New touring wheels.



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Wayne T

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As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to 700c. On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood
hub because it wont work with a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace. In the front, I was going to
keep her 20 year old Phil Wood hub since it is in great shape. I was just told that I could get a
credit of $50 for my current wheel and get a front wheel with a Dura Ace hub and Mavic Open Pro rims
just like in the back. The cost difference would be and extra $5.00. I'm told that the Dura Ace is a
lighter hub. That sounds like the best way to go but would appreciate comments pro or con. Thanks.
 
If you can afford it, stick with the Phil hub for the rear, you can get a 8-9sp Phil freehub. My
Phil touring hubs are bulletproof (freewheel), in over 20000mi of touring I've never had a
single problem with them. I've not had nearly the same track record with Shimano hubs for
regular road riding.

-pete

"Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to
700c.
> On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work
with
> a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace. In the front, I was going to keep her 20 year old Phil Wood
> hub since it is in great shape. I was just told that I could get a credit of $50 for my current
> wheel and get a front
wheel
> with a Dura Ace hub and Mavic Open Pro rims just like in the back. The
cost
> difference would be and extra $5.00. I'm told that the Dura Ace is a lighter hub. That sounds like
> the best way to go but would appreciate comments pro or con. Thanks.
 
"Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to
700c.
> On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work
with
> a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace. In the front, I was going to keep her 20 year old Phil Wood
> hub since it is in great shape. I was just told that I could get a credit of $50 for my current
> wheel and get a front
wheel
> with a Dura Ace hub and Mavic Open Pro rims just like in the back. The
cost
> difference would be and extra $5.00. I'm told that the Dura Ace is a lighter hub. That sounds like
> the best way to go but would appreciate comments pro or con. Thanks.

Dura-Ace is lighter, but will it be better for your application? What is the rear drop out spacing?
Will you really be "loaded touring" with these wheels? (Mavic Open Pro may be too light) Please
describe more of your intended use. What is your shifting requirements? (number of speeds, shifters,
deraileurs) What width tires will you be using?

For some samples and ideas on wheels for various applications look at Peter White Cycles... wheels
page at URL: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp
 
wayne-<< I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work with a cassette, so I am buying
a Dura Ace.

Rear dropout spacing on this bike?

For the money, the best touring hub is Phil...

For better sealing and if you are 135mm in the rear, an XT is a better idea..but Phil is the best
BUT if using shimano hubs, have the guy open the hubs, add a bunch of grease and adjust...like ya
should with any new hubset.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
"Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> If you can afford it, stick with the Phil hub for the rear, you can get a 8-9sp Phil freehub. My
> Phil touring hubs are bulletproof (freewheel), in over 20000mi of
touring
> I've never had a single problem with them. I've not had nearly the same track record with Shimano
> hubs for regular
road
> riding.

That is very good to know. Thanks. I will check into the Phil touring hubs to see how much more they
will cost. Makes me think that I should keep the front Phil Wood hub as well.
>
> -pete
>
> "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> > Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to
> 700c.
> > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work
> with
> > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace. In the front, I was going to
keep
> > her 20 year old Phil Wood hub since it is in great shape. I was just
told
> > that I could get a credit of $50 for my current wheel and get a front
> wheel
> > with a Dura Ace hub and Mavic Open Pro rims just like in the back. The
> cost
> > difference would be and extra $5.00. I'm told that the Dura Ace is a lighter hub. That sounds
> > like the best way to go but would appreciate comments pro or con. Thanks.
> >
>
 
"David Ornee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> > Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to
> 700c.
> > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work
> with
> > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace. In the front, I was going to
keep
> > her 20 year old Phil Wood hub since it is in great shape. I was just
told
> > that I could get a credit of $50 for my current wheel and get a front
> wheel
> > with a Dura Ace hub and Mavic Open Pro rims just like in the back. The
> cost
> > difference would be and extra $5.00. I'm told that the Dura Ace is a lighter hub. That sounds
> > like the best way to go but would appreciate comments pro or con. Thanks.
>
> Dura-Ace is lighter, but will it be better for your application? What is the rear drop out
> spacing?

