Opticube LED lighting advice?

[flyingdutch]

Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek training rides.
I'm always out early and this time of year it's dark when I leave and just
getting light when I get back. Anyone know if the Cateye opticube lights are
bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user experience
before I put my money down. Thanks.
--
Peter S
skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au

are you looking at it for the purposes of seeing, or being seen?

If its to be seen only, get a few of the (few different brands available) of the small single-LEDs and put one/2 on your bars and one on the front of the helmet and 1or2 red ones on back of bike and helmet

at $12-20 each these are damn good bang-for-buck and damn effective.
the one on the top of helmet is darned good for 'buzzin' drivers who arent directly in front of you (ie entering from sidestreet or attempting a righthand turn oncoming)

using 4 AA batteries is gonna get expensive!
so, or perhaps look at DWD's other ones for same-ish bucks?

http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/category136_1.htm

using 4 AA batteries is gonna get expensive!

 

[suzyj]

Peter S wrote:

> Anyone know if the Cateye opticube lights are bright enough to really work?

Depends. They use opticcube to denote many of their LED and halogen lights. Most of the LED ones are a waste of space. The halogen ones are pretty good.

> I'm looking at this one
http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm
> but want some user experience before I put my money down.

You picked their one useable LED light. I did a 400 with a guy that used two of these. They're good stuff. They throw a good beam (enough to see by, as well as be seen), and last a reasonable amount of time.

The only downside (and this is common to all the Cateye lights) is their mounts are a bit on the fragile side.

Regards,

Suzy

 

[Peter Gordon]

flyingdutch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Peter S Wrote:
>> Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek training
>> rides.
>> Anyone know if the Cateye opticube
>> lights are
>> bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
>> http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user
>> experience
>> before I put my money down. Thanks.
>> --
>> Peter S
>> skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au
>
> using 4 AA batteries is gonna get expensive!
> so, or perhaps look at DWD's other ones for same-ish bucks?
>
> http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/category136_1.htm
>
I don't wish to be dogmatic on this and have no knowledge
of the opticube.

Some of us have smart chargers which can charge 4 AA NiMetalHydride
battries in about 4 hours. Trying to find a reliable equivalent
for the usual "waterbottle type" bike battery is difficult if not
impossible, so we are stuck with the cheap chargers which are
sold with the light. They take longer to charge the battery
and there is the danger of cooking an expensive battery by
overcharging.

If it is possible to switch to something like the opticube with
a battery life of about 30 hours, it is a step in the right
direction.

I've seen many posts in this newsgroup about nightstick battery
failures. Battery failure & the difficulty of obtaining new bulbs
appears to be the main cause of light set failure.
LEDs have a long life and may be more economical. When they fail,
you probably need to buy a new light.

These are just my thoughts. I don't have any particular expertese
in this area.

 

[Peter Signorini]

"Peter S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek training
rides.
> I'm always out early and this time of year it's dark when I leave and just
> getting light when I get back. Anyone know if the Cateye opticube lights
are
> bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
> http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user
experience
> before I put my money down. Thanks.

This is a very bright and effective light according to friends of mine - I
have not used or seen it at night.

But for a different take:
Opticube $130
4 AA NiMHs $15
Smartcharger $20

Total cost $165

This sort of cost is quite high, and if you're regularly riding at night on
streets you could save yourself all the angst of recharging batteries by
getting a quality dynamo front light eg.
http://www.stkildacycles.com.au/dynamos__lights.htm

The B&M S6 is a very low drag dynamo with built-in zener diode voltage
protection for $165, and the Lumotec light ($45) has an excellent halogen
light with a surrounding white reflector. Total cost: $210. I have found
this setup to be great for night rides on road. There is also the B&M 6 with
slightly more drag, but quite a cost saving at $65.

Cheers
Peter

 

[Peter Vesel]

"Peter S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek training
rides.
> I'm always out early and this time of year it's dark when I leave and just
> getting light when I get back. Anyone know if the Cateye opticube lights
are
> bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
> http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user
experience
> before I put my money down. Thanks.
> --
> Peter S
> skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au
>
>
>

I recently bought one as a back up light for my main halogen light.
There is no way I would pay the asking price you have shown though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7145726773
&rd=1


These work out at around A$50 including shipping, and took about 8 days to
arrive.

