pedal removal threads L R

PEDAL REMOVAl

"When tightening or removing pedals rather than remembering which is right threaded and which is
left threaded, just point the wrench handle toward the front of the bike and push down to tighten
and point to the rear to push down and loosen." Scott Summers apo ae from the third hand catalogue

When using the following foot on pedal wrench on wood block method (FOPWOW) think backwards from the
above from Scott

&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

FOPWOW!!! REDUCING CHAIN RING IMPALEMENT!!! 30 lbs foot acre delivery at the shaft.

a large vise grips fits in the teeth of a 14/15mm wrench serving as the pedal wrench. Also possible
to use only a wrench but length helps manipulate the rig for the first time user.

clean the pedal shafts rear end with brush, utility razor, and PCBLASTER for a week: soaking,
cleaning the hind end(avoiding pulling two many atoms thru the crank threads) and soaking with
PCBlaster (allow for gravity-sit the frame on its side for soaking in a cool area)off course.

then letter smoke with the propane torch Heat hind end if seals abound or all if no
seals,tillit smokes,

place the tool on the blocks then push the pedal DO NOT turn the pedal's shaft. one does not turn
the pedal shaft.one does not turn the pedal shaft.one does not turn the pedal shaft.one does not
turn the pedal shaft.

block the wrench wood block device up from the ground. you gotta choreograph this as allowing the
crank/pedal shaft cooling time while you pull your finger out figuring this out doesn't follow...not
cool! the tool is blocked (you know tuba4's) up THEN THE MECHANIC GENTLYGENTLYGENTLY SQUEEZES DOWN
ON THE PEDAL with the left hand no dummy with a foot.and merrilymerrilymerrily the expletive deleted
comes loose a caveat! somesay extra cautions are to be used with some aluminum cranks as the foot
torque can immediatley exceed the available metallurgry

one must attentively keep in mind as he approaches the bike that threads can be left and right
handed. As above from Scott

 

On 18 Feb 2004 09:15:38 -0800, [email protected] (g.daniels) wrote:
>"When tightening or removing pedals rather than remembering which is right threaded and which is
>left threaded, just point the wrench handle toward the front of the bike and push down to tighten
>and point to the rear to push down and loosen."

Additionally, when removing the pedals, put the crank forward, so your wrench is parallel (or angled
up slightly, but will soon be parallel) to the crank arm. The result is that as you push down on the
wrench, it tries to drive the bike forward; brace the bike well and very tough pedals come out
relatively easily.

If you need to use your foot on the wrench, it becomes even easier, because then you can easily hold
the rear brake engaged while pressing the wrench with your foot.

>FOPWOW!!! REDUCING CHAIN RING IMPALEMENT!!! 30 lbs foot acre delivery at the shaft.

The method I describe may be done with boots if you've got chainring impalement issues.

>a large vise grips fits in the teeth of a 14/15mm wrench serving as

Huh? Into what 'teeth' of the 14/15mm wrench does a vise-grip fit?

>the pedal wrench. Also possible to use only a wrench but length helps manipulate the rig for the
>first time user.

Somebody seeking more leverage can use a pipe just large enough to fit the end of the wrench, or can
buy an inexpensive pedal wrench. I have a Pedro's 15mm pedal wrench that is very nice and provides
loads of leverage, and even a pleasant rubber-coated handle.

>clean the pedal shafts rear end with brush, utility razor, and

Uh huhuhuh hey beavis, you said "shaft". Then you said "rear end".

>PCBLASTER for a week: soaking, cleaning the hind end(avoiding pulling two many atoms thru the crank
>threads) and soaking with PCBlaster (allow for gravity-sit the frame on its side for soaking in a
>cool area)off course.

PCBLASTER must be a penetrating oil?

>then letter smoke with the propane torch Heat hind end if seals abound or all if no
>seals,tillit smokes,

The "first time user" of which you speak won't know if there are any seals, or for that
matter, walrii.

>place the tool on the blocks then push the pedal

I guess with the crankarm pointing backwards?

>DO NOT turn the pedal's shaft. one does not turn the pedal shaft.one does not turn the pedal
>shaft.one does not turn the pedal shaft.one does not turn the pedal shaft.

By "pedal shaft", do you mean the pedal's spindle, or the crankarm?

>block the wrench wood block device up from the ground. you gotta choreograph this as allowing the
>crank/pedal shaft cooling time while you pull your finger out figuring this out doesn't
>follow...not cool!

