Noob suspension question

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by dvnjhn, Dec 6, 2007.

  1. dvnjhn

    dvnjhn New Member

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    Okay, got my first front suspension specialized mountain bike. How do I set the suspension for my weight?
     
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  2. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    It depends on the type of suspension your bike has ...

    Look for a "dial" on the shoulder of the fork ... AND/OR, a Schrader valve near the dropouts -- the bike might/(should) have come with a tech sheet specific to the fork.

    SOME (less expensive) forks cannot be adjusted ... check your bike's specs OR ask the shop/person you bought the bike from.
     
  3. dvnjhn

    dvnjhn New Member

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    Okay,


    The spec for the bike are as follows

    Frame: A1 Premium Aluminum, disc only, double butted ORE DT, externally relieved head tube, reinforced disc mount, forged dropouts w/ replaceable 98954020 hanger
    Forks: RST Gilla Plus T7, 100mm, Cro-Mo steerer, 30mm stanchions, coil MCU w/ preload adjust
    Gear shifters:Shimano Alivio M-410 SL Rapid Fire
    Front mech: Shimano Acera M-330
    Rear mech: Shimano Acera
    Crankset: Truvativ ISO Flow 3.0 for Power Spline, replaceable rings
    Cassette: Shimano MFHG-40, 8-speed, 11-32t
    Rims: Specialized/Alex HRD 26, double wall disc
    Hubs F: Specialized Hi Lo disc, 36h, CNC flange and disc mount, QR. R:Shimano M-475 Disc, cassette, 36h
    Tyres: Specialized Resolution, 26x2.1", 30TPI, wire bead
    Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry, ATB
    Seat post: Alloy micro adjust
    Stem: Specialized 3D forged alloy, two bolt, 25.4mm, 10 degree rise
    Handlebar: Alloy 25.4mm, 38mm rise, 620mm wide, 8 degree back, 6 degree up sweep, 3.2mm thick
    Grips: Specialized Enduro, dual density Kraton
    <LI>Brakes: Hayes Sole hydraulic w/ 6" v-cut rotors
    Is there a general rule of thumb I can follow for setting this up. There are dials on the top of the forks
     
  4. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    You know, I could very well be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that your fork does NOT have any adjustments, per se, and those "dials" may just be cosmetic plugs ... particularly, if there isn't a curved ARROW pointing in a clockwise OR counter-clockwise direction imprinted on the plugs.

    I think that type of fork may be adjusted by changing the springs, altogether ... a proposition that generally isn't economical on less expensive forks.

    BTW. I have a really OLD suspension fork where I think I recall access to the LIMITED adjustment (with a 5mm Allen Wrench) is done AFTER removing the shoulder plugs; but, I never made any adjustments (the action/"rebound" is/was pretty limited & stiff), and so ...

    A wild guess on my part is that the springs in your fork are held in place with long bolts & can be adjusted (i.e., tightened-or-loosened) to some extent if you have the right wrench ... but, I'm NOT sure that a loosened bolt is a good idea ... and, to increase the tension on the springs, I would stack some (additional) LARGE washers on top of the spring.

    You may need to go to the/(any) bike shop to see if they can assist you with more information ...

    AND, presuming you bought your bike at a shop, they should have made any "necessary" adjustments for you before you rolled the bike out the door.

    FWIW. Regardless of the fork brand OR type, the main thing that you can do to maximize the efficiency of your fork is to lube the sliders with some SLICK HONEY (if you are in to using commercial brands) or some Vaseline (or, a Vaseline + motor oil "mix" that has the consistency of honey ... yes, DIY Slick Honey).
     
  5. dvnjhn

    dvnjhn New Member

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    I bought the bike on line as it was a return that I got cheaper.

    You are probably right, I will have to take it to a shop

    Thanks mate
     
  6. Insaneclimber

    Insaneclimber New Member

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    The best way to adjust those forks is to throw them in the rubbish bin and buy some Fox or Rock shox, seriously man those forks are crap and dangerous.
     
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