As far as light output goes they are really only a "be seen" light. It is
blindingly bright
light if you look straight into the lens, but it is very directional.
My home made 20w 6 degree halogen light is far,far,far superior to the
opticube
and I would not use the opticube for anything other than a backup or just as
the sun comes
up/ goes down light.
It is however a much better light than the small one led jobs that you can
buy, even though
I also have 4 of those on my bike as well now. (can't be too safe)

Peter

 

[Peter S]

Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek training rides.
I'm always out early and this time of year it's dark when I leave and just
getting light when I get back. Anyone know if the Cateye opticube lights are
bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user experience
before I put my money down. Thanks.
--
Peter S
skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au

 

[Peter Signorini]

"Peter Vesel" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I recently bought one as a back up light for my main halogen light.
> There is no way I would pay the asking price you have shown though.

This is the normal RRP for this light in Melbourne shops, so anybody who
wants to buy it will have to pay this price.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7145726773
> &rd=1
>
> These work out at around A$50 including shipping, and took about 8 days to
> arrive.

Got to admit this is a great deal - almost too good to be true?? Sounds like
a bit of a 'Cash Converters' job ie a bit on the warm side.

> As far as light output goes they are really only a "be seen" light. It is
> blindingly bright
> light if you look straight into the lens, but it is very directional.
> My home made 20w 6 degree halogen light is far,far,far superior to the
> opticube
> and I would not use the opticube for anything other than a backup or just
as
> the sun comes
> up/ goes down light.

Are you talking about lighting use for around town riding on lit streets, or
for MTB night riding? Different uses requiring very different lights

Cheers
Peter

 

[[email protected]]

Peter Vesel wrote:
> "Peter S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi - I need to get some reliable light source for my midweek
training
> rides.
> > I'm always out early and this time of year it's dark when I leave
and just
> > getting light when I get back. Anyone know if the Cateye opticube
lights
> are
> > bright enough to really work? I'm looking at this one
> > http://www.deanwoods.com.au/store/prod557.htm but want some user
> experience
> > before I put my money down. Thanks.
> > --
> > Peter S
> > skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au
> >
> >
> >
>
> I recently bought one as a back up light for my main halogen light.
> There is no way I would pay the asking price you have shown though.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7145726773
> &rd=1
>
>
> These work out at around A$50 including shipping, and took about 8
days to
> arrive.
>

Hey I just bought an LD-1000 light of the same guy for AU $ 50 ($ 80-90
here in Aus), so I'm glad to know it arrived safe and well for you.



[snip]

 

[suzyj]

Peter Vesel wrote:

> As far as light output goes they are really only a "be seen" light.

Interesting how people's perceptions vary depending on what they're used to. I see 3 or 5W lights as "pretty bright", 'cos one of my big uses for lights is running from dusk through to dawn, and carrying enough batteries to power 20W of light for that long just isn't going to happen.

Try riding around for a while just with the 1W LED. Once your eyes are a little dark adapted, that sort of light is pretty good for most stuff.

Regards,

Suzy

 

[acalcium]

Peter Signorini wrote:
> "Peter Vesel" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I recently bought one as a back up light for my main halogen light.
>>There is no way I would pay the asking price you have shown though.
>
>
> This is the normal RRP for this light in Melbourne shops, so anybody who
> wants to buy it will have to pay this price.
>
>>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7145726773
>
>>&rd=1
>>
>>These work out at around A$50 including shipping, and took about 8 days to
>>arrive.
>
>
> Got to admit this is a great deal - almost too good to be true?? Sounds like
> a bit of a 'Cash Converters' job ie a bit on the warm side.


Dont think so..
I just for one from http://stores.ebay.com.au/AusCycles for $75
inclusive of GST.
However, had I known... I'd have got one (or 2) from the US.

 

[aeek]

Peter Vesel wrote:

> As far as light output goes they are really only a "be seen" light.

Interesting how people's perceptions vary depending on what they're used to. I see 3 or 5W lights as "pretty bright", 'cos one of my big uses for lights is running from dusk through to dawn, and carrying enough batteries to power 20W of light for that long just isn't going to happen.

