Pedal Dilemna! Too much choice.. not enough knowledge...

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by wcngu1, Aug 15, 2006.

  1. wcngu1

    wcngu1 New Member

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    Having trouble deciding between these pedals. Anyone tried these and been able to compare them? any advice is appreciated! If there is a pedal that I havent listed and you think its top value let me know. by the way I have sidi Energy Hi-tech CArbon shoes if that helps for compatibility =D
    Please let me know your reason for your vote =)

    thanks :)



    Campagnolo Chorus Pro - Fit Plus Pedals


    [​IMG]

    OR

    [​IMG]
    Shimano Dura Ace 7800 SPD - SL Pedals


    OR

    RPS-004 : Shimano Ultegra R-6610
    [​IMG]


    OR

    [​IMG]

    Look KEO Carbon CroMo Pedal
     
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  2. free_rideman

    free_rideman New Member

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    I would either get a shimano ultegra or Dura Ace pedal, over the LOOK pedals any day.

    Also I would recommend Time pedals. Very nice and very simillar to the SPD-SL/Look cleat system. Basically the same thing.

    There lowest model (RXE) is $60 and looks good.

    Dura Ace is just a pleasure to service and maintain. I have the Dura Ace pedals and my friend has the Time RXE pedals.

    Right now Dura Ace is on top for me since I don't know the durability of Time pedals.

    Speedplay is crap, but some people need it because of knee injuries/other injuries. Their cunstruction is mental, putting too much force on parts that should have that much force put on them. My friend has had two paires of them both wearing out in this respect.

    I know you didn't ask, but I felt like sharing anyways.
     
  3. rek

    rek New Member

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    I have used the Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals for a few years, and now use the Look KEO Carbon Cro-Mos (about 6 months so far).

    SPD-SL:
    + very stable and grippy to walk in
    + quite easy to clip in and out of by 'foot feel'

    . relatively heavy pedal system compared to what's out there now

    - the black rubber friction pad is on the pedal, not the cleat. If you don't replace this before it's too late, you ruin the pedal. Of course this wasn't written in the instruction manual (I got these when the Ultegra SPD-SLs first came out). I learnt this the hard way, cracked the shits and that's why I bought Keos as a replacement.

    Look KeO:
    + light!
    + the rubber wear-pad is on the cleat, not the pedal, so you can't kill the pedal that way. It wears along with the rest of the cleat.
    + when clipped in, they feel more firmly attached

    . they aren't quite as easy to clip in by 'foot feel' than SPD-SL. still not difficult though
    . they look cool :cool: :rolleyes:

    - the cleats are slippery-er to walk on compared to SPD-SL

    My recommendation:

    At the end of the day, the main difference I've found with these two systems is:

    a/ walkability
    b/ friction pad wear silliness

    If you see yourself having to walk a fair bit, e.g. if you regularly ride to work and have to go through a front door, foyer, up a flight of stairs, etc. before you can change shoes, go for SPD-SL. And be careful that the friction pad doesn't wear too much.

    If you're going to be 'only riding', rarely having to really do any walking more than a short distance, go the Look KeO. And be careful not to slip on polished floors ;)

    (Don't get the older Look pedals confused with the KeOs when doing your looking about, by the way. The old Look pedals are pieces of junk compared to them, or SPD-SL, for that matter)

    BTW: you can pick up any of these pedal systems you mentioned (including the Time Pedals free_rideman suggest) really cheaply from probikekit.com :) They'll save you at least 50% off what the local shops sell them for.
     
  4. wcngu1

    wcngu1 New Member

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    wow thats great advice! I dont' know much about keo's so that gave me something to think about. Which Keo would you recommend in particular? I really can't tell between them haha
     
  5. rek

    rek New Member

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    With the different versions of each pedal type, in terms of function they're all pretty much the same.. what you're paying for in the high-end versions are lighter weight and better bearings.

    I have the Look KeO Carbon with Cro-mo axle. I saw the Ti spindle one, 20 gram saving for over $100 more .. naaah I'll pass on that thanks. (Same thinking went into why I got the Ultegra SPD-SL instead of the Dura-Ace.. there comes a point where you spend silly $$$ for a marginal improvement)

    There are two other non-carbon versions of the KeO pedal, which aren't that much heavier, which are worth a look-in.
     
  6. lks

    lks New Member

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    I switched from Record to Look Keo. Record is a metal pedal and the cleat has metal. They transmit road vibration, like you would expect any metal to metal contact would do. Look Keo has no metal to metal contact and they felt like I had balsa wood pedals and cleats on, when I first installed them. I would never go back to any pedal/cleat that had metal to metal contact.
     
  7. padawan

    padawan New Member

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    +1

    I have Time RXE's - cheap, light, durable! IMHO it's the best pedal value on the market. If money is no object get the Dura-Ace pedals. But you can buy 3 or more of the RXE for the same price. That way you can put them on the multiple bikes you own :D - no switching of shoes when you switch bikes - and you'll have extra cleats for when they wear out. ALL CLEATS wear out over time.

    Pad
     
  8. Bob Ross

    Bob Ross New Member

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    Speedplay


    Uh...care to elaborate?
     
  9. John M

    John M New Member

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    I have had good success with speedplay over the past 7 years or so. It may not be the right thing for your friend, but many riders are quite satisfied with speedplay durability.
     
