Paint or Anodized??? Whats the difference?

[Angry Dad]

Hi all,
Im new here, and would like to know the difference on a Titus Paint job. I have a choice of Paint, or Anodize. Im sorry but whats the difference? There is no Titus dealer near me or Id ask them.

 

[nerv2010]

Paint is a usual spray on method for coloring the bike. Anodizing is much different and it strengthens aluminum parts. It basically electro-coats the aluminum with an outer oxide. Hope this helps!

 

[nismo driver]

would an annodized frame be lighter than a painted one?

 

[sungchang]

Hi all,
Im new here, and would like to know the difference on a Titus Paint job. I have a choice of Paint, or Anodize. Im sorry but whats the difference? There is no Titus dealer near me or Id ask them.

Angry Dad, you might get better response to this question at the following Titus forum:

http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=29

Good luck.

 

[nerv2010]

would an annodized frame be lighter than a painted one?

It would be a negligable difference.

 

[Juba]

Anodizing is much different and it strengthens aluminum parts.

This is incorrect. Heat treating a tube, frame or component is about the only way to strengthen an aluminum alloy, and most companies include a heat treating step in the manufacturing process.

An anodized finish is fairly durable however, it is bonding a colored molecule to the outer surface of the aluminum. As it has no pigments like a traditional paint, it does not fade under direct sunlight. Anodized components that appear faded is not a result of a reaction from UV light, rather it is from wearing the the top surface away. Also, the surface is the metal itself, and aluminum alloys are harder then a painted finish (it is easier to scuff a painted surface then it is to scuff an anodized surface).

Also, a good paint job (primer + color coat + finish coat) weighs about 1/4 of a lbs. A powder coated paint job (color coat baked onto a frame) weighs a lot less. But, since a powder coat has no primer, moisture can seep under the powder coat and rust the frame under the paint.

The real drawback to anodized color is there is really no way to restore an anodized coating short of having it reanodized. A simple waxing will restore some luster of a traditionally painted frame. Using a polishing compound and a buffing wheel on a drill will take most minor scuffs out of a traditional paint job and have an older bike looking shiny with a couple hours of effort.

Cheers,
Juba

 

[nerv2010]

This is incorrect. Heat treating a tube, frame or component is about the only way to strengthen an aluminum alloy, and most companies include a heat treating step in the manufacturing process.

An anodized finish is fairly durable however, it is bonding a colored molecule to the outer surface of the aluminum. As it has no pigments like a traditional paint, it does not fade under direct sunlight. Anodized components that appear faded is not a result of a reaction from UV light, rather it is from wearing the the top surface away. Also, the surface is the metal itself, and aluminum alloys are harder then a painted finish (it is easier to scuff a painted surface then it is to scuff an anodized surface).

Also, a good paint job (primer + color coat + finish coat) weighs about 1/4 of a lbs. A powder coated paint job (color coat baked onto a frame) weighs a lot less. But, since a powder coat has no primer, moisture can seep under the powder coat and rust the frame under the paint.

The real drawback to anodized color is there is really no way to restore an anodized coating short of having it reanodized. A simple waxing will restore some luster of a traditionally painted frame. Using a polishing compound and a buffing wheel on a drill will take most minor scuffs out of a traditional paint job and have an older bike looking shiny with a couple hours of effort.

Cheers,
Juba

An excellent, more thorough insight Juba.
But you're correct yet wrong on the same step.

Heat treating does strengthen an aluminum alloy but strain hardening aka. cold working can further the strength.

You're so right about Aluminum oxide(result of anodizing) being much stronger then the standard paint job. But aluminum does not rust.

Anodized parts have been around since the 1930s. Now they're huge with the R/C world and are definitely the preferred method vs standard paint. Aside from that, they look so much cooler then standard paint. I prefer anodized but to each their own.

I figured this individual was only interested in the paint strength aspects and not frame aspects. In my opinion if you're into pinching off every gram you can, then you should be on a road bike instead.

Nerv

 

[Juba]

Heat treating does strengthen an aluminum alloy but strain hardening aka. cold working can further the strength.

True, but you said anodizing strengthens the part, which has nothing to do with cold working. My comment is that the process of anodizing does nothing to strengthen the part.

In my opinion if you're into pinching off every gram you can, then you should be on a road bike instead.

Most mountain bikers spend money on upgrades purchased specifically to shave weight off their rides. If you are a serious XC racer, you are more then likely spending serious $$$ to knock off the grams. Once a rider does the basic weight reduction upgrades (tires, seat post, stem, bottom bracket, ect) it becomes exponentially more expensive to take off exponentially less weight. You don't turn a 26lbs bike into a sub 23lbs bike by upgrading one part that weighs 3lbs less. You turn a 26lbs bike into a sub 23lbs bike, taking off a quarter pound here, half pound there, and a few grams everywhere.

But aluminum does not rust.

Quite correct. I went off on a bit of a side tangent as to the dangers of a powder coated frame, but I should have qualified my statement that a steel frame can rust horribly from the moisture that can seep under the paint. Aluminum alloys do not rust, but they have the potential to show surface corrosion if not finished properly.

Now they're huge with the R/C world and are definitely the preferred method vs standard paint.

Well, the RC world uses anodized parts for the chassis plate and the nick-nacks such as tie rods, and suspension linkages. The main visible part, the outer shell is usually painted with your standard wet application spray paint.

Cheers,
Juba

 

[nerv2010]

True, but you said anodizing strengthens the part, which has nothing to do with cold working. My comment is that the process of anodizing does nothing to strengthen the part.

Yes, you're right about that but I was assuming he was only interested in the paint aspect as I aforementioned.

Most mountain bikers spend money on upgrades purchased specifically to shave weight off their rides. If you are a serious XC racer, you are more then likely spending serious $$$ to knock off the grams. Once a rider does the basic weight reduction upgrades (tires, seat post, stem, bottom bracket, ect) it becomes exponentially more expensive to take off exponentially less weight. You don't turn a 26lbs bike into a sub 23lbs bike by upgrading one part that weighs 3lbs less. You turn a 26lbs bike into a sub 23lbs bike, taking off a quarter pound here, half pound there, and a few grams everywhere.

So true again. But I'm trying to answer to the individual's case. I'm guessing if they have no clue what the difference is between anodized parts and painted parts then they're not hardcore racers. They're most likely casual riders who just want a little insight.

Quite correct. I went off on a bit of a side tangent as to the dangers of a powder coated frame, but I should have qualified my statement that a steel frame can rust horribly from the moisture that can seep under the paint. Aluminum alloys do not rust, but they have the potential to show surface corrosion if not finished properly.

They sooooo can!!! I still miss having a tank for a bike though. It was great having a heavy steel frame that other bikers could crash off of and I'd still be upright.

Well, the RC world uses anodized parts for the chassis plate and the nick-nacks such as tie rods, and suspension linkages. The main visible part, the outer shell is usually painted with your standard wet application spray paint.

Duh, because you can't anodize Lexan! Although it'd be cool to manufacture an aluminum body and anodize it for an RC car!