Oxford platinum steel frame



Someone told me I would "rip derailleurs and break levers" on a CX bike, and I should save a high end groupset such as SR11 for a road bike...
 
Quote: Originally Posted by amazinmets73

I'm bidding on a couple of ultra torques on EBay. What makes power torques a poor choice?

The PowerTorque crank uses an odd-ball 15mm (?!?) Allen Wrench to secure the non-driveside arm ...

AND, you apparently need a special tool (a modified gear puller?) to remove the non-driveside crankarm if-and-when you may need to replace the bearings!

The combination is just too much of a nuisance for plain folk to deal with, IMO ...

So, why bother if you have an option?
 
Originally Posted by amazinmets73

Someone told me I would "rip derailleurs and break levers" on a CX bike, and I should save a high end groupset such as SR11 for a road bike...
Well, 11 speed Super Record is overkill for a commuter, too ...

  • nothing wrong with conspicuous consumption; but, you may want to think twice about parking your bike anywhere that you will be away from for more than 10 (?) minutes ...

  • your bike frame/wheels will be just as vulnerable to the travails of CX racing... the clear coat on the brake levers is some type of "shrink wrapped" laminate I guess that I would cover any vulnerable surface with clear packing tape (?) BEFORE each competition to minimize the consequences of impact(s)

BTW. Don't forget that you will need a T25 Torx Driver which has a 4" shaft to install your shifters + a T27 Torx Driver/(bit) to install your brake calipers.
 
alfeng said:
Well, 11 speed Super Record is overkill for a commuter, [COLOR=0000FF]too[/COLOR] ...  
  • nothing wrong with conspicuous consumption; but, you may want to think twice about parking your bike anywhere that you will be away from for more than 10 (?) minutes ...
  • your bike frame/wheels will be just as vulnerable to the travails of CX racing...
    • the clear coat on the brake levers is some type of "shrink wrapped" laminate
      • I guess that I would cover any vulnerable surface with clear packing tape (?) BEFORE each competition to minimize the consequences of impact(s)
BTW.  Don't forget that you will need a T25 Torx Driver which has a 4" shaft to install your shifters [COLOR=FF0000]+[/COLOR] a T27 Torx Driver/(bit) to install your brake calipers.  
When I leave my bike at work it's locked in a parking garage for up to 12 hours. There are security cameras, relatively high foot traffic, and I have decent locks. That said, if a skilled bike thief wants your bike, they will get it, and losing a SR11 groupset would be devastating. I like riding with high end groupsets on my bicycles because I am on the bike everyday, and want to enjoy it as much as possible. The risk of theft is one of the worst things about cycling. So, you'd go with the SR brakes instead of the Avid Ultimates?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .


When I leave my bike at work it's locked in a parking garage for up to 12 hours. There are security cameras, relatively high foot traffic, and I have decent locks. That said, if a skilled bike thief wants your bike, they will get it, and losing a SR11 groupset would be devastating. I like riding with high end groupsets on my bicycles because I am on the bike everyday, and want to enjoy it as much as possible. The risk of theft is one of the worst things about cycling.

So, you'd go with the SR brakes instead of the Avid Ultimates?

My bad ...

I was thinking of the Campagnolo's Road calipers which I presume will be a part of the mini-group you will be getting & momentarily forgot that you were setting up a CX bike ...

  • you should choose the cantilever brake calipers whose appearance satisfies your aesthetic sensibilities ... alternatively, the mini-V-brakes are an option which some people find satisfactory
  • the advantage is the elimination of the brake cable hanger
  • the disadvantage is that they probably have a dorky appearance
[*]regardless, if you need-or-want a different amount of modulation-or-feel, you can always change the brake pads.
 
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 . I won this crankset on EBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-Chorus-11-Speed-Crankset-/321468292557?_ilink=&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI321468292557.N9.S1.M-1.R1.TR18&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=PBw10r5lIeSBAg8bObiJoJU5NHo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc What do you think? And I just had to have a Campy crank for astetic purposes...