Try riding around for a while just with the 1W LED. Once your eyes are a little dark adapted, that sort of light is pretty good for most stuff.

I have micro-LEDs as pure be-seen backups, and an L&M ARC HID as a see light.
I often cannot be seen with the HID on, motorists see the light but not past it!
Neither of these is suitable for unlit paths, the HID is too bright for oncomers who don't have a competitive light.

 

[Peter S]

> suzyj Wrote:
>>
>> Interesting how people's perceptions vary depending on what they're
>> used to. I see 3 or 5W lights as "pretty bright", 'cos one of my big
>> uses for lights is running from dusk through to dawn, and carrying
>> enough batteries to power 20W of light for that long just isn't going
>> to happen.
>>
>> Try riding around for a while just with the 1W LED. Once your eyes are
>> a little dark adapted, that sort of light is pretty good for most
>> stuff.

I just ordered a Cateye opticube from a power seller on ebay in the US. With
today's exchange rate it cost a few cents under $54 including postage. At
that price it's cheap enough to try even if it only ends up as a bright 'be
seen' light.

Thanks everyone for all the feedback.

Peter S
skypete(remove_this_bit)@iinet.net.au

 

[Parbs]

"aeek" wrote in message...
>
> I have micro-LEDs as pure be-seen backups, and an L&M ARC HID as a see
> light.
> I often cannot be seen with the HID on, motorists see the light but not
> past it!
> Neither of these is suitable for unlit paths, the HID is too bright for
> oncomers who don't have a competitive light.
>

HID lights a great on pedestrian shared paths, people get out of your way 200m away!

Parbs

 

[hippy]

Parbs wrote:
> "aeek" wrote in message...
>>I have micro-LEDs as pure be-seen backups, and an L&M ARC HID as a see
>>light.
>>I often cannot be seen with the HID on, motorists see the light but not
>>past it!
>>Neither of these is suitable for unlit paths, the HID is too bright for
>>oncomers who don't have a competitive light.
>
> HID lights a great on pedestrian shared paths, people get out of your way 200m away!

Not so good when they blind an oncoming rider who crashes, taking you out..

No, I haven't done this, but noticed some farkin' bright lights when
heading home from Hawthorn notdrome last week. A HID in my face means I
can no longer see anything _other_ than the HID light. The edges of the
path, following riders, etc. all vanish in glare.

So, anyone with powerful lights, do us a favour and aim them at the
ground.. because.. if I crash into you.. I'm heavier!

hippy

 

[TimC]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 at 08:51 GMT, Parbs (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> "aeek" wrote in message...
>>
>> I have micro-LEDs as pure be-seen backups, and an L&M ARC HID as a see
>> light.
>> I often cannot be seen with the HID on, motorists see the light but not
>> past it!
>> Neither of these is suitable for unlit paths, the HID is too bright for
>> oncomers who don't have a competitive light.
>
> HID lights a great on pedestrian shared paths, people get out of your way 200m away!

That would be nice. During the daytime?

HIDs aren't very compatible with dimmer mechanisms, from memory,
aren't they? Pity.

On another froup, I recently discussed the possibility of holding a
flourescent light under the high tension power lines along Gardiner's
Ck. Mmmm, free light.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
"`Ford, you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.'" -THHGTTG

 

[DaveB]

TimC wrote:
>
> On another froup, I recently discussed the possibility of holding a
> flourescent light under the high tension power lines along Gardiner's
> Ck. Mmmm, free light.
>

You sure you don't work for the Herald-Sun Tim (now there's an insult
for you). High tension power lines are a sore point for me having owned
a house under them. Did a lot of reading on the topic and had no health
concerns about it, but did have a major monetary concern because every
year the Herald-Sun would decide the lines were the work of the devil
and everyone should be warned of the dangers with very suspect use of
statistics. Property prices under the lines would then plummet, slowly
get back to normal just in time for the next sensationalist piece. To
sum up what I learnt: How many people living in old weatherboard houses
would realise they could have just as much risk as those in houses under
the high tension lines?

DaveB

 

[Peter Vesel]

"Peter Signorini" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Peter Vesel" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
>
> Got to admit this is a great deal - almost too good to be true?? Sounds
like
> a bit of a 'Cash Converters' job ie a bit on the warm side.
>

I've seen 4 different sellers on US Ebay selling them for around the same
price
They also sell the older model lights very cheap as well. It just looks like
there is a massive markup to sell them in Australian shops.
I feel sorry for Australian bike shop owners. How can they compete?

