Newbie needs help with tire/wheel sizing....please help !



Originally Posted by Robb1821i .

Also, when a tire says '28', does this mean the actual width when inflated is 28 mm ?
If you mean 28mm as in 700c x 28mm, then yes, allegedly the tire will have a width of 28mm. Unfortunately, manufacturers aren't really consistent in such standards, and each manufacture seems to measure width in a different way. I've had 25mm tires that were 24mm wide or were even less than 24m wide. One thing that the marketing heads like about labeling, say, a 26.5mm tire a 28mm tire is that it weighs slightly less than an actual 28mm tire with the same carcass construction. Unfortunately, a lot of people place a lot of emphasis on part weights, and marketeers know that people like lightweight parts. It's a chicken and egg thing. The actual tire width can also vary depending on the bead seat to bead seat width of a rim.
 
Originally Posted by Robb1821i .

So I'm pleased to say I've sourced all of my parts for my bike ! It's almost done now, does anyone have any suggestions for tires ? I was reading up on the continental gatorskins, they look pretty good for commutting. Any input ?

Conti makes good tires, and you can't really go wrong with the Gators. If you want something a little faster rolling you may want to try the Conti 4-seasons. Want to go even faster or race, the Conti GP's. I rode an entire season over some pretty gnarly roads (Flatbush ave.) on a pair without a flat. But if I wanted bulletproof from a quality tire I would probably go with the Gatorskins.

Btw, the guys in this vid are all running 28c or narrower tires: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1QXKjc1nLY&feature=BFa&list=PL0B87DD33FED8C306&lf=mh_lolz
 
Originally Posted by dabac .

Front wheels, I've only come across one OLD, over-locknut-distance AKA distance between inside faces of dropouts..
I believe the front hubs on wheels used in obsolete French framesets [[COLOR= #808080]i.e., the ones with French threaded (35x1) bottom brackets and French threaded headsets which date to before the mid-80s[/COLOR]] often have a 96m OLD.

So, presumably, even a vintage Campagnolo hubset whose rear hub was threaded for a French-threaded Freewheel woud probably have a front hub whose OLD s 96mm.
 
So can I put any shimano 8spd cassette on those hubs ? They look like a standard free hub ? I was looking into th hg50 11-32t or maybe the hg30 11-34t. I understand the tooth. Count but what's the number after hg mean ?
 
Originally Posted by Robb1821i .

So can I put any shimano 8spd cassette on those hubs ? They look like a standard free hub ? I was looking into th hg50 11-32t or maybe the hg30 11-34t. I understand the tooth. Count but what's the number after hg mean ?

Can't say offhand. Shimano basically have two common freehub body lengths, 7-speed and 8/9/10-speed. Within the latter group, there's full compatibility either way. Some people report needing a thin spacer/washer for certain combos.
And while Shimano indeed dominates the market, there are a couple of other freehubs out there. Some are Shimano compatible, some aren't.
But with 34T you may run into issues with rear derailer capacity. The cage length of the derailer determines how big of a span in tooth count (which determines the amount of chain slack) that a particular derailer can handle. Road bikes tend to use short cage derailers, cassettes with tighter ratios and a smaller span. Particularly if you're in flat country, a 34T may not be that useful for you.

The HG-XX is Shimano speak for, let's call it degree of refinement. Crudely put, number of speeds determines basic compatibility and functionality, while the xx determines bling value. A high number denotes a "better" surface treatment and more detailing. To which extent those features actually influence performance I have no idea. The one area where it's definitely important is if you're using an aluminium freehub body. High xx cassettes may have a carrier for the bigger sprockets, which helps to distribute the loads on the splines. Cheap cassettes on aluminum freehub bodies can sometimes cause notching of the splines, making the cassette a pain to remove.