My workshop



OP, nice set up i like the neatness that really speeds up any job, when i work with my step-dad in his shop i spend half the time looking for tool and most of the end up "Making Due" with the wrong tool. eh...

my "workshop" is the dining room and my tool are not with me, sadly.

i have a little over $3,000 in tools in my parents garage they are for automotive work but a lot of them would be usefull for a bike as well. im going to get a smalll tool box and load it up with the most usefull tools for my bike and bring it here so i have the tools i need. every change a tire with nothing but a single tiny flat head screwdriver? annoying...
 
Zerosven said:
i have a little over $3,000 in tools in my parents garage they are for automotive work but a lot of them would be usefull for a bike as well. im going to get a smalll tool box and load it up with the most usefull tools for my bike and bring it here so i have the tools i need. every change a tire with nothing but a single tiny flat head screwdriver? annoying...
thats not necessarily the case, bike tools tend to be quite specific, very specific in fact,
 
Originally Posted by Zerosven .

every change a tire with nothing but a single tiny flat head screwdriver? annoying...
Better to use no tools if no tire levers are about. A flathead can gouge the rim or scrub the inner tube completely.
 
danfoz said:
 Better to use no tools if no tire levers are about. A flathead can gouge the rim or scrub the inner tube completely.
+1. Not having proper levers makes for the perfect opportunity to learn how to and to practice removing and mounting tires without tools, which happens to be the ideal method.
 
i was carefull and got the job done without hurting the tire or tube, as to specific tools, i know lots of specialty stuff but a basic set of sockets and a rachet are the same if used on a bike or a car.
 
Originally Posted by Zerosven .

i was carefull and got the job done without hurting the tire or tube, as to specific tools, i know lots of specialty stuff but a basic set of sockets and a rachet are the same if used on a bike or a car.
Luckily most of the specialty stuff can be done without for most chores. An Allen tool, a phillips head and chain tool covers about 95%.

On a side note, does anyone know when manufacturers started the torx chaninring bolt trend, why an allen head wouldn't serve that purpose, and why the oft single torx head seemingly available on quite a few multi-tools doesn't seem to match up to the single torx fittement on my bike (i.e. the chainring bolt)?
 
"On a side note, does anyone know when manufacturers started the torx chaninring bolt trend,"

Torx fastener use was present on the Power Torque carbon cranksets. Now, they even use Tamper Proof Torx on some 11-speed applications.

"why an allen head wouldn't serve that purpose,"

Torx fasterners transmit higher torque values prior to stripping/rounding.

"and why the oft single torx head seemingly available on quite a few multi-tools doesn't seem to match up to the single torx fittement on my bike (i.e. the chainring bolt)?"

Because there is a secret shimaNO plot not to include a T25 Torx wrench in multi tools!!!

Rear derailleur is T25. Brake/shifter mounting are T25. Chainring bolts are T30. Ask yourself which two of the three are more likely to require tightening on the road.
 
I grasp the stripping mitigating strategy of the design but my Ultra Torque crank is still tightened by an Allen key. I am guessing it has a higher torque requirement than most of the other torx bolts on the bike. I do see the hidden value in styming the Allen key wielding thief, until he smarts up and visits the local hardware store.
 
Or...for the princely sum of $2.71 you can stash a jen-you-wine Eklind made in the good ol' U.S. of A. T30 in you seat bag and no one will be the wiser to either your chainring bolt paranoia or your cheapskateness: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EKLIND-Torx-Key-4RU33?gclid=CNrZh8yWjLcCFck-MgodUVwA6w&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Wrenches-_-4RU33&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=4RU33&ef_id=UYAR3gAAAIjAgAG@:20130510183407:s

Of course, if we catch you using it...we do get to make rude remarks.
 
" Ultra Torque crank is still tightened by an Allen key."

My U-T cranks are Torx fastener equipped...or do you mean you are using a Allen hex key to tighten the Torx fasteners. If so, yeah...you can get a close fit in some cases and for emergency use, why not?

I was working on my home's standby generator last fall, getting it ready for winter and the carb is held on by the tiniest male Torx head bolts I've come across. It took a trip to Vato Depot to buy a set of female Torx sockets that included one small enough to remove the fasteners.

GM disc brake calipers have used Torx-head bolts since the early 1980's.

My name is CampyBob and I'm a tool junky! If you need it...buy it! If you don't need it...buy it anyway! You soon will!
 
Your 11-speed chainring bolts (model dependent) should be anodized aluminum Torx. Mine are.

No way would I use a multi-tool on a Campy 10-speed unless my cell phone had a dead battery or I was doing RAAM as stuck in the Sonoran Desert. Besides, a rock and a screwdriver will rivet that 11-speed close enough to get Macgyver home.
 
Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB .

My U-T cranks are Torx fastener equipped...or do you mean you are using a Allen hex key to tighten the Torx fasteners. If so, yeah...you can get a close fit in some cases and for emergency use, why not?
I didn't do the install but coulda sworn that the crankarms were joined by a large Allen bolt.
 
Originally Posted by danfoz .


I didn't do the install but coulda sworn that the crankarms were joined by a large Allen bolt.
Alright I see it now:

Campagnolo%20Ultra%20Torque%2010mm%20Crank%20Bolt.jpg
 
Ah...yeah. Older Hirth joint is 10 or 12 MM hex/Allen. That size for the application will handle the torque input. I do blue Loktite mine anyways though.
 

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