old hub with new lace pattern & re-countersinking holes

ive read here repeatedly that the indentations that the seated spokes leave in a hub make for hub
breakage if they are laced either with a new lace pattern, or even laced in the same pattern, but
with offsetting the lace pattern. if i want to lace a hub with a new spoke pattern, is it better to

a) just do it, and hope it doesnt break
b) chamfer the inside edge of the holes that used to hold the spoke head. this would take away
material, so that the spoke rested on a thinner piece of metal. however, it would also take away
the stress riser of the old indentation. i could do this by hand with a counter sink without too
much fuss, i think.
c)insert your own option. please dont say "but anthony, hubs are so cheap"

related question- what is the failure mode of stressed flanges? if i take the first option and just
hope for the best, should i expect to catch a failure before it happens by routine inspection for
cracks? do these failures tend to be one spoke at a time? or ten adjacent spokes pop off together?

and how often do these relaced hubs bite the dust, anyway? everytime? rarely?

thanks,

anthony

(ps: i posted this a week ago, but it never went through, AFAIK. apologies if it ends up double
posted or etc..)

 

anthony-<< if i want to lace a hub with a new spoke pattern, is it better to .

match the direction of the previous lace-that is pulling and pushing spokes, don't lace with a spoke
'pulling' when before it was the opposite-

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[email protected] (Qui si parla Campagnolo) wrote in message
> match the direction of the previous lace-that is pulling and pushing spokes, don't lace with a
> spoke 'pulling' when before it was the opposite-
>

not sure i understand. is 'pulling and pushing' analagous to 'leading and trailing'?

does anyone know how bad it would be to remove material from the spoke beds, re: my previous post in
this thread?

anthony