Need help picking a bike

[[email protected]]

Hello,

I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.

I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a more
relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to sit
as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that can
carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.

Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?

Is there a type of saddle you prefer for long rides? Perhaps one that
distrubutes one's weight more evenly?

Is it best to find one online?

Do you prefer toe clips or the special shoes with the pedal attachment
mechanism?

Are there clubs in Northern NM that go on long rides or two-day rides?


Should I have rear shocks?

Assuming only front shocks, about what should I expect to pay?
I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me. Thanks.

Greg

 

[gds]

[email protected] wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.
>
> I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a
more
> relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to
sit
> as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that
can
> carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.
>
> Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?



Why a mountain bike for touring? Most folks would opt for a road bike
for long tours.
>
> Is there a type of saddle you prefer for long rides? Perhaps one
that
> distrubutes one's weight more evenly?

One that YOU find comfortable. There are many good saddles
>
> Is it best to find one online?

I'd say from the questions you are asking that you would do well to go
to a LBS and get their advise.
>
> Do you prefer toe clips or the special shoes with the pedal
attachment
> mechanism?

Clipless for sure!
>
> Are there clubs in Northern NM that go on long rides or two-day
rides?
Sure do a serach
>
>
> Should I have rear shocks?
No
>
> Assuming only front shocks, about what should I expect to pay?
> I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me.

Anywhere from $600 to $5000 depending on what you like.
Thanks.
>
> Greg

 

[gds]

[email protected] wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.
>
> I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a
more
> relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to
sit
> as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that
can
> carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.
>
> Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?



Why a mountain bike for touring? Most folks would opt for a road bike
for long tours.
>
> Is there a type of saddle you prefer for long rides? Perhaps one
that
> distrubutes one's weight more evenly?

One that YOU find comfortable. There are many good saddles
>
> Is it best to find one online?

I'd say from the questions you are asking that you would do well to go
to a LBS and get their advise.
>
> Do you prefer toe clips or the special shoes with the pedal
attachment
> mechanism?

Clipless for sure!
>
> Are there clubs in Northern NM that go on long rides or two-day
rides?
Sure do a serach
>
>
> Should I have rear shocks?
No
>
> Assuming only front shocks, about what should I expect to pay?
> I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me.

Anywhere from $600 to $5000 depending on what you like.
Thanks.
>
> Greg

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky/Chain Reaction Bicycles]

> I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.
>
> I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a more
> relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to sit
> as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that can
> carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.
>
> Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?
>
> Is there a type of saddle you prefer for long rides? Perhaps one that
> distrubutes one's weight more evenly?
>
> Is it best to find one online?
>
> Do you prefer toe clips or the special shoes with the pedal attachment
> mechanism?
>
> Are there clubs in Northern NM that go on long rides or two-day rides?
>
>
> Should I have rear shocks?
>
> Assuming only front shocks, about what should I expect to pay?
> I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me. Thanks.
>
> Greg

Greg: You pose a lot of good questions, but seriously, the first item on
your agenda should be to find a decent shop and see what looks like it might
suit your interests. They should also be aware of what makes sense for the
local opportunities to ride in your area.

You might want to post where you live; that way others might be able to help
regarding local shops & clubs. It appears that you might live in Northern
NM, but that's a pretty big place! Close to Colorado?

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
IMBA, BikesBelong, NBDA member

 

[Actually34]

Everyone has his and her own preferences, but for long-distance touring (as
well as shorter commutes), I prefer dropped handlebars that give me various
hand positions, and allow a lower riding position when heading into the wind.

As for saddles, the most comfortable one I ever sat on was a Brooks, the
antithesis of the padded saddle that evenly distributes weight.

I'm partial to toe clips, but you'll get somewhat more efficiency going
clipless. As for shocks, they're probably a waste of money unless you're
planning on rugged off-road riding.

Mainly, make sure the bike you buy will take racks, fenders and other add-ons.

I'm partial to the Trek 520, but there are lots of good touring bikes out
there.

 

[[email protected]]

[email protected] wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.
>
> I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a
more
> relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to
sit
> as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that
can
> carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.
>
> Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?

Touring bicycles do not have shocks.

There are certain attributes that good touring bicycles possess, and
very few of these types of bicycles are still available.

Touring bikes will have a full complement of braze-ons for racks (front
and rear), bottles (three), and a pump.

