paint scratched steel frame

Discussion in 'UK and Europe' started by tom, Aug 10, 2005.

  1. tom

    tom Guest

    hi all,

    Looking for some advice. A friend is trying to offload a good quality
    steel-framed road bike to me, the only problem is that the steel frame has
    been scratched and lost some paint, quite large areas around the chain
    stays and forks.

    Now, my question is - is it really bad to not get a respray? I live in a
    relatively wet area (scotland!) and I want to cycle through the winter, so
    no doubt the bike will get quite wet.

    How quickly will the frame rust in the rain? Any advice?

    Thanks! Tom
     
    Tags:


  2. David Martin

    David Martin Guest

    tom wrote:
    > hi all,
    >
    > Looking for some advice. A friend is trying to offload a good quality
    > steel-framed road bike to me, the only problem is that the steel frame has
    > been scratched and lost some paint, quite large areas around the chain
    > stays and forks.
    >
    > Now, my question is - is it really bad to not get a respray? I live in a
    > relatively wet area (scotland!) and I want to cycle through the winter, so
    > no doubt the bike will get quite wet.
    >
    > How quickly will the frame rust in the rain? Any advice?


    Depends what it is made of. If it is a good quality frame then it will
    be an alloy steel that is a bit more resistant to rust than cheap
    hi-ten steel. Depending on how bad the paintwork is, it should be
    possible to give it a rub down on the worn bits and paint it with
    whatever is to hand.

    Alternatively a shotblast and powder coat will cost about 40 quid.

    If it has manufacturers lables on it indicating the grade of steel
    used, photograph them and note the manufacturer and frame number. You
    may need this to get replacements after a respray.

    ...d
     
  3. tom

    tom Guest


    > Depends what it is made of. If it is a good quality frame then it will be
    > an alloy steel that is a bit more resistant to rust than cheap hi-ten
    > steel. Depending on how bad the paintwork is, it should be possible to
    > give it a rub down on the worn bits and paint it with whatever is to hand.


    It's reynolds 501.

    > Alternatively a shotblast and powder coat will cost about 40 quid.


    Any idea of people who would do it that cheap? I might be tempted at that
    price. The only problem for me is I guess it requires deconstructing the
    cycle (ie removal of all the components), which I'd have to pay someone to
    do!


    Tom
     
  4. Tony Raven

    Tony Raven Guest

    David Martin wrote:
    >
    > Alternatively a shotblast and powder coat will cost about 40 quid.
    >


    Beadblast please!


    --
    Tony

    "I did make a mistake once - I thought I'd made a mistake but I hadn't"
    Anon
     
  5. David Martin

    David Martin Guest

    Tony Raven wrote:
    > David Martin wrote:
    > >
    > > Alternatively a shotblast and powder coat will cost about 40 quid.


    > Beadblast please!


    It is still a bead whether of lead or plastic. Modern shotblasting uses
    plastic beads becasue they are nicer, except when steel is used for
    peening the surface in certain treatments.

    Where are you Tom? then reccomendations can be made for painters.
    Alternatively just splash some car touch up paint on the worst bits and
    ride off into the sunset. It won't be as good but it'll look less
    nickable and provide reasonable protection against rust if done well.
    501 won't rust terribly quickly anyway so you should be all right for a
    few years.

    ...d
     
  6. tom

    tom Guest


    > Where are you Tom? then reccomendations can be made for painters.


    I'm in either Bristol or Edinburgh - the bike will initially be in
    Bristol, then it will move to Edinburgh next month!

    > Alternatively just splash some car touch up paint on the worst bits and
    > ride off into the sunset. It won't be as good but it'll look less nickable
    > and provide reasonable protection against rust if done well. 501 won't
    > rust terribly quickly anyway so you should be all right for a few years.


    Thanks for the advice David!
     
  7. David Martin

    David Martin Guest

    tom wrote:
    > > Where are you Tom? then reccomendations can be made for painters.

    >
    > I'm in either Bristol or Edinburgh - the bike will initially be in
    > Bristol, then it will move to Edinburgh next month!
    >
    > > Alternatively just splash some car touch up paint on the worst bits and
    > > ride off into the sunset. It won't be as good but it'll look less nickable
    > > and provide reasonable protection against rust if done well. 501 won't
    > > rust terribly quickly anyway so you should be all right for a few years.