  10. octagon

    octagon New Member

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    Don't forget, you get 2 bearings in the cheaper pedals and 3 in the flagship carbon pedals. I'm guessing this shares the loads and enhances the lifespan a bit.

    I've got some keo's recently and have to agree that they are a big step forward frm teh old look style, which weren't exactly junk, but still a bit clumpy. The KeOs feel about as natural as any cipless pedal I've ever used, sweet.
     
  11. fauxpas

    fauxpas New Member

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    SHIMANO - ULTEGRA 6610 SPD SL [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] 4 33.33%
    SHIMANO - DURA ACE 7800 [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] 4 33.33%
    LOOK - KEO CROMO PEDALS [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] 4 33.33%


    Mwhahahahaha... typical!

    That would mean, go with the campy...:D
     
  12. wcngu1

    wcngu1 New Member

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    HAHA yeah I was hoping for an outright winner but this is proving more of a preference thing. I"m surprised Campys got no votes at all haha
     
  13. lks

    lks New Member

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    Campy's new 2007 "lighter" brakes are not out yet. They are just as strong as the 2006, but have cutouts/oval voids in the caliper arms. I read where they are called Skeletons, although I doubt Campy said that. They were used on some of this year's TDF bikes. Competition, Zero Gravity, breeds improvement!
     
  14. kleng

    kleng New Member

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    - the black rubber friction pad is on the pedal, not the cleat. If you don't replace this before it's too late, you ruin the pedal. Of course this wasn't written in the instruction manual (I got these when the Ultegra SPD-SLs first came out). I learnt this the hard way, cracked the shits and that's why I bought Keos as a replacement.

    REK

    I've found a section in my Dura-Ace pedal instructions that specifically mentions you have to replace the pedal body cover befre it becomes flush with the pedal. My Dura-ace pedals came with a another set of these plastic plates. Mine have only about 3500kms on them and the pedal covers look like they need replacing. The cleats are still going strong with no wear at all to the yellow contact points.
     
  15. lks

    lks New Member

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    I forgot to mention the cleat position memory feature, of the Keo. The cleat has two parts. There is a small rectangular plastic tab, that snaps into the bottom side of the cleat, between the cleat and your shoe sole. Once you adjust you cleat position, which can take time to do perfect, you tighten the screw in the center of this tab. You then snap in a little rubber cover, to cover this screw because you will never need to use it again. When you replace a cleat, you just remove it's three screws and pull it off the plastic memory tab, which stays screwed to your sole. When you put your new cleat on, you just snap it on to this memory tab, and your cleat is perfectly adjusted. All you have to do now is tighten it's three screws. The last cleat I replaced, took me 45 seconeds. But what was important, is that after clipping into my pedals, I had the 1/8" clearance betwwen my heel and chainstay that took a long time to adjust originally.
     
  16. rek

    rek New Member

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    Yeah, I got my SPD-SL pedals the moment they were released a few years ago, when the paperwork didn't mention that (nor did they come with a spare set of friction pads).

    The yellow contact points of the SL cleats are surprisingly durable, that's for sure.. they were one of the nifty design features which led me to those pedals in the first place.
     
  17. wcngu1

    wcngu1 New Member

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    wow its still neck and neck on all three fronts.... AND STILL NO CAMPY lol
     
  18. Bro Deal

    Bro Deal New Member

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    All three are decent pedals.

    The campy pedals are a little trickier to clip into but once clipped in they cannot accidently relase when your foot is weighted; the more weight is on the pedal, the harder it is too unclip. This is great for sprinting. They look like typical high quality campy stuff. The little magnet hole for cadence is nice if it will work with your cyclometer. The cleats wear faster than a lot of other pedals.

    The Shimano pedals are a Look knock off. Shimano went through pedal design after pedal design until Look's patent expired and then they made a copy that improves on the Delta cleat style pedals, mainly by using their expertise in forging aluminium to make the pedal sleeker and lighter.

    Look was the inventer of clipless pedals and they have been in the business since 1984. With the Keo they improved everything. The cleat memory featuer is mentioned above,. If you don't want to use that, the cleats come with these nifty cleat outline stickers that can be used to mark the position of the cleat. They improved the cleat to pedal contact area so it is greater than all the other competing pedal designs, about 40% greater than Dura Ace and Speedplay. The sole to axel distance was lowered. And the whole pedal was lightened by making everything out of plastic--err, carbon.

    11speed.com has a limited supply of the 2005 Keo carbons for $107 USD.

    I like the Keos. The pedal body has held up well. The marking get rubbed off fairly quickly and the cleat to pedal area gets scratched up, but it looks like a pair will probably last at least 40K miles before the wear becomes a problem. That is an estimate based on the 12-14K miles I have on a pair. I tend to favor one foot when unclipping to put a foot down, so one pedal is more worn than the other. I could switch feet, even out the wear, and extend the miles where worn pedals would become a problem.

    I have seen some Keos cracked in crashes. The plastic is not as tough as metal but that is the price you pay for the light weight.
     
  19. bobbyOCR

    bobbyOCR New Member

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    WE HAVE A CAMPY VOTE :eek:
     
  20. wcngu1

    wcngu1 New Member

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    Wow that gives me a great understanding of Keo's! Just a little concerned if I crash because I'm sure I WILL crash since I am just recently converting from mountain bikes to road bikes haha. I've never used clip on pedals before!!!:D
     
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