Touring bicycles have Chro-Moly steel frames for durability (aluminum
frames won't stand up to the rigors of fully loaded touring).

Most touring bicycles still use threaded headsets, because height
adjustability is important, though you can always use an extender on a
threadless headset.

Touring bicycles will usually have 36 or 40 spoke rear wheels
(sometimes even 48 spoke wheels), to stand up to the heavier loads
placed on them.

You will likely have a hard time finding a shop that knows anything
about touring.

The ideal touring bicycle is the Koga-Miyate Randonneur,
"http://www.kogausa.com/Randonneurspecs.htm" but it is quite pricey, at
$2200.

Look at the Comotion Americano, but it's around $2700.

For less than $1000, there are still some choices:

Look at the Fuji-Touring, but it doesn't have the type of handlebars
you prefer, see: "http://www.fujibikes.com/2005/bikes.asp?id=22", and
it lacks the front rack braze-ons; this is more reasonable at $800 or
so.

Look at the Bianchi Volpe, though this lacks the front rack braze-ons,
and doesn't have the type of handlebars you prefer,
"http://www.bianchiusa.com/570.html"

Look at the Windsor Tourist,
"http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm"
I know, many people will cringe at the the thought, but this bicycle,
at least on paper, does look like an excellent value.

Trek has the 520, but this lack the front rack braze-ons, and the
threadless headset precludes a comfortable riding position, though this
is correctable. It also doesn't have the type of bars you want.

 

[biker bob]

You might check out the Specialized Globe. $800 and it has everything.
Not sure how serious it's going to be for touring, or if it is more
sutable for commuting. Good luck!
Bob

 

[David]

<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?
>
> Touring bicycles do not have shocks.
>
In general that's true.

Mine came with a Rock Shox Ruby Metro.

If I were choosing, I probably would have selected a rigid fork, but considering that I can't
see potholes at night (maybe with my helmet-mounted Jet instead of my bar-mounted
Nighthawk I could), I've come to *really* appreciate the small amount of suspension.
Climbing, it only bobs when standing, and dialing up the preload stops it.

Anyway I'm with the others who say don't limit yourself on hand positions/postures on the
touring bike. Drop bars are fine, but there are other choices too--there are bolt on grips sort
of like brake hoods I've seen people attach to straight or mustache bars (I forget), and of
course various bar-end-like things. Probably safest to go with drops unless you have a really
good idea what else will work for you. Or consult with experts like Rivendell--I think they're
the ones who set up the most interesting alternatives I've seen.

 

[Earl Bollinger]

Tough question to answer.
What's your budget, how much are you willing to spend?
How much do you ride now? How many miles a week do you ride?
If you are out of shape, you'll need to start building up to get into shape.
I would suggest you go and try and test ride a number of bikes in your area
and see which ones you like the most.
Make a list of which ones you rode and whether they felt good et cetera.
That'll narrow down the choices more.
That super whiz bang monster deluxe model may not really be what you need or
want.


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I will buy a bike soon, and I'd like some advice on what to get.
>
> I intend to use it for touring. Hence, I would like it to have a more
> relaxed geometry, riser bars, and a comfortable saddle. I want to sit
> as upright as one can on a mountain bike, and I also want bike that can
> carry camping equipment, for treks lasting more than one day.
>
> Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?
>
> Is there a type of saddle you prefer for long rides? Perhaps one that
> distrubutes one's weight more evenly?
>
> Is it best to find one online?
>
> Do you prefer toe clips or the special shoes with the pedal attachment
> mechanism?
>
> Are there clubs in Northern NM that go on long rides or two-day rides?
>
>
> Should I have rear shocks?
>
> Assuming only front shocks, about what should I expect to pay?
> I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me. Thanks.
>
> Greg
>

 

[Sandor]

In article <[email protected]>,
David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] wrote:
>> > Does anyone have an idea on what bike would be ideal for this?
>>
>> Touring bicycles do not have shocks.
>>
>In general that's true.
>
>Mine came with a Rock Shox Ruby Metro.
>
>If I were choosing, I probably would have selected a rigid fork, but considering that I can't
>see potholes at night (maybe with my helmet-mounted Jet instead of my bar-mounted
>Nighthawk I could), I've come to *really* appreciate the small amount of suspension.
>Climbing, it only bobs when standing, and dialing up the preload stops it.
>
>Anyway I'm with the others who say don't limit yourself on hand positions/postures on the
>touring bike. Drop bars are fine, but there are other choices too--there are bolt on grips sort
>of like brake hoods I've seen people attach to straight or mustache bars (I forget), and of
>course various bar-end-like things. Probably safest to go with drops unless you have a really
>good idea what else will work for you. Or consult with experts like Rivendell--I think they're
>the ones who set up the most interesting alternatives I've seen.

