Nexus 8 Hub Gear

[Tony B]

Mrs B's bike has the above fitted; it seems to be far too difficult to
get it into 8 and going the other way, snapping down the box, it gets to
2 then the cassett joint doesn't appear to move down into 1 (and there
is no noticeable pedalling difference between 2 and 1) so I suspect it's
failing to engage first gear.

Harry Hall neglected to provide us with any documentation (yeah I know,
a criminal offence apparently), Sheldon is a bit quiet on the 8-speed
hub and Shimano have their usual documentation on their site - with
nothing at all about setting up the hub gear to work properly.

I need to know which gear the hub should be in on order to set the cable
correctly, failing this I am assuming we have a faulty hub but that
seems the least likely of the possible problems.

BTW Harry Hall were unable to show me how to remove the rear wheel,
no-one in the shop knew how to do it. I've kind of figured it out for
myself now though. They did helpfully suggest that the chance of getting
a puncture "with those tyres" was minimal, so that's alright then ;-)

Any advice greatfully recived.

I really don't want to take it back to HH again.

bfn,

Tony B

 

[mb]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Mrs B's bike has the above fitted; it seems to be far too difficult to
> get it into 8 and going the other way, snapping down the box, it gets to
> 2 then the cassett joint doesn't appear to move down into 1 (and there
> is no noticeable pedalling difference between 2 and 1) so I suspect it's
> failing to engage first gear.
>
> Harry Hall neglected to provide us with any documentation (yeah I know,
> a criminal offence apparently), Sheldon is a bit quiet on the 8-speed
> hub and Shimano have their usual documentation on their site - with
> nothing at all about setting up the hub gear to work properly.
>

Seems quite comprehensive to me...
http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/australia/en/cycling/customer_
support/service_diagrams/cc05.html

--
Mike

 

[Tony B]

> Seems quite comprehensive to me...

well, yeah - cheers for the link, I found the service sheet but tbh it's
not helped. It mentions cables not once on there... how can I be having
trouble with top AND bottom gears? Does that means the cable tension is
at once too tight and too slack?

I'll have a play with the bike this affy.

ta very much,

Tony B

 

[mb]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> > Seems quite comprehensive to me...
>
> well, yeah - cheers for the link, I found the service sheet but tbh it's
> not helped. It mentions cables not once on there... how can I be having
> trouble with top AND bottom gears? Does that means the cable tension is
> at once too tight and too slack?
>

It looks like you need the instructions for the brake/shift lever and
not the hub itself.

--
Mike

 

[maxo]

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 10:07:35 +0100, Tony B wrote:

>
> BTW Harry Hall were unable to show me how to remove the rear wheel, no-one
> in the shop knew how to do it. I've kind of figured it out for myself now
> though. They did helpfully suggest that the chance of getting a puncture
> "with those tyres" was minimal, so that's alright then ;-)
>
> Any advice greatfully recived

My only experience with the Nexus is with the 7spd, which I never had
issues with as long as the cable was adjusted properly. You're putting it
in the correct gear (was #4 with the 7sp) and adjusting the cable till the
two "little red pips" by the rear cog line up? I'm assuming it works the
same way as the 7? Sorry if that sounds pedantic, but I may have not
parsed your post correctly. (only one cuppa joe so far )

BTW, learn to fix flats with the wheel still on the bike--this will save
your HUGE roadside headaches. Not always possible--and with the right
tires you shouldn't really have worries, but: open up the bead of the tire
on one side and pull out the tube, patch, re-stuff, and pump. You'll have
to be fortunate to know where the hole is with this method, but that's
usually not a problem. Taught to me by my grandpappy. Do make sure that
the offending object doesn't get left in the tire carcass to bite again.

Is your chain tension proper? Another pedantic question to be sure, but
those hubs are so well made that there's so little for the end user to
check--that's why folks don't know much about them--they don't break
(usually). Loose is better than tight. An inch or so of wiggle up and down
will do you. Some say a half inch. As long as it isn't tight and can't
jump off is a good enough rule.

 

[Tony B]

maxo wrote:

Good advice! Cheers, and thanks to mb as wel for the tip er. the brifter
setup instructions. I am now in full possesion of the facts and have
spent a happy hour stripping, looking, cleaning and rebuilding the thing
- it's now all sorted and lovely.

