New wheels - bad build



R

Rik O'Shea

Guest
I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs).
They look great, however when I put them on the truing stand
- ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few mm, - both
lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up and down),
also the rim isn't centered on both the front and rear.
Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
craftsmanship.

My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
provide a good true wheel would you:
(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;
OR
(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point
and them proceed to true the wheel.

Thanks
 
In article
<[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
> are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and
> hubs). They look great, however when I put them on the
> truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few
> mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up
> and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just
> bad craftsmanship.

I'd have a hard time believing a machine would do that bad
of a job. Usually they just leave the spokes too loose.

...

--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
the newsgroups if possible).
 
In article <[email protected]>,
Rik O'Shea <[email protected]> wrote:
>I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
>are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and
>hubs). They look great, however when I put them on the
>truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few
>mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up
>and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
>and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just
>bad craftsmanship.
>
>My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
>provide a good true wheel would you:
>(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting
> point; OR
>(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point
> and them proceed to true the wheel.

I think most "wheel experts" would say

(3) Return to builder for repair or refund

--Paul
 
No excuse for that. Complain & get your money back,
including shipping charges if any, and take your business
elsewhere.

Mike Yankee

(Address is munged to thwart spammers. To reply, delete
everything after "com".)
 
Rik O'Shea writes:

> I just received a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
> are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and
> hubs). They look great, however when I put them on the
> truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few
> mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up
> and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just
> bad craftsmanship.

> My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
> provide a good true wheel would you:

> (1) just true up the wheel from the current starting
> point;

> (2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point
> and them proceed to true the wheel.

Since you ask that way, I assume you bought these wheels
because they have the components you want and at a price
that is better than buying them separately, rather than to
avoid building your own wheels.

On the other hand your question suggests you haven't done
this often so It's hard to asses your facility with a spoke
wrench. I would put a drop of light oil on every spoke nipple-
rim eyelet and spoke thread-spoke nipple interface and true
the wheels. Unless the wheels are highly tensioned, which is
not likely, I see no reason to loosen. This is a classic
truing task that is starting from less than an ideal
condition.

If you want to simplify it you could back off each spoke
nipple until the first thread of each spoke is exposed and
start from there.

Sending the wheels back will cost money and most likely
won't get a good set of wheels in return from a dealer who
ships such poor quality in the first place.

Jobst Brandt [email protected]
 
Originally posted by Rik O'Shea
I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs).
They look great, however when I put them on the truing stand
- ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few mm, - both
lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up and down),
also the rim isn't centered on both the front and rear.
Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
craftsmanship.

My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
provide a good true wheel would you:
(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;
OR
(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point
and them proceed to true the wheel.

Thanks

What is your experience in tensioning, truing, spoke alignment, tension balancing, and stress relieving?
If it's not good enough for what you want the final product to be either send the wheels back or get a local wheel builder who can satisfy your needs.
The fact that you have a truing stand leads me to believe you have the answer in your head and hands.
The starting condition of your wheels will answer whether 1) or 2) is what you should do.
 
Rik O'Shea <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves
> are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and
> hubs). They look great, however when I put them on the
> truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few
> mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is hopping up
> and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just
> bad craftsmanship.

Was this an eBay deal or something similar? Sounds like the
wheels were built by an amateur. I'd send 'em back.

But if you want to try and salvage them, first thing is to
make sure the spokes are all the correct lengths. Check at
the nipples to see that the spokes come at least to the
bottom of the slot, but do not protrude beyond the end of
the nipple. If they're the correct length, I'd start by
making sure all of the spokes are engaged the same amount.
Then lube the spokes, nipples, and eyelets and proceed as
described the "The Bicycle Wheeel."

Art Harris
 
[email protected] wrote:

>> I just received a new set of wheels. The wheels
>> themselves are made of excellent components (DT rims,
>> spokes and hubs). They look great, however when I put
>> them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by
>> more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the
>> rear is hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered
>> on both the front and rear. Maybe the wheels were built
>> by machine or just bad craftsmanship.

>> My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
>> provide a good true wheel would you:

>> (1) just true up the wheel from the current starting
>> point;

>> (2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting
>> point and them proceed to true the wheel.

> Since you ask that way, I assume you bought these wheels
> because they have the components you want and at a price
> that is better than buying them separately, rather than to
> avoid building your own wheels.

This can be a good way to go -- if you're prepared to work
on them a little.

> On the other hand your question suggests you haven't done
> this often so It's hard to asses your facility with a
> spoke wrench. I would put a drop of light oil on every
> spoke nipple-rim eyelet and spoke thread-spoke nipple
> interface and true the wheels. Unless the wheels are
> highly tensioned, which is not likely, I see no reason to
> loosen. This is a classic truing task that is starting
> from less than an ideal condition.

> If you want to simplify it you could back off each spoke
> nipple until the first thread of each spoke is exposed and
> start from there.

> Sending the wheels back will cost money and most likely
> won't get a good set of wheels in return from a dealer who
> ships such poor quality in the first place.

I agree. Either retension these wheels yourself, or get a
shop to do it for $25-30. In most cases, you'll still come
out way ahead.

The rear wheel on my MTB was a take-off I got from Supergo
for $30. After retensioning it myself, I've had several
years of good service, with only a couple of minor
adjustments.

Matt O.
 
David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In article
> <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels
> > themselves are made of excellent components (DT rims,
> > spokes and hubs). They look great, however when I put
> > them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by
> > more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the
> > rear is hopping up and down), also the rim isn't
> > centered on both the front and rear. Maybe the wheels
> > were built by machine or just bad craftsmanship.
>
> I'd have a hard time believing a machine would do that bad
> of a job. Usually they just leave the spokes too loose.
>
> ...

Ditto. You're better off returning them- but if you want to
keep them, loosen everything, lube the spoke threads and
nipple seats, then round, true and tension... carefully.

Jeff
 
rikoshea-<< I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels
themselves are made of excellent components (DT rims, spokes
and hubs). They look great, however when I put them on the
truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few
mm, >><BR><BR>

<< My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To
provide a good true wheel would you:
(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;
OR
(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point
and them proceed to true the wheel. >><BR><BR> \ Since
the entire build is suspect, i would loosen all the
spokes and start over.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(3)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"