M
Mark Hickey
Guest
Raptor <[email protected]> wrote:
>CowPunk wrote:
>> Mark Hickey wrote:
>>
>>> The key is to always (always, always) start with a bike that fits.
>>> Trying to force fit the wrong bike means you'll spend all your riding
>>> time having less fun than you should.
>>
>> Mark's right.
>> A frame has a top tube length designed to obtain a certain
>> center-of-gravity.
>> When you go adjusting a saddle way back with a bent seat post you screw
>> that center-of-gravity up.
>
>That's kind of silly when you realize that people are different. I have
>several pounds of weight above my waist that many mountain bikers don't.
>By bending or straightening my arms, I can move my COG instantly, on
>most any bike.
You could say the same about pretty much any size bike for any size
rider - they could "force" a good balance going into a corner - but
most of us are happiest when the bike is balanced optimally when we're
JRA (Just Riding Along).
>Most high performance bikes are bought "small," the smallest frame that
>fits. My bike's seat tube is long enough. The top tube might actually be
>optimal for a different rider with my particular build. I've just become
>comfortable leaning forward with arms more outstretched than many riders.
Proper fit affects a lot of aspects of the bike - biomechanical
efficiency, handling, comfort, etc... we all search for the best
compromise between all of those, and your search has resulted in a
position that most of us would find somewhat uncomfortable and
inefficient, and that almost certainly results in handling quirks that
someone riding the same bike in a "normal position" wouldn't
experience. But if it works for you, go for it.
>> If you can't get your saddle back far enough with a regular post then
>> you need
>> to go and buy a larger frame with a longer top tube.
>
>Seat tube angle and length has more to do with "proper" saddle location
>than top tube length.
All seat tube angle does is sets the fore/aft range of the saddle. As
long as the combination of the frame's seat tube angle and the seat
post's offset allow you to put the saddle in the correct position
relative to the crank, the rear half of the bike "fits". Much more
important is the ability to get the "cockpit length" right without
having to resort to a too-short or too-long stem.
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame
>CowPunk wrote:
>> Mark Hickey wrote:
>>
>>> The key is to always (always, always) start with a bike that fits.
>>> Trying to force fit the wrong bike means you'll spend all your riding
>>> time having less fun than you should.
>>
>> Mark's right.
>> A frame has a top tube length designed to obtain a certain
>> center-of-gravity.
>> When you go adjusting a saddle way back with a bent seat post you screw
>> that center-of-gravity up.
>
>That's kind of silly when you realize that people are different. I have
>several pounds of weight above my waist that many mountain bikers don't.
>By bending or straightening my arms, I can move my COG instantly, on
>most any bike.
You could say the same about pretty much any size bike for any size
rider - they could "force" a good balance going into a corner - but
most of us are happiest when the bike is balanced optimally when we're
JRA (Just Riding Along).
>Most high performance bikes are bought "small," the smallest frame that
>fits. My bike's seat tube is long enough. The top tube might actually be
>optimal for a different rider with my particular build. I've just become
>comfortable leaning forward with arms more outstretched than many riders.
Proper fit affects a lot of aspects of the bike - biomechanical
efficiency, handling, comfort, etc... we all search for the best
compromise between all of those, and your search has resulted in a
position that most of us would find somewhat uncomfortable and
inefficient, and that almost certainly results in handling quirks that
someone riding the same bike in a "normal position" wouldn't
experience. But if it works for you, go for it.
>> If you can't get your saddle back far enough with a regular post then
>> you need
>> to go and buy a larger frame with a longer top tube.
>
>Seat tube angle and length has more to do with "proper" saddle location
>than top tube length.
All seat tube angle does is sets the fore/aft range of the saddle. As
long as the combination of the frame's seat tube angle and the seat
post's offset allow you to put the saddle in the correct position
relative to the crank, the rear half of the bike "fits". Much more
important is the ability to get the "cockpit length" right without
having to resort to a too-short or too-long stem.
Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame
If I want the front to slide out first, I put more weight