Having it spread out from 125 to 135.

> Will you really be "loaded touring" with these wheels? (Mavic Open Pro
may
> be too light)

Yes, will be doing some loaded touring. My wife only weights 107. Her Mavic's will be 36 hole with
X-tra lite double butted stainless spokes. I weigh 177 but I just checked and I am getting a Mavic
520 touring rim 36 hole and regular double butted spokes.

> Please describe more of your intended use. What is your shifting requirements? (number of speeds,
> shifters, deraileurs)

Triple crank, perhaps a 44-32-22. 9 speed rear 12-34.
> What width tires will you be using?

700X32c
>
> For some samples and ideas on wheels for various applications look at
Peter
> White Cycles... wheels page at URL: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp
>
 
"Belij3" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
| >How heavy are they? How much heavier than say a Dura Ace?
|
| Chris King 250 Dura-Ace 375 (w/skewers) Phil Wood 511 (Phil is 9spd 130)

Who cares just how heavy they are? The Phil hubs are simply the most durable hub you'll find. Why
risk using less?
 
"I C S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Belij3" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> | >How heavy are they? How much heavier than say a Dura Ace?
> |
> | Chris King 250 Dura-Ace 375 (w/skewers) Phil Wood 511 (Phil is 9spd 130)
>
> Who cares just how heavy they are? The Phil hubs are simply the most durable hub you'll find. Why
> risk using less?

Maybe the FW hubs, but not the cassette hubs, from my experience.

Robin Hubert
 
Thanks. Looks like the Dura-ace is about 4 oz lighter than Phil Wood and that the Chris King is 4 oz
lighter than Dura Ace. "Belij3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >How heavy are they? How much heavier than say a Dura Ace?
>
> Chris King 250 Dura-Ace 375 (w/skewers) Phil Wood 511 (Phil is 9spd 130)
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
>
>Thanks. Looks like the Dura-ace is about 4 oz lighter than Phil Wood and that the Chris King is 4
>oz lighter than Dura Ace. "Belij3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> >How heavy are they? How much heavier than say a Dura Ace?
>>
>> Chris King 250 Dura-Ace 375 (w/skewers) Phil Wood 511 (Phil is 9spd 130)

The CK weight is minuse skewer, so add the weight of a skewer when comparing it to the DA weight.
-----------------
Alex __O _-\<,_ (_)/ (_)
 
"Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:

> As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to 700c. On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood
> hub because it wont work with a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.

Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity. It also
imposes bearing adjustments that need not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.

It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of front
wheel drive.

Chalo Colina
 
Alex Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >
> >
> >Thanks. Looks like the Dura-ace is about 4 oz lighter than Phil Wood and that the Chris King is 4
> >oz lighter than Dura Ace. "Belij3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> >How heavy are they? How much heavier than say a Dura Ace?
> >>
> >> Chris King 250 Dura-Ace 375 (w/skewers) Phil Wood 511 (Phil is 9spd 130)
>
> The CK weight is minuse skewer, so add the weight of a skewer when comparing it to the DA weight.

Agree, a more objective view of what hubs accurately weight, e.g., hubs that have been weighted
versus what mfrs list, can be found at Sheldon Brown's site here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/weights.htm#cassettehubs
 
"Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted
from
> > freewheel to cassette. Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels
to 700c.
> > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont
work with
> > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
>
> Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity. It
> also imposes bearing adjustments that need not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
>
> It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of
> front wheel drive.

Have you had bad experience with DA? Longevity is such a hard thing to judge with changing axle
widths and the forced retirement of equipment, but I have gotten good service out of DA/Ultegra hubs
and Phil hubs. With the introduction of field serviceable bearings, some of the burdens of owning
Phil hubs are now gone. Back in the day, I found that the labyrinth seal on Shimano hubs sealed much
better than the rubber wiper on the old Phil hubs -- so the Phils stopped being my first choice for
riding in the rain. I still have a pair of Phil hubs from '74, but they are on their third (or more)
set of bearings. When the bearings go this time, so go the hubs. Phil gave up his life-time warranty
and now charges to replace worn-out cartridge bearings. This policy reversal pisses me off since I
bought into the whole "life time warranty" thing. Hey, I haven't died, I just ride like I have. --
Jay Beattie.
 
"Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted from freewheel to cassette.
> > Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels to
700c.
> > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont work
with
> > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
>
> Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity. It
> also imposes bearing adjustments that need not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
>
> It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of
> front wheel drive.

Do you still think this even thought the Phil hub is 23 years old?

>
> Chalo Colina
 
"Jay Beattie" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted
> from
> > > freewheel to cassette. Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels
> to 700c.
> > > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont
> work with
> > > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
> >
> > Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity. It
> > also imposes bearing adjustments that need not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
> >
> > It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of
> > front wheel drive.
>
> Have you had bad experience with DA? Longevity is such a hard thing to judge with changing axle
> widths and the forced retirement of equipment, but I have gotten good service out of DA/Ultegra
> hubs and Phil hubs. With the introduction of field serviceable bearings, some of the burdens of
> owning Phil hubs are now gone. Back in the day, I found that the labyrinth seal on Shimano hubs
> sealed much better than the rubber wiper on the old Phil hubs -- so the Phils stopped being my
> first choice for riding in the rain.

Then you are saying that you prefer Dura Ace hubs for riding in the rain over the Phil hubs? Sounds
like you don't buy the statement that trading in a phil hubed wheel for a Dura Ace is a big mistake.
Anyone else have any feelings on this?

The Phil Wood hubs on my wife's bike are about 23 years old and seem to spin like new. However, I
wonder if I may be pushing it by sticking with them instead of replacing with the Dura Ace hub. Her
Phil Wood bottom bracket spins real well but the frame builder told me that it is dry and need
servicing, which he believes he can do. The Phil Wood bottom bracket on my bike turns rough. It is
about 25 years old.

I still have a pair of Phil hubs from '74, but they
> are on their third (or more) set of bearings. When the bearings go this time, so go the hubs. Phil
> gave up his life-time warranty and now charges to replace worn-out cartridge bearings. This policy
> reversal pisses me off since I bought into the whole "life time warranty" thing. Hey, I haven't
> died, I just ride like I have. -- Jay Beattie.
 
"Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jay Beattie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike converted
> > from
> > > > freewheel to cassette. Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels
> > to 700c.
> > > > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont
> > work with
> > > > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
> > >
> > > Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity. It
> > > also imposes bearing adjustments that need not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
> > >
> > > It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of
> > > front wheel drive.
> >
> > Have you had bad experience with DA? Longevity is such a hard thing to judge with changing axle
> > widths and the forced retirement of equipment, but I have gotten good service out of DA/Ultegra
> > hubs and Phil hubs. With the introduction of field serviceable bearings, some of the burdens of
> > owning Phil hubs are now gone. Back in the day, I found that the labyrinth seal on Shimano hubs
> > sealed much better than the rubber wiper on the old Phil hubs -- so the Phils stopped being my
> > first choice for riding in the rain.
>
> Then you are saying that you prefer Dura Ace hubs for riding in the rain over the Phil hubs?
> Sounds like you don't buy the statement that trading
in
> a phil hubed wheel for a Dura Ace is a big mistake. Anyone else have any feelings on this?
>
> The Phil Wood hubs on my wife's bike are about 23 years old and seem to
spin
> like new. However, I wonder if I may be pushing it by sticking with them instead of replacing with
> the Dura Ace hub. Her Phil Wood bottom bracket spins real well but the frame builder told me that
> it is dry and need servicing, which he believes he can do. The Phil Wood bottom bracket on
my
> bike turns rough. It is about 25 years old.

Like JB says, age means nothing to mechanical things. It's use that matters, the amount and type of
use to be specific. "I've got 500 year old hubs and they're in perfect shape" means nothing.