> Are you talking about lighting use for around town riding on lit streets,
or
> for MTB night riding? Different uses requiring very different lights
>
> Cheers
> Peter
>

All my riding is done on road. Some of it is on quiet unlit streets which
do not have the best surfaces. I want to be able to see every single bump
and hole with enough time to react when riding at speed.

When I get back into the well lit areas i want to make sure that car drivers
know I'm coming. For the short last part of my ride on the cycleway, nothing
gets pedestrians out of the way faster than them seeing their silhouette. If
another
cyclist approaches its just a matter of shifting the light a bit to the left
and it is
then out of their direct sight.

Peter

 

[TimC]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 at 10:03 GMT, DaveB (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> TimC wrote:
>>
>> On another froup, I recently discussed the possibility of holding a
>> flourescent light under the high tension power lines along Gardiner's
>> Ck. Mmmm, free light.
>>
>
> You sure you don't work for the Herald-Sun Tim (now there's an insult
> for you).

Quite a nice one too

> High tension power lines are a sore point for me having owned
> a house under them. Did a lot of reading on the topic and had no health
> concerns about it,

Sure. I don't have any health concerns either, but they do make for
pretty light displays:

http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/exclusive/2004/pylon_ambience/
http://gallery.bostonradio.org/2004-07/ord/100-02165-med.html
http://gallery.bostonradio.org/2004-09/nrcbatavia/100-02263-med.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/bristol/3509651.stm
http://www.boxyit.com/r/
(feck, take a look at the archive of the latter)

Mmmmm, shiny.

> but did have a major monetary concern because every
> year the Herald-Sun would decide the lines were the work of the devil
> and everyone should be warned of the dangers with very suspect use of
> statistics. Property prices under the lines would then plummet,

Feh. Who cares about property prices? I thought was only something
Herald Sun readers cared about?

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
If I'd known computer science was going to be like this, I'd never have
given up being a rock 'n' roll star. -- G. Hirst

 

[TimC]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 at 10:53 GMT, TimC (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/exclusive/2004/pylon_ambience/

Needless to say, with a domain like "www.pureenergysystems.com",
you're there purely for the pretty pictures. Do not attempt to read
the text. I repeat, do not attempt to read the text, or you will be
reduced to shaking your head for the next hour, wondering what the
hell humanity did to deserve these... these... idiots.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
An Emacs reference mug is what I want. It would hold ten gallons of coffee.
-- Steve VanDevender

 

[Peter Signorini]

"Peter Vesel" wrote:
>
> All my riding is done on road. Some of it is on quiet unlit streets which
> do not have the best surfaces. I want to be able to see every single bump
> and hole with enough time to react when riding at speed.

Don't want to lecture you, use the lights you feel comfortable with... but I
feel your 20W lights may be destroying your hight vision. On suburban
streets - even on less well lit backstreets - there is nearly always enough
ambient light for a good 3W halogen to light your way quite well. I don't
have problems hitting unseen bumps. YMMV though.
>
> When I get back into the well lit areas i want to make sure that car
drivers
> know I'm coming.

Any good 3W halogen reflector lensed light will do this. Most of the newer
LEDs do as well.

> For the short last part of my ride on the cycleway, nothing
> gets pedestrians out of the way faster than them seeing their silhouette.
If
> another
> cyclist approaches its just a matter of shifting the light a bit to the
left
> and it is
> then out of their direct sight.

Highlighting an advantage and a serious disadvantage of these lights around
urban bike paths. They do give great warning. But they are fairly basic
lights from an optical point of view, that blast oncoming traffic with
blinding light unnecessarily. Better lights designed for street use have a
foreshortened upper beam that focuses more light on the road while still
giving suitable non-blinding warning to oncoming traffic. My B&M Lumotec
headlight has a concentrated square of light (useless for off-road night
riding) that is just the right width to illuminate the full width of a bike
path. This also gives a brighter than normal 3W beam in this square.

So be aware that the simple wattage is not the only thing that makes a good
light for street use.

Cheers
Peter