Thread locker
http://www.wheelsmith.com/index_files/wstools.htm
Nowhere is threadlocker mentioned at DT's web site, but I had assumed that this requirement of alloy spoke nipples was common knowledge.
It is very useful because the aluminum has less traction than rough brass. Colored aluminum nipples are sometimes less slippery because of their coatings.
Aluminum spoke nipples can break from uneven spoke tension caused by their own slight unscrewing from a wheel improperly built without the use of threadlocker.
Also, there's a slight difference in the threads of some spoke nipples. For instance DT12 aluminum requires a slightly longer spoke to have the same grip as WS14 aluminum. This is why I mentioned to be sure the spoke goes "all the way to the end" with DT spoke nipples.
DT brass spoke nipples typically break at the point between the wrench flats and the round section. This does not usually release the spoke immediately but as a very sudden surprise later if the slight (very tiny!) crack in the brass spoke nipple isn't spotted in time.
Sapim's brass alloy does not break.
DT's aluminum spoke nipple does not break. . .when:
1). the wheel is even tensioned,
2). the spokes are "all the way" to the ends of the nipples, and
3). proper spoke compound is used.
Ordinary Permatex Blue works and so does any spoke prep that initally lubricates and then sets up to prevent aluminum nipples from loosening.
Wheelsmith aluminum spoke nipples do not require the extra length (not threaded to the end); however, spoke prep (threadlocker) is vital to ensure even tension and avoid breakage. Also, sometimes those guys forget to put their spoke nipples in the oven and then they do break. Wheelsmith makes no aluminum spoke nipples. Those are bulk and re-branded. When they're an ugly gray, big, sharp, and chunky looking, they don't break. Otherwise, treat with caution.
My preferences are DT aluminum and Sapim for spoke nipples and for rear wheel spokes. However, Wheelsmith's annealed (springy) spokes seem quite a bit faster in front wheels (because they're "cushy").
Any attempt to remove the cushy effect from a Wheelsmith spoke will be beyond the capacity of any spoke nipple currently on the market, so I do not put springy Wheelsmith into drive sides.
Fortunately, similar appearances are available, lovely in combination with the rock hard spokes on the back (for power), and cushy on the front (speed like a glassy smooth road).
That must be one of those very weird cases where in real life (and not rocket science), 2 identical wheels are tested by speedometer, stiff rear wheel on Sapim or DT was found faster than a Wheelsmith rear wheel; however, the Wheelsmith front wheel on the same hub and rim was blazing faster than the DT or Sapim.
Results were a very large percentage.
The speedometer was replaced and the test was repeated many times.
Hard on the back and cushy on the front resulted in impressivly larger numbers on the speedometer.
No other cause was found than the spokes.
That does defy logic a bit.
I would like an explanation to explain the real-life scenerio. However, it does work, and it is repeatable.
Can you explain it?