Only problem with getting a touring bike with straight bars and
a 'more upright' riding position is that once your riding
improves and you learn more about your riding position, you'll
naturally want to get lower, more aerodynamic, and a bit more
'stretched out' on the bike. With an 'upright' style bike, and
straight bar', you may find that now, what seemed a long reach
when you were sitting upright is now about 5" too short for a
riding position involving 'stretching out', getting more aero,
and leaning forwards, and getting more on the 'rivet', as it
were.

With standard drop bars, you can assume the 'upright' position
by using a grip on the flat part of the bar, near the stem if
you like, but to get the more 'stretched out' position, you
have the hoods, and this is about just right for that lower
more aero position. Finally if you have a tough hill, you may
even want to get down lower, or 'on the drops'.

With a flat bar bike you will have difficulty during this
transition phase in your riding 'evolution'.

For a while you can use a 'thumbless' grip, letting your body
and arms stretch out a little - but once you get used to this,
you'll feel very cramped using a fully wrapped 'thumbed grip'.
You'll probably also feel more pain in your forearms due to
resisting the 'stretching out' that you want now. Bar ends and
other gadgets can help, but in the long run they're a temporary
solution, in my opinion. Certainly not everyone will 'evolve'
in their riding, and riding with the more 'upright' position
will remain fine - however, in my opinion, your speed will be
limited, as well as your climbing ability. Why restrict those
things by incorrect choice of your machine?

YMMV.

Just a thought on a cold evening, awaiting the morning
snowflurries. ;-)

-Sledge

 

[Pat Lamb]

[email protected] wrote:
> Look at the Fuji-Touring, but it doesn't have the type of handlebars
> you prefer, see: "http://www.fujibikes.com/2005/bikes.asp?id=22", and
> it lacks the front rack braze-ons; this is more reasonable at $800 or
> so.

Minor correction, the page you point to says the Fuji does have
braze-ons on the fork. My (slightly older) Fuji tourer does have them.

Pat

 

[[email protected]]

Earl Bollinger wrote:
> Tough question to answer.
> What's your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Thanks to you and all others who responded to my note.

I can spend about $500.

I think I misused the word "touring." I've been out of biking for a
while, so I'm a little light on the lingo.

Essentially, I want to go offroad, either on trails in the woods, or
out in the desert. I won't do any steep terrain or downhill biking at
ski areas.

I also want a bike that can be loaded with overnight gear, and I'm
actually not sure that what I exists. It would take a tough bike to
carry 80 lbs of gear and still navigate bumpy terrain. If there is no
such bike, then I'll just get a regular mountain bike, because I still
want to bike offroad.

In my original post, I wrote that I want a more upright position. From
the responses, I take you all to imply that as I get more experienced,
I'll want a less upright position, and I should therefore get bars that
I can adjust. Is this right? And these are called "drops?"

I think this is a good point. When I was riding alot, my old road bike
was comfortable. But when I went for a year or so with no riding and
then rode it again, I felt hunched over.

> How much do you ride now? How many miles a week do you ride?

I don't ride at all. Long ago, I had a road bike I used for 20-mile
rides, but it's been a while.

Is there a saddle called the "Super Saddle?"

Also, someone asked me what part of the country I'm in. I live in
Albuquerque, which is why I want to go offroad. This is northern NM,
about four hours from the Colorado border, or 8 hours from Denver.
There are a lot of trails out here, both in the mountains and the high
desert. It seems the ideal place for going offroad.

Someone also suggested I talk to LBS. What is that? Is it a bike
store?

I thank you all again for taking the time to respond. This will really
help me start off the right way.

Greg

 

[[email protected]]

Sorry, thanks for pointing that out. I was so busy looking for them in
the picture that I didn't notice the text to the left.

The Fuji Tour is probably the original poster's best bet for a bicycle
from a bike shop. He can replace the handlebars if necessary.