You mean, let it cool before you touch it? Anybody who can't figure that out...well, they probably
can't decipher your posts.

>the tool is blocked (you know tuba4's) up THEN THE MECHANIC

"What's a 2 by 4?" "Oh, a twelve piece band."

>GENTLYGENTLYGENTLY SQUEEZES DOWN ON THE PEDAL with the left hand no dummy with a foot.and
>merrilymerrilymerrily the expletive deleted comes loose a caveat! somesay extra cautions are to be
>used with some aluminum cranks as the foot torque can immediatley exceed the available metallurgry

If the torque required to remove the pedal exceeds the crankarm's strength, then you're probably
screwed no matter how you do it. You've probably also changed the properties of the metal when you
used the blow-torch a few steps back.

>one must attentively keep in mind as he approaches the bike that threads can be left and right
>handed. As above from Scott

Here's a simple way to do it, as I described at the top of this message: http://tinyurl.com/jx1x
--
Rick Onanian

 

Because this subject arises often, there is an FAQ item about it:

Subject: 8i.5 Stuck Pedal Removal

> What's the trick to removing pedals? Of the three times that I have tried to remove my pedals
> (I have two bikes and am in the process of exchanging/switching pedals) I have only succeeded
> once. The main problem is the pedals have been put on very tightly and I can't even budge the
> damn thing.

Left and right pedals have left and right threads respectively, and are best removed with a long
handled 15mm pedal wrench. Rather than using any clever wrench orientation or other methods to
determine which way to tighten or loosen pedals, use the rule that rotating "forward" (as the wheels
of the bicycle do) tightens and rotating "backward" loosens.

Pedals are often made with tight fitting threads in an effort to improve the hold of this poorly
designed mechanical interface. The intent is to prevent relative motion under load although they
move anyway. It that were not the case, the threads would not need to be left and right handed.
That they move is also apparent from damage where the pedal axle frets against the crank face, the
main causes of crank failures at the pedal eye. Besides damaging the crank face, fretting motion
depletes thread lubrication and causes galling (aka welding) so that pedals often cannot be
removed forcefully without damaging pedal shafts, wrenches, or cranks so that forceful removal
strips threads.

To remove "frozen" pedals from an aluminum crank, remove the crank and pedal from the BB spindle,
heat the pedal end of the crank over gas flame cooking stove until it sizzles to the wet touch.
Using a pedal wrench, the pedal usually unscrews relatively easily without damage. If a lubricated
pedal with clean threads does not screw in easily, a thread tap should be run through the crank to
prevent galling on insertion. This is best done on the bicycle, where the crank is held firmly by
the BB and prevented from rotation by the chain. To keep chain tension to a minimum (so the rear
wheel does not spin), keep the pedal wrench as parallel to the crank as possible rather than as an
extension to the crank.

Jobst Brandt [email protected]

 

I didn't see it mentioned yet, so I will.

Whenever possible, put the chain on the big ring when working on the drive side pedal. If the wrench
slips the chain will prevent the teeth from poking holes in your hands.

Don't ask how I learned this!

Barry

 

[email protected] wrote:
> Because this subject arises often, there is an FAQ item about it:
>
> Subject: 8i.5 Stuck Pedal Removal
>
>> What's the trick to removing pedals? Of the three times that I have tried to remove my pedals
>> (I have two bikes and am in the process of exchanging/switching pedals) I have only succeeded
>> once. The main problem is the pedals have been put on very tightly and I can't even budge the
>> damn thing.
>
> Left and right pedals have left and right threads respectively, and are best removed with a long
> handled 15mm pedal wrench. Rather than using any clever wrench orientation or other methods to
> determine which way to tighten or loosen pedals, use the rule that rotating "forward" (as the
> wheels of the bicycle do) tightens and rotating "backward" loosens.
>
> Pedals are often made with tight fitting threads in an effort to improve the hold of this poorly
> designed mechanical interface. The intent is to prevent relative motion under load although they
> move anyway. It that were not the case, the threads would not need to be left and right handed.
> That they move is also apparent from damage where the pedal axle frets against the crank face, the
> main causes of crank failures at the pedal eye. Besides damaging the crank face, fretting motion
> depletes thread lubrication and causes galling (aka welding) so that pedals often cannot be
> removed forcefully without damaging pedal shafts, wrenches, or cranks so that forceful removal
> strips threads.
>
> To remove "frozen" pedals from an aluminum crank, remove the crank and pedal from the BB spindle,
> heat the pedal end of the crank over gas flame cooking stove until it sizzles to the wet touch.
> Using a pedal wrench, the pedal usually unscrews relatively easily without damage. If a lubricated
> pedal with clean threads does not screw in easily, a thread tap should be run through the crank to
> prevent galling on insertion. This is best done on the bicycle, where the crank is held firmly by
> the BB and prevented from rotation by the chain. To keep chain tension to a minimum (so the rear
> wheel does not spin), keep the pedal wrench as parallel to the crank as possible rather than as an
> extension to the crank.
>
> Jobst Brandt [email protected]