700
700
 
Alfeng, if you had a choice between a used Chorus groupset and a new Ultegra 6800, which would you choose?
 
Originally Posted by amazinmets73

Alfeng, if you had a choice between a used Chorus groupset and a new Ultegra 6800, which would you choose?
While I love Shimano, I would choose ANY 1998-or-later, used Chorus groupset over a new Ultegra 6800 group -- 24/7/365.25.

  • IMO, life is too short to put up with the "dwell" designed into Shimano's shifters unless a person is a sponsored rider "dwell" is a problem which can-and-will (probably) be remedied when the head (who was presumably amongst those who also designed the BioPace chainrings) of the engineering team retires OR the bean counters realize that the migration to SRAM by dissatisfied users looking for an upgrade which doesn't have balky shifting reaches a pre-determined (known only to them, of course) critical mass OR (possibly) when the current patents run out.
 
That was my issue with Dura Ace 7800. E
alfeng said:
While I [COLOR=008000]love[/COLOR] Shimano, I would choose ANY 1998-or-later, used Chorus groupset over a new Ultegra 6800 group -- 24[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]7[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]365.25[COLOR=FF0000].[/COLOR]
  • IMO, life is too short to put up with the "dwell" designed into Shimano's shifters unless a person is a sponsored rider 
    • "dwell" is a problem which can-and-will ([COLOR=A9A9A9]probably[/COLOR]) be remedied when the head ([COLOR=A9A9A9]who was presumably amongst those who also designed the BioPace chainrings[/COLOR]) of the engineering team retires OR the bean counters realize that the migration to SRAM by dissatisfied users looking for an upgrade which doesn't have balky shifting reaches a pre-determined ([COLOR=A9A9A9]known only to them, of course[/COLOR]) critical mass OR ([COLOR=A9A9A9]possibly[/COLOR]) when the current patents run out.
That was my issue with Dura Ace 7800, the awkward shifting. Sram was so much more comfortable
 
I won a pair of Chorus11 shifters on EBay. I think I'll equip the rest of the bike with Athena parts to save on cost...
 
amazinmets73 said:
... what cyclocross cranksets are compatible with 11-speed Campy?
IMO, any crankset should work pretty well with your 11-speed Campy shifters/etc. so you may as well use EITHER the Chorus crankset which you have OR whatever suits your aesthetic sensibilities & current budget. You only need to be certain that the crank's BB will work with your frame's Bottom Bracket shell.
 
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .Seller says English bottom bracket, 68mm shell

You can use almost any Crankset which does not use press-in bearings .... The only Crank[COLOR=FF00AA]/[/COLOR]BB combinations which I would avoid are PowerTorque & GXP.
  • I still haven't decided how I feel about the ISIS BB ... I guess I have a 'neutral' opinion about it.
So, IMO, it REALLY is a matter of your aesthetic sensibilities & wallet.
 
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .Will an 11 speed Ultegra cassette work with Campy?

The word is that the Cog spacing is close-enough that 11-speed wheelsets are interchangeable WITH THE CAVEAT that the Cog offset may be different ...
  • So, the rear derailleur's high-low stops will probably need to be changed when using an 11-speed Shimano wheel in a frame previously setup for an 11-speed Campagnolo wheel. and vice-versa ...
Of course, Shimano Cassettes will NOT fit on Campagnolo Freehubs, and vice-versa.
 
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .What's your opinion on running a 53-39 on a cross bike?

For 'CX racing' 53[COLOR=FF00AA]/[/COLOR]39 creates gearing which is much too steep (i.e., impractically high gearing which would not be used during a CX race) ...
  • strong CX riders typically had a 48t outer Chainring [COLOR=FF00AA]+[/COLOR] 39t-or-38t inner Chainring ... some CX riders now just race with a single Chainring (42t-or-44t, I presume)
For 'normal' use on the road, Why not use your Chorus crankset & its 53[COLOR=FF00AA]/[/COLOR]39 Chainrings?