 

[[email protected]]

[email protected] wrote:
> Earl Bollinger wrote:
> > Tough question to answer.
> > What's your budget, how much are you willing to spend?
>
> Thanks to you and all others who responded to my note.
>
> I can spend about $500.
>
> I think I misused the word "touring." I've been out of biking for a
> while, so I'm a little light on the lingo.
>
> Essentially, I want to go offroad, either on trails in the woods, or
> out in the desert. I won't do any steep terrain or downhill biking
at
> ski areas.
>
> I also want a bike that can be loaded with overnight gear, and I'm
> actually not sure that what I exists.

Well if you get a proper mountain bike, you can certainly put some
smoother tires on it and use it for touring.

Look at the 2004 Marin Bear Valley. This sells for around $500.

"http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4038672P3589020-Mountain-Bikes-Catalog/Marin-2004-Mountain-Bikes/Marin-Bear-Valley-2004.aspx"

The 2005 is around $600.

This is probably the best deal in a chromolloy steel mountain bike with
front suspension. Attaching a rear rack may require using clamps since
it likely has no braze-ons.

You can buy a cheaper mountain bike if you go to an aluminum frame, but
for touring you really will be more comfortable on a steel frame.

 

[Earl Bollinger]

Well they (the biking world in general) has obfuscated the whole issue with
Hybrids and Comfort bikes too).
A Hybrid is a mountain bike with road bike features, different models have
more or less features. Now some hybrids
appear to be a road bike with some mountain bike features too. The Comfort
bikes are basically a more comfortable version of a Hybrid.
Hybrids generally have gearing that comes closer to road bike gear ratios.
Mountain bikes work well for offroad riding, but they tend to be geared
lower than bikes intended for riding on roads. so you run out of gears quick
on roads or paved bike trails (those easy long slightly downhill paved
sections). For putting on racks and paniers and such for long runs,
traveling, and camping and such, look to see if the bike has mounting points
for these items. Most dual suspension bikes don't have these so you are
limited to using a seat tube mounted rack. Most of the bikes that use a
suspension seat post have mounting points for rear racks and such.
It looks like one of the comfort or hybrid bikes might be more to your
liking as a good starting point. Get one with an adjustable stem and you can
move the handlebars down and out or in as you get better at it.


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>> Earl Bollinger wrote:
>> > Tough question to answer.
>> > What's your budget, how much are you willing to spend?
>>
>> Thanks to you and all others who responded to my note.
>>
>> I can spend about $500.
>>
>> I think I misused the word "touring." I've been out of biking for a
>> while, so I'm a little light on the lingo.
>>
>> Essentially, I want to go offroad, either on trails in the woods, or
>> out in the desert. I won't do any steep terrain or downhill biking
> at
>> ski areas.
>>
>> I also want a bike that can be loaded with overnight gear, and I'm
>> actually not sure that what I exists.
>
> Well if you get a proper mountain bike, you can certainly put some
> smoother tires on it and use it for touring.
>
> Look at the 2004 Marin Bear Valley. This sells for around $500.
>
> "http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4038672P3589020-Mountain-Bikes-Catalog/Marin-2004-Mountain-Bikes/Marin-Bear-Valley-2004.aspx"
>
> The 2005 is around $600.
>
> This is probably the best deal in a chromolloy steel mountain bike with
> front suspension. Attaching a rear rack may require using clamps since
> it likely has no braze-ons.
>
> You can buy a cheaper mountain bike if you go to an aluminum frame, but
> for touring you really will be more comfortable on a steel frame.
>

 

[Bill Baka]

