need help removing broken freewheel

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Carl, May 25, 2004.

  1. Carl

    Carl Guest

    I've got myself in a real spot. I've got a wheel that has a
    Campy Record hub and a Regina freewheel. I was going to
    remove the freewheel to replace it with one that has larger
    cogs (hope I'm using the right term - I'm trying to make it
    easier to go up hill). The freewheel tool for this freewheel
    is the type that has two prongs that extend down into two
    matching slots in a ring on the front of the freewheel.
    Well, I succeeded in breaking the two prongs and the ring
    that the slots were in in the process and still haven't made
    any progress in loosening the freewheel. If you want to know
    how I broke these let me know - it's a long painful story
    that I won't inflict on everyone.

    Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get this freewheel
    off now that the normal method is out of the question. The
    only thing I can think of is to try and cut it off very
    carefully with a grinder. That seems quite risky and brutal.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance,

    Carl
     
    Tags:


  2. In article <[email protected]>,
    Carl <[email protected]> wrote:
    >I've got myself in a real spot. I've got a wheel that has a
    >Campy Record hub and a Regina freewheel. I was going to
    >remove the freewheel to replace it with one that has larger
    >cogs (hope I'm using the right term - I'm trying to make it
    >easier to go up hill). The freewheel tool for this
    >freewheel is the type that has two prongs that extend down
    >into two matching slots in a ring on the front of the
    >freewheel. Well, I succeeded in breaking the two prongs and
    >the ring that the slots were in in the process and still
    >haven't made any progress in loosening the freewheel. If
    >you want to know how I broke these let me know - it's a
    >long painful story that I won't inflict on everyone.
    >
    >Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get this
    >freewheel off now that the normal method is out of the
    >question. The only thing I can think of is to try and cut
    >it off very carefully with a grinder. That seems quite
    >risky and brutal.

    If the freewheel is already toast, then you can just take it
    completely apart and clamp the remainder of the freewheel
    body in a vise. You want to disassemble the body so all the
    teeny bits fall out and then clamp onto what's left.
    Grinding some flats sometimes helps if you can't get a good
    grip on it.

    --Paul
     
  3. [email protected] (Carl) writes:

    >I've got myself in a real spot. I've got a wheel that has a
    >Campy Record hub and a Regina freewheel. I was going to
    >remove the freewheel to replace it with one that has larger
    >cogs (hope I'm using the right term - I'm trying to make it
    >easier to go up hill). The freewheel tool for this
    >freewheel is the type that has two prongs that extend down
    >into two matching slots in a ring on the front of the
    >freewheel. Well, I succeeded in breaking the two prongs and
    >the ring that the slots were in in the process and still
    >haven't made any progress in loosening the freewheel. If
    >you want to know how I broke these let me know - it's a
    >long painful story that I won't inflict on everyone.

    The next time I hope you'll use Sheldon's excellent advice
    to use the hub QR's to hold the freewheel tool onto the
    freewheel when you try to remove it.

    There are at least 3 ways to get the freewheel off now.

    1. Buy a chain whip and use it on the largest (outside)
    cog. better yet, take the freewheel to a shop and this
    is probably the first thing they will try.

    2. Use a freewheel vice.

    3. (This is one i've actually done, I think) - get 2 tall
    medium sized screw drivers, clamp them into a vice
    vertically, and then lay the wheel horizontally onto the
    vice, and find a pair of holes in the backside of the
    freewheel body where you can insert the screwdriver tips
    firmly. Drivers must be at least 150 mm long, and
    smaller tips can pass through campy large-flange holes
    and into the freewheel (this is what I actually did when
    I was a teen.) No need to thread through the hub holes
    if you have small-flange hubs and a decent to wide ratio
    freewheel.

    now, gently rotate the rim in the vice by a small
    amount, maybe an inch or two. The screwdrivers will hold
    the freewheel in place from the backside, and the spokes
    will twist the hub away from the freewheel.

    voila !