>
> I still have a pair of Phil hubs from '74, but they
> > are on their third (or more) set of bearings. When the bearings go this time, so go the hubs.
> > Phil gave up his life-time warranty and now charges to replace worn-out cartridge bearings. This
> > policy reversal pisses me off since I bought into the whole "life time warranty" thing. Hey, I
> > haven't died, I just ride like I have. -- Jay Beattie.
> >

Robin Hubert
 
"Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jay Beattie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike
converted
> > from
> > > > freewheel to cassette. Also, I am converting my wife's 27"
wheels
> > to 700c.
> > > > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it
wont
> > work with
> > > > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
> > >
> > > Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down
in
> > > quality and longevity. It also imposes bearing adjustments that
need
> > > not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
> > >
> > > It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea of
> > > front wheel drive.
> >
> > Have you had bad experience with DA? Longevity is such a hard thing
to
> > judge with changing axle widths and the forced retirement of
equipment,
> > but I have gotten good service out of DA/Ultegra hubs and Phil hubs. With the introduction of
> > field serviceable bearings, some of the
burdens
> > of owning Phil hubs are now gone. Back in the day, I found that the labyrinth seal on Shimano
> > hubs sealed much better than the rubber
wiper
> > on the old Phil hubs -- so the Phils stopped being my first choice
for
> > riding in the rain.
>
> Then you are saying that you prefer Dura Ace hubs for riding in the
rain
> over the Phil hubs? Sounds like you don't buy the statement that
trading in
> a phil hubed wheel for a Dura Ace is a big mistake. Anyone else have
any
> feelings on this?

I think Phil still uses the same cartridge bearings with the same wiper seals. 30 years ago, these
were way better than Campy NR, which had dust caps that were useless against water. The Phil hubs
also had stronger axles and more configurations (flange heighth, hole count, etc.) than Campy -- and
they were cheaper than Campy. With the advent of the cassette hub, however, bent axles became less
of a problem, and the seals on the Shimano hubs solved a lot of he water intrusion problems, and
Shimano hubs were inexpensive. Phil hubs are still great hubs: you do not have to adjust them; they
are beautiful and you never have to worry about destroying a bearing race or cone because you can
just pop in a new cartridge bearing. If you are a person who destroys bearing races and needs a
really strong axle, you should consider the Phil. This may explain why Bluto likes them so much (he
is a big rider). Most people, however, would be fine with Ultegra or Dura Ace hubs. As far as
trading in, I would not buy the Phil cassette hub unless I was feeling particularly rich. I would
not scew around with freewheels. I am through with freewheels. -- Jay Beattie.
 
Wayne T wrote:
>
> "David Ornee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Dura-Ace is lighter, but will it be better for your application? What is the rear drop out
> > spacing?
>
> Having it spread out from 125 to 135.

If you are going to 135 mm just forget the road hubs and buy MTB hubs since they are "ready" for 135
mm right off the shelf and have little rubber booties built in. XTR is great quality and XT or LX
are nice enough and will probably pass just fine for touring duty too.

> > Will you really be "loaded touring" with these wheels? (Mavic Open Pro may be too light)
>
> Yes, will be doing some loaded touring. My wife only weights 107. Her Mavic's will be 36 hole with
> X-tra lite double butted stainless spokes. I weigh 177 but I just checked and I am getting a Mavic
> 520 touring rim 36 hole and regular double butted spokes.

520's should be fine. Don't worry about weight for a touring bike. Get something you think will be
reliable. You don't want to mess with the bike when you are trying to breathe the air and see the
sites. Personally, I wouldn't feel bad or worry about LX quality when it comes to reliability. But
if you have the cash, there's not much reason to hold back from buying top-of-the-line.

