nut for the headset top cap
- Thread starter urge2kill
- Start date
No. The Allen-head bolt that holds the top cap down (and pre-loads the headset bearings) threads into a expanding nut inside the fork. That bolt comes with the headset.
You have the choice of using the cap that comes with the stem or the one that came with the headset. Select the one that fits better. There should be a small gap between the top of the steerer and the bottom of the nut. Also, the top of the upper bolt that clamps the stem to the steerer should be no higher than the top of the steerer. Use stem spacers to fine-tune.
A traditional headset should come with,(from the bottom): - crown race - bottom (ball) bearing assembly - bottom cup - top cup - top (ball) bearing assembly - top cone/race Threaded ones might have a washer, then a locknut. Threadless ones will have a conical compression ring. To threaded ones you can then add brake hangers, light holders and possibly some spacers. To threadless ones you can add pretty much whatever you want and think you need between headset and stem. Do note that for integrated headsets, things may be different. Cup and bearing can be one unit.urge2kill said:
If the steerer tube is metal, yes, you need a star-fangled nut. If carbon, there are several types of internally expanding nuts. Setting the star nu requires a star nut setter. A badly set star nut will ensure that your bike will steer badly until you punch it through and install another. Don't try to do it without the tool. Your local shop shouldn't charge too much to do this for you.
All threadless headsets, whether integrated or not, have a crown race, a bottom bearing, a top bearing, a wedge shim (I can't remember the other names for this right now), a compression cone, a top cap, and a top cap bolt. A loose-ball bearing consists of cone (the crown race serves as the cone), balls, and a cup (inserts into the bottom of the head tube). On top, the cone inserts into the frame and the cup goes on top. The wedge shim keeps the top of the steerer centered in the bearing, and the cone, beneath the stem and spacers, compresses the bearings. On integrated headsets, shims are needed between the wedge shim and cone to provide some clearance between the cone and the frame. Some headsets have removable seals--follow manufacturer's instructions for proper installation.
When everything works properly, the top cap, stem, spacers, compression cone, and fork all rotate freely as a unit. Here's the link to the Park Tool headset page. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/headset-service.
Integrated or not. Integrated just means that the bearings are hidden inside the frame. Fitting and installing a headset is more complicated than your line of questioning here. Well, it can be very straightforward, but you can fall into some pretty deep holes, including destroying the frame if you do it wrong.
Probably the best thing to do is take your frame to a local shop, tell them you need a headset, and have them measure things up and let them order it for you. Or, if they have it in stock. Cutting the steerer (if necesssary), setting the star nut, setting the crown race, and pressing in the races (for non-integrated headsets) require specialized tools to do it right consistently. I've done it without the tools and made a mess, but I have to say I was lucky.
I don't know the inside diameter of a 1-1/8" steerer. Just tell the guy you need a star-fangled nut for a 1-1/8" steerer.
Quote:Originally Posted by oldbobcat .All threadless headsets, whether integrated or not, have a crown race, a bottom bearing, a top bearing, a wedge shim (I can't remember the other names for this right now), a compression cone, a top cap, and a top cap bolt. A loose-ball bearing consists of cone (the crown race serves as the cone), balls, and a cup (inserts into the bottom of the head tube).
... CHRIS KING headsets do not have[COLOR=FF00AA]/[/COLOR]use a compression cone ... Quote:Originally Posted by oldbobcat .
[COLOR=FF00AA]Probably the best thing to do is take your frame to a local shop[/COLOR] ...
YES!
... CHRIS KING headsets do not have[COLOR=FF00AA]/[/COLOR]use a compression cone ... Quote:Originally Posted by oldbobcat .
[COLOR=FF00AA]Probably the best thing to do is take your frame to a local shop[/COLOR] ...
YES!
So I've noticed. It appears that the top part of the top bearing is the bearing cone, and that serves as the compression cone, too. From bottom to top, the top bearing of a Chris King headset goes cup, balls, cone, the reverse of most loose-ball headsets.
Brand new frame and fork
Aluminum
integrated
1-1/8"
performancebike.com
The shop told me "we don't do that", but one guy glanced and commented that it already looked like "a nice machined surface".
How do I know the top/bottom side of a crown race or bearing race? They headset fits nicely how it was packaged, but the bearing races have to be reversed to fit the headtube. The crown race, of course, doesn't mesh with the fork either way.
Still doesn't tell me much.
On an integrated headset, the bearings should just drop into the frame. The crown race needs a crown race setting tool. The steerer and crown might also need some machining to get it to fit. Or it might simply be the wrong size. Anyhow, here's a link to the Park Tool page on headset technologies. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards#is. You want to scroll down to "Integrated - Angular Contact System." Good luck.
I think you need to find a new bike shop.
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