    >
    > Thanks for the advice David!


    Edinburgh is about as damp as Bristol, if not a little drier. There are
    several powder coating places in Dalkieth which is pretty close to
    Edinburgh. Though my first option depending on condition would be to
    take off the appropriate parts, clean well, sand with emery paper or
    similar on the metal bits anbd use a car touch up kit to tidy up the
    bits that really need doing. Alternatively just leave it, or use
    something like hammerite in small doses.

    ...d
     
  8. Simon Brooke

    Simon Brooke Guest

    in message <[email protected]>, tom
    ('[email protected]') wrote:

    > hi all,
    >
    > Looking for some advice. A friend is trying to offload a good quality
    > steel-framed road bike to me, the only problem is that the steel frame
    > has been scratched and lost some paint, quite large areas around the
    > chain stays and forks.
    >
    > Now, my question is - is it really bad to not get a respray? I live in
    > a relatively wet area (scotland!) and I want to cycle through the
    > winter, so no doubt the bike will get quite wet.
    >
    > How quickly will the frame rust in the rain? Any advice?


    The better the frame, the thinner the metal, and the quicker corrosion
    will become safety critical. A respray is not expensive.

    --
    [email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    /-\ You have discovered a security flaw in a Microsoft product. You
    |-| can report this issue to our security tesm. Would you like to
    | | * Be completely ignored (default)?
    | | * Receive a form email full of platitudes about how much we care?
    \_/ * Spend hours helping us fix this problem for free?
     
  9. David Martin

    David Martin Guest

    Simon Brooke wrote:

    > > How quickly will the frame rust in the rain? Any advice?

    >
    > The better the frame, the thinner the metal, and the quicker corrosion
    > will become safety critical. A respray is not expensive.


    But there is rust and there is rust. A 501 frame will generate a
    surface layer of rust but this will take some time and will be easy to
    deal with. The frame is also likely to be plain gauge tube of 1 or
    1.2mm wall thickness, so plenty of material there to go.

    The point to start worrying about needing to do something rather than
    just wanting to is when the rust starts to flake off. Compared to the
    steel used to make car bodies, 501 and better are very rustproof
    (though not as good as stainless steel, but that has other properties
    that are not necessarily so desirable.)

    Which reminds me, I really should do something about my commuter frame
    at some point. That is in need of some TLC, and possibly a new pair of
    forks.

    ...d
     
  10. Simon Brooke

    Simon Brooke Guest

    in message <[email protected]>, David
    Martin ('[email protected]') wrote:

    > Simon Brooke wrote:
    >
    >> > How quickly will the frame rust in the rain? Any advice?

    >>
    >> The better the frame, the thinner the metal, and the quicker corrosion
    >> will become safety critical. A respray is not expensive.

    >
    > But there is rust and there is rust. A 501 frame will generate a
    > surface layer of rust but this will take some time and will be easy to
    > deal with. The frame is also likely to be plain gauge tube of 1 or
    > 1.2mm wall thickness, so plenty of material there to go.


    Yup. But at the time I wrote that the frame hadn't been identified as
    501. If it were 531c, there is very little metal there, and it doesn't
    take much visible rust around the bottom bracket of a 531 frame to be
    serious.

    --
    [email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; when in the shit, the wise man plants courgettes
     
  11. Paul Luton

    Paul Luton Guest

    In message <[email protected]>
    tom <[email protected]> wrote:

    >
    > > Where are you Tom? then reccomendations can be made for painters.

    >
    > I'm in either Bristol or Edinburgh - the bike will initially be in
    > Bristol, then it will move to Edinburgh next month!
    >

    Argos Cycles - in an industrial estate St Annes Bristol did a good job on
    my frame a few years ago. Taking all the components off is an interesting
    experience.

    Paul

    --
    CTC Right to Ride Representative for Richmond upon Thames
     
Loading...
Similar Threads - paint scratched steel
  1. Vo2
    Replies:
    16
    Views:
    6,819
  2. amazinmets733
    Replies:
    4
    Views:
    1,058
  3. Volnix
    Replies:
    3
    Views:
    1,603
  4. ROKE
    Replies:
    1
    Views:
    875
  5. ROKE
    Replies:
    7
    Views:
    1,487
Loading...