Call me Bob <[email protected]
> wrote in message news:[email protected]
> On Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:17:18 +0000 (UTC), "StainlessSteelRat" <[email protected]
> >> What kind of headset is it?
> >To be honest, I have no idea. I remember the last time I adjusted a
> >it had some form of "nut" that you undid above the forks and then you
> >out and tightened. All I can see on this is a socket at the top of the steering column (sorry!
> >I'm not sure of exact technical descriptions).
This "socket" will be the end of a bolt with an allen-key head
> You've probably got an A head type headset and stem. This unfortunately means that raising the
> height of your handlebars is likely to mean buying a new stem with increased rise. An A head type
> arrangement doesn t have the same kind of adjustment available as the more traditional quill type
> stems you are familiar with.
> You can confirm this by undoing the allen bolt at the top of the steerer column. If it's A head
> this will allow you to remove the circular cap at the top revealing the star fangled nut beneath.
> Nothing else should move at that point because the bolts of your stem are holding things in place.
And if its a quill stem and threaded headset , you'll have just taken out a long (~6")
allen-headed bolt, which you can have the entertaining job of screwing back into the expander at the
bottom of the stem.
A-head type headsets/stems have a couple of clamp bolts to clamp the stem onto the steerer, or
rarely a a wedge inside the the stem. It's probably best to look for allen bolt heads NOT at the top
but on the side of bike end of the stem. If there's anything there, it'll be an A-head stem, if
there is only the allen bolt head at the top of the steerer, it'll be a quill stem.
A-head stems. There may be spacer rings either below the stem, or between the stem and the top cap.
These can be moved above/below the stem as required to give a small amount of adjustment - low = all
rings above stem, high = all rings below stem. If the angle between the stem and the fork steerer is
not 90 degrees, you can turn the stem over to get a difference in bar height. The bars are normally
clamped on with a removable end cap, so you don't have to remove the brake levers etc. If neither of
these is possible, or does not give the required handlebar position, you will have to buy a new stem
that has a different angle to the fork steerer.
To move: take off the top cap, loosen the clamp bolts, lift off the stem and spacers, replace as
required, replace the top cap, carefully tightening until the bearings are correctly adjusted,
tighten the clamp bolts
Quill stems: These are the same as you remember, just with an allen bolt head instead of a hex bolt
head. Undo the allen bolt 3 or 4 turns, and give it a good hearty whack to knock the expander bolt
down (you may have to hit the allen key if the bolt head is still recessed). You should now be able
to adjust the bar height and re-tighten the bolt. A common problem is that the quill corrodes into
place inside the fork steerer, so a considerable amount of force can be required.
Headset = the bearings Stem = the bit that holds the handlebars