Patches if done right will last many years not a day or a year. I've had as many as 15 patches on one road tube do to goatheads, not the animal ones..., anywho, and those patches stayed on for up to 8 years before I got a hole through another patch and I said screw it.
By the way, glue on patches work really well, but all I have ever used in the the last 20 years of riding high pressure road tires as well as mountain bike tires is glueless patches, in fact the above example were ALL glueless patches! Prior to the last 20 years or so I used glue on patches for the previous 20 or so years because glueless patches hadn't been invented yet; so I started using glueless patches when 3M first came out with them and I've never looked back to glue on's. My first attempt at the glueless did fail, but since then the only ones that failed were none 3M or non Park patches. The Specialized Fatboy glueless patches use to work well but I can't find those anymore and not sure if they changed their composition since the last time I use them 15 or so years ago, but they were the same as 3M back then.
The key to success with glueless patches is using nothing but Park Super Patch glueless patches, no other brand will work for the long haul and I know this because I've tried a few including the newer Lezyne ones which I threw away after one failed in less than 24 hours. Heck for fun I once tried using the thick black Gorilla tape and it actually worked for about 24 hours, the difference with the Gorilla tape is I could peel it off without damaging the tube and having to deal with a goo on the tube like Lezyne. The Park glueless patches if done correctly cannot be peeled off without tearing the tube that's how well it adheres to the tube. Park bought out the rights from 3M which is the company that I originally started with. And with glueless patches you NEVER have to worry about opening your glue tube and find the glue all dried out.
The other key is proper preparation, which isn't much different than glue on patches. You first have to buff the tube in area slight larger than the patch will cover, only removing the sheen off the tube and not scrapping hard with the sand paper, this is the same with glue on as well. Next you clean the area with an alcohol pad to remove any tube dust from sanding the tube, this is optional with glue on but glue on patches will work better if you do this step, obviously wait till the alcohol has evaporated fully or the patch will die. Next you apply the patch by peeling it off the backing and only touching a tiny fraction of the corner of the patch, place it on by centering it over the hole then squeeze the patch on tube between your fingers and thumb as HARD as you can for 30 seconds, look at the patch, if you see frosty areas which usually the corners will be you need to squeeze those areas for 30 seconds until there is no long any frosty areas. And that's it your done. Glue on patches are easier to do for the beginner who doesn't have the preparation down quite right because the glue will cover whatever sin you committed in preparing the tube. Also with glue you have to put on a very thin layer glue in an area larger than the patch will cover then wait for it to haze over before applying the patch.
I do repair my tubes on the road instead of replacing the tube with a new one and then going home and fixing it, this is just what I do, it's not right or wrong, it's just what I prefer doing and here's why. First off I can roughly 75% of the time find the offending object in the tire before removing the tire, except I don't remove the tire completely in fact I don't even remove the wheel from the bike! That's weird huh? All you have to do is once you found the offending object or hole (by blowing the tire up with a pump if you see a hole to check to make sure the hole leaks air); you simply leave the wheel on the bike, remove about half of one side of the bead with the hole in the center portion of that half; next you pull about a 1/4th of the tube out of the half of the tire that is removed with the hole in the center area of the 1/4th; patch it; check the inside of the tire for anything sticking out and pull it out; reinstall the tube/tire back onto the rim and pump. Even if I have to remove the wheel off the bike I still prefer to fix it first if I can find the hole because I don't have to be bothered with taking the time to tightly roll the tube to get the air out to store in seat bag, by eliminating that process it takes as much time to replace tube then it does to fix the flat, and in fact if you don't have to remove the wheel it's actually faster to fix the tube than it is to replace the tube. The only time I replace a tube is if for some reason I can't find the hole after I failed to find it on the tire, and failed to find it after I took the tube out and pumped it up to find it, but not finding the leak while on the road is quite rare for me, probably 5% of the time I have to replace the tube and look for the hole later at home by pumping air into it again a listen for it by moving it across my ear or if that fails in a basin of water looking for bubbles. If you do have use a basin of water to find a hole make sure you thoroughly dry the tube before apply glue or glueless patches and prepare the tube just like I mentioned earlier. In that 5% time I have to put my spare tube in I've spent more time then another person who just went for the spare tube, but I'll beat or tie that guy 95% of the time.
People who throw away tubes after a flat I find that most of them just don't know how to patch and use the excuse that tubes are cheap to support their method, and there are riders of course that have more money then God and a tube is nothing but a couple of pennies in their pocket. But for the real world, a patch cost about 50 cents each, compare a 50 cent patch to a $7 to $9 tube...well you get the idea; but I'm a tightwad so I'm going to spend 50 cents first before I spend $7 to $9.