Bontrager Fairlanes are available @ 36h/700c (from Rivendell), but have only single eyelets, IIRC.
The rear Fairlane is OCR, which I think is an idea that makes sense if it can be well implemented.
The Fairlane's single eyelets probably isn't a huge deal in practice because they have a lot of
aluminum. The 520 rear is not OCR and I think it is anodized; anodizing is a dubious concept --
Mavic claims it prevents corrosion, but I think it probably causes at least as many problems as it
allegedly solves (Al forms a thin protective oxide layer all by itself anyway). I do believe the 520
has double eyelets, which is good. Maybe you can find the 519 rim (for some reason I feel like I
remember that the 519 was not anodized).

> > Please describe more of your intended use. What is your shifting requirements? (number of
> > speeds, shifters, deraileurs)
>
> Triple crank, perhaps a 44-32-22. 9 speed rear 12-34.
> > What width tires will you be using?
>
> 700X32c

Sounds fine. The Pasela is available in 35c too, I think.
 
"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:An%[email protected]...
>
> "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Jay Beattie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > "Bluto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > "Wayne T" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > As I mentioned earlier, I am having my wife's and my bike
converted
> > > from
> > > > > freewheel to cassette. Also, I am converting my wife's 27" wheels
> > > to 700c.
> > > > > On the back, I can't use her current Phil Wood hub because it wont
> > > work with
> > > > > a cassette, so I am buying a Dura Ace.
> > > >
> > > > Going from a Phil hub to a Dura Ace cassette is a _big_ step down in quality and longevity.
> > > > It also imposes bearing adjustments that
need
> > > > not be performed on the Phil hub. Bad idea.
> > > >
> > > > It's like getting rid of your wife's Bentley in favor of an Acura because you like the idea
> > > > of front wheel drive.
> > >
> > > Have you had bad experience with DA? Longevity is such a hard thing
to
> > > judge with changing axle widths and the forced retirement of
equipment,
> > > but I have gotten good service out of DA/Ultegra hubs and Phil hubs. With the introduction of
> > > field serviceable bearings, some of the
burdens
> > > of owning Phil hubs are now gone. Back in the day, I found that the labyrinth seal on Shimano
> > > hubs sealed much better than the rubber
wiper
> > > on the old Phil hubs -- so the Phils stopped being my first choice for riding in the rain.
> >
> > Then you are saying that you prefer Dura Ace hubs for riding in the rain over the Phil hubs?
> > Sounds like you don't buy the statement that
trading
> in
> > a phil hubed wheel for a Dura Ace is a big mistake. Anyone else have
any
> > feelings on this?
> >
> > The Phil Wood hubs on my wife's bike are about 23 years old and seem to
> spin
> > like new. However, I wonder if I may be pushing it by sticking with
them
> > instead of replacing with the Dura Ace hub. Her Phil Wood bottom
bracket
> > spins real well but the frame builder told me that it is dry and need servicing, which he
> > believes he can do. The Phil Wood bottom bracket on
> my
> > bike turns rough. It is about 25 years old.
>
> Like JB says, age means nothing to mechanical things. It's use that matters, the amount and type
> of use to be specific. "I've got 500 year
old
> hubs and they're in perfect shape" means nothing.

Very good point. Actually, we didn't put on as many miles as some of our friends and layed off
biking for a while because when our son got too big to ride on the back, he never cared that
much for biking. Also, some of that time carting our son around was on the back of a custom
built Sterling tandem. However, it appears that the sealed PWs held up much better than my
Campy's since they are not sealed. Of course, it is only a matter of stripping them down and
relubing and replacing bearings to bring them back up to snuff. Had a friend who never had his
Campy hubs torn apart because he felt that a bike shop could not get the adjustment up to the
factory specs so he would periodically pump in lube until the excess coming out of the port was
no longer dirty but clear.
>
> >
> > I still have a pair of Phil hubs from '74, but they
> > > are on their third (or more) set of bearings. When the bearings go
this
> > > time, so go the hubs. Phil gave up his life-time warranty and now charges to replace worn-out
> > > cartridge bearings. This policy reversal pisses me off since I bought into the whole "life
> > > time warranty"
thing.
> > > Hey, I haven't died, I just ride like I have. -- Jay Beattie.
> > >
>
>
> Robin Hubert
 
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