Opinions on the Pro-Lite Como wheelset?



warrwych wrote:
> petulance Wrote:
> >
> > I went from no name 5 speed friction downtube shifters to 9 speed Dura
> > Ace STI ... I definitely felt a difference there!
> >
> > :)
> >
> > <snippingsnipping>
> >
> > which Campag grouppo do you have? Veloce or Mirage?

>
> hehehe - downtubes to sti - yup! there's a slight improvement there :p
> . I used to jam my fingers in the front wheel downtube shifting on my
> first roady - ouch :(


I never had problems with the down tube shifters, though I picked up
the habit of looking back at the cassette to see if I had successfully
changed gears. And I never had to sprint or climb hills on my old
roadie.

>
> I have centaur, which suits a horse nut :p ;)


I wouldn't call the Centaur group lower end. If I was shifting to Campy
I think my only affordable options would be Veloce or Centaur.
 
petulance said:
warrwych wrote:
> petulance Wrote:
> >
> > I went from no name 5 speed friction downtube shifters to 9 speed Dura
> > Ace STI ... I definitely felt a difference there!
> >
> > :)
> >
> > <snippingsnipping>
> >
> > which Campag grouppo do you have? Veloce or Mirage?

>
> hehehe - downtubes to sti - yup! there's a slight improvement there :p
> . I used to jam my fingers in the front wheel downtube shifting on my
> first roady - ouch :(


I never had problems with the down tube shifters, though I picked up
the habit of looking back at the cassette to see if I had successfully
changed gears. And I never had to sprint or climb hills on my old
roadie.

>
> I have centaur, which suits a horse nut :p ;)


I wouldn't call the Centaur group lower end. If I was shifting to Campy
I think my only affordable options would be Veloce or Centaur.

o oh.. think I have just revealed myself as a gruppo snob
:D :p
 
warrwych wrote:
> petulance Wrote:
> > I wouldn't call the Centaur group lower end. If I was shifting to
> > Campy
> > I think my only affordable options would be Veloce or Centaur.

>
> o oh.. think I have just revealed myself as a gruppo snob
> :D :p
>


Snob!

:p

OK, so I run Dura Ace on my roadie but my MTB only has Deore level
parts ... so I'm not a snob ...
 
petulance said:
warrwych wrote:
> petulance Wrote:
> > I wouldn't call the Centaur group lower end. If I was shifting to
> > Campy
> > I think my only affordable options would be Veloce or Centaur.

>
> o oh.. think I have just revealed myself as a gruppo snob
> :D :p
>


Snob!

:p

OK, so I run Dura Ace on my roadie but my MTB only has Deore level
parts ... so I'm not a snob ...


phew..I have deore also on my mtb... (but dura ace on the tracky).. ;)
 
warrwych said:
hehehe - downtubes to sti - yup! there's a slight improvement there :p . I used to jam my fingers in the front wheel downtube shifting on my first roady - ouch :(

I have centaur, which suits a horse nut :p ;)

Well I just rode a bike with downtube shifters to work and I'm not a fan. I touched the front tyre a couple of time, but I think that was a learning experience that won't be repeated. The indexed barcons on the bullhorn bars are definitely the best setup I've found so far (although the front derailleur is friction shifted, which works well too). This morning was also a working demonstration as to the importance of fit. I was riding the MBK I picked up the other day and it's definitely too big for me. I dropped the saddle, but of course that's only part of the story. too much reach, top tube too high when I'm out of the saddle (bangs against the inside of my thighs) just generally hard work.
 
Resound said:
Well I just rode a bike with downtube shifters to work and I'm not a fan. I touched the front tyre a couple of time, but I think that was a learning experience that won't be repeated. The indexed barcons on the bullhorn bars are definitely the best setup I've found so far (although the front derailleur is friction shifted, which works well too). This morning was also a working demonstration as to the importance of fit. I was riding the MBK I picked up the other day and it's definitely too big for me. I dropped the saddle, but of course that's only part of the story. too much reach, top tube too high when I'm out of the saddle (bangs against the inside of my thighs) just generally hard work.

I used to hook my thumb on the toptube to stop my hand drifting too far forward and into the front wheel, then drop my hand to change gears on the downtube.
 
Travis wrote:
> I've been practicing wheel trueing and building on an old crappy wheel,
> partly in preparation for building a set of wheels, should I ever do
> that.


I built up a new wheel in front of the rugby test on TV last night.
Well, not the whole wheel, just a new rim, as the old one was grooved
out and cracking up. I built a pair of wheels in about 1983 (should
have been studying for exams) and they lasted me for years. Since then
I've had the LBS do it, but have been turning my mind to trying again.
I clamped the new rim against the old one with cable ties and just
transferred the spokes over, one by one. Then slowly wound up the
nipples (new) one by one, a turn at a time until they were slightly
tensioned, then put it in the frame to finish it off. I had to put a
couple of turns into each spoke on the drive side to get the dishing
right, then just a quarter turn here and there to take out some minor
wobbles. New brake pads and some cable adjustment, and three stubbies
later, it works like a charm. Saved myself $50 and had a bit of fun.
And I even got to go to bed before the game was done. Did we win?

Donga
 
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 18:49:59 -0700, Donga wrote:

> New brake pads and some cable adjustment, and three stubbies
> later, it works like a charm.


You shouldn't have to worry about destressing the spokes since they're
recycled, but you could have some windup there. I'm also not sure how high
the tension is.

Try putting the wheel down on the ground with the QR in, then trying to
push opposite sides of the rim to the ground. Repeat at 60 degree or so
intervals around the rim until it stops pinging, then flip it over and
repeat. Retrue/tension, rinse, and repeat until it stops pinging.
Otherwise your nice true wheel might be less so 50km down the track.

Tension's a mite trickier to describe. Pluck all the spokes - the ones on
the same side should all make roughly the same note. If so, the tension is
basically even. If the tension's reasonably high the wheel should last you
ages.

--
Dave Hughes | [email protected]
The RSPCA at the end of the road where I work also
offers a pet chipping service. Whenever I see the
sign (most days) I think of the film Fargo.
 
Random Data wrote:

> You shouldn't have to worry about destressing the spokes since they're
> recycled, but you could have some windup there. I'm also not sure how high
> the tension is.
>
> Try putting the wheel down on the ground with the QR in, then trying to
> push opposite sides of the rim to the ground. Repeat at 60 degree or so
> intervals around the rim until it stops pinging, then flip it over and
> repeat. Retrue/tension, rinse, and repeat until it stops pinging.
> Otherwise your nice true wheel might be less so 50km down the track.
>
> Tension's a mite trickier to describe. Pluck all the spokes - the ones on
> the same side should all make roughly the same note. If so, the tension is
> basically even. If the tension's reasonably high the wheel should last you
> ages.


Thanks for the tips Dave.

I put a tiny bit of grease in every nipple to start, and the spokes
didn't seem to wind up.

I laid the wheel down and stood on the rim and jiggled a bit, on both
sides. I had the QR out - why do you put it in?

Tension - have been thinking about going to my LBS to borrow their
meter. Maybe I'll wait for a week to see how the wheel settles in. 31
of the 32 spokes are DT Revs and they like a high tension, but I don't
think I've got it wound very tight. If I had really screwed up, I could
always balk out and pay the lads $25 to fix my trainwreck.

No doubt, it's fun to build a wheel (OK, call me weird). I might tackle
a whole wheel soon - perhaps on a flipflop hub to build up a
fixie/single.

Donga