bpatterson said:
[FONT="]I'm about to get my new bike it has reynolds MV32UL tubulars these will be my first tubulars [/FONT]
[FONT="]What are the big diffrences to clinchers as far as training ... do I need to always carry a extra tire ... should I glue my own tires or should just drop it off at the shop? any othe nuances of tubulars that you could provide are appreciated[/FONT]
BEFORE you hit the road with your new tubular wheels, the
first thing you need to know before you try to glue your new tubulars is that you should try to DRY mount them on the rims, first. When you do, you might utter an expletive or curse the shop from whom you bought the tires because you will swear you were sold 650c tires ...
In other words, you will need to pre-stretch the tires if you want to glue them on successfully without looking as though you missed arts-and-crafts in kindergarten ...
THAT means that you (normally) need an extra set of rims ... 700c clincher rims are 'okay' for pre-stretching if you don't have a spare set of tubular rims.
It also means that if you choose to do training rides with tubular wheels that your SPARE needs to be pre-stretched, too!
A "flat" sew-up tire is repaired "at home" and not on the road.
FWIW. If you are using a NEW, pre-stretched tire as the spare, I don't think you need to pre-glue it ... that's only 'my' opinion ... over time, you may learn how much/little glue you feel comfortable with using to glue up your tires -- compared with almost everyone else, I am a
minimalist with regard to how much glue I use ... but, I'm NOT racing; and, if I were, I would certainly use more glue than I do.
The
second thing you need to know is that "fat" sew-ups (about 700x24-25 equivalent) like the ones I started on are now available, again -- you don't have to riding Paris-Roubaix to appreciate the ride quality the larger tire provides.
As far as whether or not YOU should glue them up, yourself ... I would say that unless you are a sponsored rider with a team mechanic, then you should LEARN to glue them up yourself ... the option of dropping your wheel(s) off with someone and then waiting for him/her to have the time to take care of YOUR wheel(s) would become rather tedious after a while unless you have several sets of wheels.
Another thing you need to know about sew-ups is that the amount of tread is minimal when compared with most-if-not-all clincher tires ... the mileage you get will be abbreviated when compared with the mileage you have been getting with your clinchers.
I don't think there is an
all-weather sew-up, so while you will generally have better traction with a sew-up than with a clincher when dealing with dry road conditions, your sew-ups will probably not be as good as a clincher whose compound is formulated for wet road conditions.
Also, because a sew-up has a thinner tread, the tire will be more vulnerable to any road hazards which you might encounter on a wet road.
BTW. There is a reason that there is more than one
type/grade of clincher tire ... the so-called "training" clinchers will weigh more but yield a higher mileage than the clincher tires which cost 4x as much. I reckon a "training" sew-up may-or-may-not last as long as high end clincher.
Some people ride their tubulars all the time (I used to be one of
them) ... but, I think it is an expensive proposition that fewer people can to justify since many clinchers ride almost as well (some say, equally well), now -- so, for most people I think that sew-ups should probably be considered a luxury item for regular riding.
As far as I know, most pro teams actually train on standard 32x3 wheels ... clincher wheels.
I would suggest that if you are a(n aspiring) racer, but aren't sponsored, then you may want to save the sew-ups + high-zoot tubular wheels for race day unless you have unlimited disposable income to devote to tires-and-wheels.
FYI. Tubulars which have latex tubes do NOT like CO
2 cartridges ... but, even if your tubulars have "regular" butyl rubber inner tubes, you should probably get in the habit of carrying a (frame) pump that can exceed 100 PSI (vs. a shorty, MTB pump which usually can only go up to about 65 PSI).