shift springs about 10,000 km ago and when I recently disassembled the levers the
> springs are in fairly good condition.
>
> Is this indicative of worn teeth on the indexing cog? How do you gauge if this cog needs
> replacing?

The shift cam, that big sintered cog, is about $30. They wear so very slowly that I have never
replaced one for wear, only when a rider changes from 9 to ten or other format change.

Since you feel the springs are still crisp, I would look at cable problems before anything else.
That's the most common source of sloppy shifting.Or double check the springs (with a lens) to see
that they are still round in cross section where they abrade on the cam.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

A Muzi wrote:

>> What does a "hook bend probing tool" look like? Any pics on the web? One of these might help
>> me........
>>
>> I'm sure I didn't get the final coil spring done right on mine. Really baffles me, because I
>> seemingly wound it up as much as the mechanism could cope with (downshifting all the way first),
>> but the action is not as spring-loaded as when new. Shifting works but it's not as
>> nice'n'quick'n'easy as I would like.
>
>
> Here's Snap-On's assortment of picks and probes along with a bicycle mechanic's "pointy spoke"
> tool: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/POINTY.JPG

Thanks very much. I will make/get a suitable instrument of torture like one of those!

Not sure it will actually help though, because I believe I did manage to get the spring end in the
correct position with screwdriver & long-nose plyers, but it's still not right. I have wound it up
as much as reasonably possible - if I wind it round another turn, the shifter won't shift to all 9
positions (and I have downshifted all the way down before doing the spring). I can only assume there
must be something wrong with the spring itself or some part in the "guts", or my brain is incapable
of working it out (despite reading several different sets of instructions).

Anyway, for the time being, I'm coping alright with the not-very-spring-loaded shifters and won't be
attempting the job again for another few weeks/months. I've had enough now! One upside is that I
don't get too much over-shifting (on downshifts) - like I did with them brand new.

cheers ~PB (2001 9sp Ergos)

 

On a related note, my Record shifter (1998 model) has started popping out of lowest (biggest cog)
gear. It stays in all other gears happily, and feels otherwise fairly good. I rebuilt it perhaps a
year ago, with new G-springs and new post, as the original post broke.

Any idea of common causes for this? I'd like to have some idea of what I'd need to replace (with the
parts to hand) before I go tearing the lever apart.

Regards,

Suzy

--
---
Suzy Jackson [email protected] http://www.suzyj.net

 

Upshift all the way.

On Sun, 16 Feb 2003 20:05:03 -0000, "Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote:

>reasonably possible - if I wind it round another turn, the shifter won't shift to all 9 positions
>(and I have downshifted all the way down before doing the spring).

 

>> reasonably possible - if I wind it round another turn, the shifter won't shift to all 9 positions
>> (and I have downshifted all the way down before doing the spring).

Paul Kopit wrote:
> Upshift all the way.

Is that an alternative technique, or do you mean I'm doing it wrong? In any case, I tried it both
ways, and inbetween! ...No joy.

Are you sure for 2001 Chorus Ergos? (By "downshifting", I mean: finger lever, changing to
larger cogs)

I believe downshifting on older Ergos winds up the spring, but Campag reversed the design for the
new ones to make downshifting more spring loaded.

~PB

 

You want to push the paddle to the largest cogs.

On Mon, 17 Feb 2003 02:28:58 -0000, "Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote:

>Are you sure for 2001 Chorus Ergos? (By "downshifting", I mean: finger lever, changing to
>larger cogs)