Earl Bollinger wrote:
> Well they (the biking world in general) has obfuscated the whole issue with
> Hybrids and Comfort bikes too).
> A Hybrid is a mountain bike with road bike features, different models have
> more or less features. Now some hybrids
> appear to be a road bike with some mountain bike features too. The Comfort
> bikes are basically a more comfortable version of a Hybrid.
> Hybrids generally have gearing that comes closer to road bike gear ratios.
> Mountain bikes work well for offroad riding, but they tend to be geared
> lower than bikes intended for riding on roads. so you run out of gears quick
> on roads or paved bike trails (those easy long slightly downhill paved
> sections). For putting on racks and paniers and such for long runs,
> traveling, and camping and such, look to see if the bike has mounting points
> for these items. Most dual suspension bikes don't have these so you are
> limited to using a seat tube mounted rack. Most of the bikes that use a
> suspension seat post have mounting points for rear racks and such.
> It looks like one of the comfort or hybrid bikes might be more to your
> liking as a good starting point. Get one with an adjustable stem and you can
> move the handlebars down and out or in as you get better at it.
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>Earl Bollinger wrote:
>>>
>>>>Tough question to answer.
>>>>What's your budget, how much are you willing to spend?
>>>
>>>Thanks to you and all others who responded to my note.
>>>
>>>I can spend about $500.
>>>
>>>I think I misused the word "touring." I've been out of biking for a
>>>while, so I'm a little light on the lingo.
>>>
>>>Essentially, I want to go offroad, either on trails in the woods, or
>>>out in the desert. I won't do any steep terrain or downhill biking
>>
>>at
>>
>>>ski areas.
>>>
>>>I also want a bike that can be loaded with overnight gear, and I'm
>>>actually not sure that what I exists.
>>
>>Well if you get a proper mountain bike, you can certainly put some
>>smoother tires on it and use it for touring.
>>
>>Look at the 2004 Marin Bear Valley. This sells for around $500.
>>
>>"http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4038672P3589020-Mountain-Bikes-Catalog/Marin-2004-Mountain-Bikes/Marin-Bear-Valley-2004.aspx"
>>
>>The 2005 is around $600.
>>
>>This is probably the best deal in a chromolloy steel mountain bike with
>>front suspension. Attaching a rear rack may require using clamps since
>>it likely has no braze-ons.
>>
>>You can buy a cheaper mountain bike if you go to an aluminum frame, but
>>for touring you really will be more comfortable on a steel frame.
>>
>
>
>
I know I am going to get static for this but a mountain bike with the
road mounting stuff for carrying things and no suspension is my starting
point. Just get rid of the knobbies 26" x 2.25" and put on some semi
slick street tires 26" x 1.75 and you should have a good compromise
bike. All the suspension bikes I have seen are suitable for kids doing
BMX stunts where they actually could flatten the suspension out. If you
do that to you average Hybrid you are likely to break something (yours
or the bikes). I have nothing against the 27" touring bikes since I do
own one and it does a fair job until I get into it probably more than I
should, but a 700 tire of any type is just too skinny to so much of any
off road riding. Great for the paved road and slouching into an aero
dynamic stance but not too comfortable for a long tour unless you have
really mastered the art of sitting up and pedaling. Do you like bending
over all day or does you back go (like mine) for a little more upright
riding? It is also a lot easier to handle a downhill at speed and
possibly very bumpy with a hybrid with larger tires.
My take, not theirs, I ride a lot of trails, some where walking is a
serious job and I have to carry the bike. It depends on how serious you
are about maybe taking equipment to spend the night too, so you will
want to put some thought into it.
Best of Luck, (and advice I hope),
Bill Baka

 

[Mike Kruger]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Essentially, I want to go offroad, either on trails in the
woods, or
> out in the desert. I won't do any steep terrain or downhill
biking at
> ski areas.
>
> I also want a bike that can be loaded with overnight gear,
and I'm
> actually not sure that what I exists. It would take a tough
bike to
> carry 80 lbs of gear and still navigate bumpy terrain. If
there is no
> such bike, then I'll just get a regular mountain bike,
because I still
> want to bike offroad.
>
You want a mountain bike, with racks.
This gets hard if you get a mountain bike with suspension, but
not impossible.
80 lb is a lot, though. You might peruse some of the packing /
poundage lists at a site like
www.crazyguyonabike.com , or ask for lists/ poundage on the
"phred" touring list.

> In my original post, I wrote that I want a more upright
position. From
> the responses, I take you all to imply that as I get more
experienced,
> I'll want a less upright position, and I should therefore
get bars that
> I can adjust. Is this right? And these are called "drops?"
>
I'm not sure drops will work well on a mountain bike.
You can get more hand positions, which is another advantage of
drops, by getting bar ends.

> Also, someone asked me what part of the country I'm in. I
live in
> Albuquerque, which is why I want to go offroad. This is
northern NM,
> about four hours from the Colorado border, or 8 hours from
Denver.
> There are a lot of trails out here, both in the mountains
and the high
> desert. It seems the ideal place for going offroad.

Yeah!

> Someone also suggested I talk to LBS. What is that? Is it
a bike
> store?

LBS means "local bike shop".