Need some opinions on the bike I am getting

Discussion in 'Mountain Bikes' started by AndiG, Dec 9, 2009.

  1. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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  2. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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    35 views and no help?
     
  3. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    In your first post, you indicated that you were "Getting a new bike today" ... pretty much making it sound as though it were a done deal for which you were/are looking for approval.

    The MAIN thing you need to know is that unless you are 6'0" (or, taller) then the 20" frame is too large ... particularly, for off road riding.

    It is probably not a bad bike for the price -- but, considering I have wheels that cost MORE than £199 & the Marzocchi fork on my bike retailed for more than £199, as long as you realize that it isn't the top-of-the-line better-than-your-mate's bike then depending on how you plan to use it, it could suit you well ... or, not.

    FYI. According to the linked information, the frame & fork can be retrofitted with disc brake calipers. Putting disc brakes on will also require a new set of wheels OR relacing your current rims on some "disc" hubs.
     
  4. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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    My mistake should have worded it better, my other half has already ordered it from halfords. I am 5'10 you think they would take the bike back and replace it with the 18" one?
     
  5. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    I don't know Halford's "return policy" but I would think that since you are getting it unassembled that you could simply exchange the one crate for another ...

    If you are going to use the bike for commuting/etc., then the size is less critical ... and, a 20" may actually be better as long as the top tube isn't longer than 60cm AND you don't ever plan to install drop bars (installing drop bars is ALWAYS a consideration for me!) ... well, that's MY way of saying that I've considered picking up a 20", 90s vintage MTB frame (I'm 5'9") to build up for urban use.

    If you are going to use it off road on anything more engaging than a dirt-or-gravel road, then you may want to consider a 16" frame ... but, maybe not BECAUSE frame sizing on a MTB is really an area that seems to be a to-each-his-own based on terrain, skill level AND personal preference.
     
  6. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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    I use it for road cycling mainly (Cant afford a proper road bike). Already tested it and it appears fine, will probably need to move the saddle forward slightly. I am a bit of an amateur but what are drop down bars?
     
  7. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    "Drop bars" are just another name used for ROAD bars ...

    Since I (apparently) have little-or-no respect for convention, I am more than willing to see what will work that is contrary to conventional wisdom ... and, in one case, I converted an "extra" hardtail frame (16" ... 56cm virtual top tube) I have to a road bike with 700c wheels (see attachment). Installing a ROAD fork changed the head tube angle to approximately a more-typical 73º angle. The calipers are Tektro long reach. The particular crankset is an ISIS-type mounted on a 118mm BB to allow the chainrings to clear the chainstays.
     
  8. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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    Thanks for the tips, I have adjusted the saddle now and its perfect, the top bar isnt longer than 60 cm's so I should be fine.
     
  9. jonny jon

    jonny jon New Member

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    your wanting a new bike which is cool, but think what are you mostly going to use it for .off road riding ,getting to work ,to the train station and leaving it all day sitting .
    I always put comfort first,this begin to sit on the right gears and mud gards so I dont have to spend all weekend trying to get road or mud grim out of clothes .when I was working in a bike shop (action bikes,uk) I was in the workshop and the sales guy didnt turn up ,the boss asked me to serve ...
    Two girls looking for cheap bikes , just want to do something on the weekend together.I sold them each a cross mountain road bike and rack on the back ,and convinced them on the painners ..they chose the cheapest which I said they wont last long and showed them why (stiching and atachements )and explained ..get the train out of london to dover to osend (think it was 36quid return and stay in a little b&b ,its a great weekends fun )
    .....They went off happy and didnt see them for 2 months and I was back in the workshop where I belonged , they came in with the biggest smiles and asked to see me .....told me they ventured out and were hooked and had come to buy good panniers and wanted me to help (which the sales guy felt put out )
    but everone was happy and the last mail I had they went from london to maracoon those bikes !
    So what I am saying ....
    important is comfort,good gearing and brakes and weight .maybe what is offered is good to get started ,but maybe if you chose what you want ,you will be happier in the long ride .
    frame size ...girls frames (built for a female body)but harder to resale ...they say
    shocks ...dont need them ,unless they are good ones and you go of road alot!
    gears...18,21,24,etc..keep it easy on yourself .usually I would say so long as the front chain wheel is 22/32/42 its easy to up grad from their if you want .
    wheels...try for s/s spoked,eyelet rims is better or not is ok
    and lastly shifters...these do a thousand on your fingers .I prefure thumbs ..
    grip shift is ok and combo when you fall ! hmmm get the card ready
    that it , long blow from ...jonny jon
     
  10. jonny jon

    jonny jon New Member

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    bikes are the future , so make sure your happy with what you build !
    thats it , photo looked good dude
     
  11. AndiG

    AndiG New Member

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    The shifters are SRAM X4 dual lever, the frame is a little longer than I am used to but, with anything new it takes time to dial in what you like ie saddle height and position, still working on the right height... Did 20km's yesterday with the saddle a little to low and now my knees hurt. That is 1 thing I have trouble with is the height, can never seem to get it right.
     
  12. jonny jon

    jonny jon New Member

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    hey dude
    you could put a peice of electrical tape around the seat post just above the insert of the frame,if it dosent have markings on it and move it up 1 - 1.5 cm
    your leg should have just a little bend in it at the bottom of the stroke .
    Once you have the right height ,mark it with a small drill hole or a good line scratched into the post ,so when you remove the post or somebody else uses your bike ...you can reset your best position
    remember you think how you ride with your feet on the pedels ( the balls of your feet or the centre )
     
  13. bigpedaler

    bigpedaler New Member

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    As far as the saddle height goes, stand next to the bike, and see how close your 'hip pointer' (front of the hip joint) is to the top of the saddle. It's a good starting point.

    The absolute best way I know to adjust the saddle height is by the 'heel' method; comfortably on the saddle, put your heel on the fully lowered pedal. Your leg should be straight. (That way, when you pedal with the ball of your foot, you have the correct bend in your knee.)
     
  14. wilwhirvim

    wilwhirvim New Member

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    Thanks for shaing: They went off happy and didnt see them for 2 months and I was back in the workshop where I belonged , they came in with the biggest smiles and asked to see me .....told me they ventured out and were hooked and had come to buy good panniers and wanted me to help (which the sales guy felt put out )
    but everone was happy and the last mail I had they went from london to maracoon those bikes !
     
  15. cheapkites

    cheapkites New Member

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    [lang=da]Thanks all for contributing to this thread. Lots to read in this forum but I like it.[/lang]
     
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