The trick was to set the alignment properly in gear no 4, which I could
have done without the stripdown but at least now I know how the back end
comes apart :-0 however I think the punture repair method that leaves
the wheel in the frame will be used, it's a right performance getting
the wheel out even in the garage. I wouldn't fancy it in the pi$$ing
rain, with darkness approaching...

thanks for the help,

Tony B

 

[Pete Biggs]

maxo wrote:
> BTW, learn to fix flats with the wheel still on the bike--this will
> save your HUGE roadside headaches. Not always possible--and with the
> right
> tires you shouldn't really have worries, but: open up the bead of the
> tire on one side and pull out the tube, patch, re-stuff, and pump.
> You'll have to be fortunate to know where the hole is with this
> method, but that's usually not a problem.

Or for slow punctures, keep on removing bits of tube until the hole is
found. Or use a funny tube that can be replaced without removing wheel
like this: http://tinyurl.com/dxge7 (cut old tube out!).

~PB

 

[Sheldon Brown]

Tony B wrote:

> Mrs B's bike has the above fitted; it seems to be far too difficult to
> get it into 8 and going the other way, snapping down the box, it gets to
> 2 then the cassett joint doesn't appear to move down into 1 (and there
> is no noticeable pedalling difference between 2 and 1) so I suspect it's
> failing to engage first gear.
>
> Harry Hall neglected to provide us with any documentation (yeah I know,
> a criminal offence apparently), Sheldon is a bit quiet on the 8-speed
> hub

I am? I thought I wast trumpeting it's glory to the rooftops!

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/shimano-nexus.html

I've got two of 'me and just love 'em!

http://sheldonbrown.org/iro

http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international

I've also scanned the Shimano service manual, find it at:

http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus8

I have a tech page on the 7-speed hubs, which mostly also applies to the
8s:

http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html

maxo wrote:

> My only experience with the Nexus is with the 7spd, which I never had
> issues with as long as the cable was adjusted properly. You're
putting > it in the correct gear (was #4 with the 7sp) and adjusting the
cable
> till the two "little red pips" by the rear cog line up? I'm assuming
> it works the same way as the 7?

No, it's completely different. You do put it in 4th gear, and you do
line up the pips, but on the 8-speed version, the pips are _yellow_ ;-)

Sheldon "The Same But Different" Brown
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Give a man a fire, and he will stay warm for a day. |
| Set a man on fire, he stays warm for the rest of his life. |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Tony B wrote:

> Mrs B's bike has the above fitted; it seems to be far too difficult to
> get it into 8 and going the other way, snapping down the box, it gets to
> 2 then the cassett joint doesn't appear to move down into 1 (and there
> is no noticeable pedalling difference between 2 and 1) so I suspect it's
> failing to engage first gear.
>
> Harry Hall neglected to provide us with any documentation (yeah I know,
> a criminal offence apparently), Sheldon is a bit quiet on the 8-speed
> hub and Shimano have their usual documentation on their site - with
> nothing at all about setting up the hub gear to work properly.
>
> I need to know which gear the hub should be in on order to set the cable
> correctly, failing this I am assuming we have a faulty hub but that
> seems the least likely of the possible problems.

4th gear, line up the two yellow lines on the RH side of the hub.
Change gear up and down a few times and re-check. It's not quite as
critical as a 9-spd derailleur system.

 

[maxo]

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 16:54:42 +0100, Tony B wrote:

> The trick was to set the alignment properly in gear no 4.

LOL--well, now you're set for quite a while of not thinking about it.

I'm jealous! Those new 8spd Nexus hubs look very nice!

 

[maxo]

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 13:58:01 -0400, Sheldon Brown wrote:

> No, it's completely different. You do put it in 4th gear, and you do line
> up the pips, but on the 8-speed version, the pips are _yellow_ ;-)

DAMN YOU SHIMANO!!!

 

[Tony B]

Sheldon Brown wrote:
> Tony B wrote:
Sheldon is a bit quiet

> I am? I thought I wast trumpeting it's glory to the rooftops!

> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/shimano-nexus.html
>
Ah, yes well... that will be what I was looking for then. <gets coat and
leaves>.

How did I miss that then? I only saw 7-speed on the site?

Cheers anyway. I knew it was only a setting thing, honest...

bfn,

Tony B

PS yes they are top when they are set up properly.