    - Don "Love my Vise" Gillies San Diego, CA
     
  4. Jeff Wills

    Jeff Wills Guest

    [email protected] (Paul Southworth) wrote
    in message news:<%[email protected]
    read.news.verio.net>... <snip>
    >
    > If the freewheel is already toast, then you can just take
    > it completely apart and clamp the remainder of the
    > freewheel body in a vise. You want to disassemble the body
    > so all the teeny bits fall out and then clamp onto what's
    > left. Grinding some flats sometimes helps if you can't get
    > a good grip on it.
    >
    > --Paul

    Old-school bike mechanics (like me) used to do this- not all
    the time, but those old Regina freewheels were awful easy to
    strip out. Even the Bicycle Research tool would take the
    lugs off of the freewheel body occasionally.

    As Paul says, disassembling the freewheel with a punch as
    described by Sheldon:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#disassembly .
    You should be able to grip the inner freewheel body with a
    large bench vise or pipe wrench and loosen it. Dispose of
    the old freewheel artistically.

    Jeff
     
  5. Jim Adney

    Jim Adney Guest

    On 25 May 2004 18:19:27 -0700 [email protected] (Donald Gillies)
    wrote:

    >There are at least 3 ways to get the freewheel off now.
    >
    >1. Buy a chain whip and use it on the largest (outside)
    > cog. better yet, take the freewheel to a shop and this
    > is probably the first thing they will try.
    >
    >2. Use a freewheel vice.
    >
    >3. (This is one i've actually done, I think) - get 2 tall
    > medium sized screw drivers, clamp them into a vice
    > vertically, and then lay the wheel horizontally onto
    > the vice, and find a pair of holes in the backside of
    > the freewheel body where you can insert the screwdriver
    > tips firmly. Drivers must be at least 150 mm long, and
    > smaller tips can pass through campy large-flange holes
    > and into the freewheel (this is what I actually did
    > when I was a teen.) No need to thread through the hub
    > holes if you have small-flange hubs and a decent to
    > wide ratio freewheel.
    >
    > now, gently rotate the rim in the vice by a small
    > amount, maybe an inch or two. The screwdrivers will
    > hold the freewheel in place from the backside, and the
    > spokes will twist the hub away from the freewheel.

    I've been trying to understand these suggestions, but I
    don't think any of them actually work. The freewheel will
    "freewheel" in each case.

    If you've misused the freewheel tool such that you've ruined
    the drive slots, then your only other option is to
    disassemble the freewheel and clamp directly on the inner
    body. Cyclo even made a special plate for this, years ago.
    The plate has drive dogs which will slip into the pawl
    spaces in the inner body. But the cogs, lockring, outer
    body, pawls, springs and bearings all need to be removed
    first. Fortunately this is easier than it may sound.

    -
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim Adney [email protected] Madison, WI 53711 USA
    -----------------------------------------------
     
  6. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    Carl wrote:

    > I've got myself in a real spot. I've got a wheel that has
    > a Campy Record hub and a Regina freewheel. I was going to
    > remove the freewheel to replace it with one that has
    > larger cogs (hope I'm using the right term - I'm trying to
    > make it easier to go up hill). The freewheel tool for this
    > freewheel is the type that has two prongs that extend down
    > into two matching slots in a ring on the front of the
    > freewheel. Well, I succeeded in breaking the two prongs
    > and the ring that the slots were in in the process and
    > still haven't made any progress in loosening the
    > freewheel. If you want to know how I broke these let me
    > know - it's a long painful story that I won't inflict on
    > everyone.
    >
    > Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get this
    > freewheel off now that the normal method is out of the
    > question. The only thing I can think of is to try and cut
    > it off very carefully with a grinder. That seems quite
    > risky and brutal.

    First, see if you can remove it by properly securing the
    tool in the stumps, fastened tightly with a skewer. MOunt
    the tool in a vise and rock it so the tool's pegs mate into
    the slots as well as possible. Retighten the skewer.

