For the past several years I've been happily riding my Trek 5500 w/ Campy 8-speed setup and old Campy wheels, but in the past couple weeks I was having problems that ended up being a result of a cracked chainstay.
Good news is that Trek is sending me a replacement '04 5500, and now I have the opportunity to build a bike for the next 5-8 years. As background I like doing centuries, double centuries, and I like climbing. I'll probably start doing some Cat 5 road races. On weekends I like to do at around 80 miles with 3-7k climbing. My big goal for the year is to break 1hr at the Mt. Diablo Hill Challenge.
So, if you had $2,000 or less to spend on components and wheels for a new 5500, what would you do? I'm thinking of going with a Chorus setup except for Record hubs / Ti cassette, and Zonda or Eurus wheelset. (I already have the FSA carbon crankset and Campy seatpost from the old bike) I'll also look at that new-fangled FSA carbon handlebar with the wide tops. I'd like to hear what others suggest.
I figure that the rotating weight difference is most important - so why pay extra for 20 grams in the levers or brakes when you could spend that same $$ to get lighter rims?
Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Paul Mitchell
Sacramento, CA
Good news is that Trek is sending me a replacement '04 5500, and now I have the opportunity to build a bike for the next 5-8 years. As background I like doing centuries, double centuries, and I like climbing. I'll probably start doing some Cat 5 road races. On weekends I like to do at around 80 miles with 3-7k climbing. My big goal for the year is to break 1hr at the Mt. Diablo Hill Challenge.
So, if you had $2,000 or less to spend on components and wheels for a new 5500, what would you do? I'm thinking of going with a Chorus setup except for Record hubs / Ti cassette, and Zonda or Eurus wheelset. (I already have the FSA carbon crankset and Campy seatpost from the old bike) I'll also look at that new-fangled FSA carbon handlebar with the wide tops. I'd like to hear what others suggest.
I figure that the rotating weight difference is most important - so why pay extra for 20 grams in the levers or brakes when you could spend that same $$ to get lighter rims?
Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Paul Mitchell
Sacramento, CA