Interchangeability is a so-so issue. For the front wheel there's rim width which influences how well rim brake pads line up. It's not an immediate showstopper, but it can certainly make a wheel change less straightforward than you think(and hope for).
Rear wheels have more issues:
- unless you're running friction shifting you pretty much need to have the same (brand and) number of gears on both wheels to get the bike to shift cleanly
- even if you have the above, the positions of the rear sprockets may not line up exactly right, forcing you to some tweaking when you go from one wheel to another.
- even if you have both of the above, chain and sprockets wear together, so you may still not get away with mixing drivetrain parts any old how.
There are ways around this of course. If both wheels see about the same amount of use it can work out fine. If you keep on top of your maintenance and replace parts before they become too "individual" it can work fine. If you swap the chain as you swap the wheel it can work fine. If you swap the sprockets as you swap the wheels it'll work fine. But again it can mess with the idea of a fast and simple wheel swap.
- rears can have the same rim brake pad lineup issue as fronts.
- the overwhelming majority of MTB wheels are built for a 135 mm dropout width, but there are 130 mm ones out there. In the scale of things, this is a minor issue.
Which are "better" is pretty much an impossible call over the internet. As far as I remember Parallax were fairly low on the Shimano ladder. Still, even low-end Shimano is usually dead reliable for their intended usage.
Haven't payed much attention to Weinmann.
I'd say that the current condition and build quality has a greater influence on which is the better pair rather than what parts you have.
And while it's not impossible to mess up the bottom bracket shell it's fairly rare. Again a call that can't be made over the 'net, at least w/o pics.
In fact, if it's a cup & cone BB the odds are pretty good that it can be cleaned, lubed and adjusted back into serviceable condition again. I'd put some new balls in while I was at it as well.
Otherwise, pull the BB and install a cartridge unit and you're good to go. Do note that there are several different makes & models to chose from.
All in all, if the bike otherwise fits you, and you have the space to store it, it's probably simpler just to keep two bikes set up differently. Add fenders and rack to the one with the road tires and you have the beginnings of an utility bike as well.
Quoted post said:Originally Posted by Myosmith [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
I was just given an early 1990s Trek 800 "parts" bike and I've got some questions?
- The wheels are Shimano 26" alloy on Shimano Parallax hubs. Can these be interchanged with the 26" alloy wheels on Weinmann hubs that are currently on my 1997 Trek 820? If so, which are the "better" hubs/wheels? I'm thinking of putting my off road tires on the lesser rim/hub set and putting some decent road tires on my better rim/hubs so I can switch them out as needed.
- When you grab the cranks you can feel a lot of play in the BB. I mean lots! Does this necessarily mean the frame is shot, or just the bearings? I'm trying to decide if this bike is worth restoring (for my education and practice more than value) or if it is truly just "parts".
Thanks in advance for any answers.
