Need spoke lengths for ancient wheelset



I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke
lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36 hole
3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use these
spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos?

thx,

tf
 
someone wrote:

> I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke
> lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36
> hole 3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use
> these spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos?


Let's get down to basics. You didn't say what sort of spokes these
are, type and diameter(s) and how many miles they have served. That
would clarify whether to use them again or not.

As for length, lay the new rim next to the old just for comparison and
if they are close, the spoke length should work. Do not unspoke the
wheels if you plan to reuse the spokes, but rather transfer them from
the old rim to the new, one at a time, making sure to have a drop of
oil on each spoke eyelet in the new rim. Unlubricated spoke nipple
seats is what ruined spoke wrenches because it was believed that
torque arose from thread friction. This is untrue. Spoke nipples
become rounded when the spoke nipple seizes in the rim.

Aside from that, I suggest you get some new DT or Sapim 1.8-1.6mm
thick spokes after measuring the OD of the rim to get its ERD
(Effective Rim Diameter) then measuring from the OD of the rim down
to an inserted spoke nipple. Use a spoke calculating program on the
web to arrive at spoke length.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

Jobst Brandt
 
On May 18, 11:56 am, [email protected] wrote:
> someone wrote:
> > I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke
> > lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36
> > hole 3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use
> > these spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos?

>
> Let's get down to basics. You didn't say what sort of spokes these
> are, type and diameter(s) and how many miles they have served. That
> would clarify whether to use them again or not.


DT 15-16-15 (I'm 148 lbs.).
Mileage unknown, but since I had long since stopped racing by the time
I laced the originals I bet it's pretty low for a DT spoke. Most of
their lives were spent hanging in the garage, but the sides of the
rims are scored enough that I don't trust them. If they fit with a
proper amount of thread contact I'm going to re-use them. DTs have
never failed me except for a couple years ago where one rear wheel
spoke broke about one third out from the hub flange on the drive side.
I just twisted the pieces around their siblings, opened the brake and
did thirty miles home. Of course, if they begin popping I'll replace
them.

>
> As for length, lay the new rim next to the old just for comparison and
> if they are close, the spoke length should work. Do not unspoke the
> wheels if you plan to reuse the spokes, but rather transfer them from
> the old rim to the new, one at a time, making sure to have a drop of
> oil on each spoke eyelet in the new rim.


I never unlace. I'm aware of seating.

Unlubricated spoke nipple
> seats is what ruined spoke wrenches because it was believed that
> torque arose from thread friction. This is untrue. Spoke nipples
> become rounded when the spoke nipple seizes in the rim.
>
> Aside from that, I suggest you get some new DT or Sapim 1.8-1.6mm
> thick spokes after measuring the OD of the rim to get its ERD
> (Effective Rim Diameter) then measuring from the OD of the rim down
> to an inserted spoke nipple. Use a spoke calculating program on the
> web to arrive at spoke length.
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm
>
> Jobst Brandt


Thanks for the write-back. As an aside, I also have a wheel that has
butted spokes that get smaller as you move from the hub to the rim in
two distinct (to my fingers) reductions. Perhaps 14-15-16? The head is
stamped with a 'P'. I've never seen this before.