    If you can get a purchase that way ( and that's how you're
    supposed to use that tool) then give the wheel a spin. If
    the freewheel moves, unscrew the skewer right away so you
    don't snap it as the freewheel lifts.

    Failing that, several methods to destroy the freewheel can
    be used. One way is to slit the cover plate with a disc
    grinder , knock that off, drop the outer half of the body in
    the trash and grab the inner body itself in a vise. Unscrew
    the wheel. That is the fastest way once you've given up.

    The Schwinn shop manual suggests removing the axle and using
    a 3/4"~1" EZ-Out in the body. Yikes.
    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
    April, 1971
     
  7. cdgrove-<< Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get
    this freewheel off now that the normal method is out of the
    question. The only thing I can think of is to try and cut it
    off very carefully with a grinder. That seems quite risky
    and brutal. >><BR><BR>

    Take it apart, all but the final portion that is
    attached to the hub and use a dremel disc cutter to cut
    it off in sections.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
    costruite eccezionalmente bene"
     
  8. Jobst Brandt

    Jobst Brandt Guest

    Carl Fogel writes:

    > Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get this
    > freewheel off now that the normal method is out of the
    > question. The only thing I can think of is to try and cut
    > it off very carefully with a grinder. That seems quite
    > risky and brutal.

    By all means don't do that, you will only damage the hub
    threads when the FW core is near separation. Take the FW
    apart by using a pointed punch to drive the cone (the plate
    with two holes and embossed text) counter-clockwise (it is a
    left hand thread) to unscrew it. A pile of
    1/8" bearing balls will come out as you lift the sprocket
    shell off.

    Now you can remove the core using a pipe wrench. This does
    not cause serious damage. I have reused such cores after
    replacing broken spokes.

    Jobst Brandt [email protected]
     
  9. There has been a LOT of bad advice on this thread.

    Getting close to correct, a usually reliable source wrote:
    >
    > By all means don't do that, you will only damage the hub
    > threads when the FW core is near separation.

    Keerect.

    > Take the FW apart by using a pointed punch to drive the
    > cone (the plate with two holes and embossed text) counter-
    > clockwise (it is a left hand thread) to unscrew it.

    He meant to say "clockwise."

    See also: http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels

    Sheldon "Deasil, Not Widdershins" Brown +---------------------------------------------------------
    +
    | It is good to learn from your mistakes; | It is better
    | to learn from the mistakes of others. |
    +---------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com
    http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  10. carlfogel

    carlfogel Guest

    On Wed, 26 May 2004 18:26:33 GMT,
    [email protected] wrote:

    >Carl Fogel writes:
    >
    >> Bottom line is, I can't figure out how to get this
    >> freewheel off now that the normal method is out of the
    >> question. The only thing I can think of is to try and cut
    >> it off very carefully with a grinder. That seems quite
    >> risky and brutal.
    >
    >By all means don't do that, you will only damage the hub
    >threads when the FW core is near separation. Take the FW
    >apart by using a pointed punch to drive the cone (the plate
    >with two holes and embossed text) counter-clockwise (it is
    >a left hand thread) to unscrew it. A pile of
    >1/8" bearing balls will come out as you lift the sprocket
    > shell off.
    >
    >Now you can remove the core using a pipe wrench. This does
    >not cause serious damage. I have reused such cores after
    >replacing broken spokes.
    >
    >Jobst Brandt [email protected]

    Dear Jobst,

    Alas, this Carl is not me, but a real person, with a real
    bicycle problem, who will appreciate your real solution.

    I'm just a pack of eight basset hounds nosing at the
    keyboard in hopes of producing the works of William
    Shaksper.

    Christopher Marlen, Marley, Marlo, Marlow, Marlowe, Merling,
    Merlin, and Morley.
     
  11. Jim Adney <[email protected]> writes:

    >I've been trying to understand these suggestions, but I
    >don't think any of them actually work. The freewheel will
    >"freewheel" in each case.

    Gosh, I think that you are indeed correct. Next time, I'll
    try to do a better job of recollecting my practices from 30
    years ago !!

    - Don Gillies
     
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