Why does nobody ever mention using a Hex Wrench? All the pedals I have can be removed using either a
Hex Wrench or a Pedal wrench.

--
Perre

You have to be smarter than a robot to reply.

 

On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 00:11:51 GMT, "Per Elmsäter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Why does nobody ever mention using a Hex Wrench? All the pedals I have can be removed using either
>a Hex Wrench or a Pedal wrench.

I use 'em all the time, but they aren't much use if the pedal is stuck. In that case the leverage
provided by a good pedal wrench, or a good wrench with a pipe on it, is required.

Barry

 

Per Elms?ter writes:

> Why does nobody ever mention using a Hex Wrench? All the pedals I have can be removed using either
> a Hex Wrench or a Pedal wrench.

The hex socket is 6mm while the wrench flats are 15mm. The difference in strength of a 6mm Allan
wrench and a 15mm pedal wrench is about
4:1. I don't think a 250mm extension on a 6mm hex key could be expected to work. Most pedal
wrenches have at least a 250mm long handle. Since pedals are notoriously difficult to remove,
the hex wrench is usually not an option.

Jobst Brandt [email protected]

 

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Per Elms?ter writes:
>
> > Why does nobody ever mention using a Hex Wrench? All the
pedals I
> > have can be removed using either a Hex Wrench or a Pedal
wrench.
>
> The hex socket is 6mm while the wrench flats are 15mm. The
difference
> in strength of a 6mm Allan wrench and a 15mm pedal wrench is
about
> 4:1. I don't think a 250mm extension on a 6mm hex key could be expected to work. Most pedal
> wrenches have at least a 250mm
long
> handle. Since pedals are notoriously difficult to remove, the
hex
> wrench is usually not an option.

It is sometimes the only option with certain models of Time and Shimano (and probably other) pedals
that do not have wrench flats and use only a 6 or 8mm hex fitting. This was another "advance" in
technology -- eliminate the wrench flats to move the pedal body closer to crank, presumably to
increase lean angle. -- Jay Beattie.

 

[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Per Elms?ter writes:
>
> > Why does nobody ever mention using a Hex Wrench? All the pedals I have can be removed using
> > either a Hex Wrench or a Pedal wrench.
>
> The hex socket is 6mm while the wrench flats are 15mm. The difference in strength of a 6mm Allan
> wrench and a 15mm pedal wrench is about
> 4:1. I don't think a 250mm extension on a 6mm hex key could be expected to work. Most pedal
> wrenches have at least a 250mm long handle. Since pedals are notoriously difficult to
> remove, the hex wrench is usually not an option.

My MTB has Crank Brothers' Mallet C pedals. There are no wrench flats. I do not use a hex key, but a
hex *socket* with 1/2" drive. Like this:

http://www.jmtools.com/details.asp?Itemid=07-1024

The socket wrench lever arm provides plenty of torque, and the hex sockets allow me to use a torque
wrench to get the pedals "tight enough, but not too tight."

These things work great for almost all the bike fasteners. Crank bolts, stem and bar bolts, and all
to the proper torque. I really like using a socket wrench on the stuff that has to be done up tight.

Regards,

R.F. Jones.

 

remove the chain from the CR. god help us. buy a propane torch. do not leave the torch burning or
shut off as some don't use red loctite on the pedal shaft threads. the stuff crumbles when heated
and lubes the threads unthreading. the fopwow method is folprof. but use the foot. the foot pushes
down on the pedal(down as in opposite of up) while the wrench rests on a wooden block. red loctite
teaches organization. and resolve.regard all red loctite with extreme suspicion. visegrips mate
wrench: good too! place the grips into the wrench jaws and clamp onto the wrench shaft. always use
an open end wrench here. use the foot not your head.

 

On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:49:38 -0800, "Jay Beattie"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> handle. Since pedals are notoriously difficult to remove, the hex wrench is usually not an
>> option.
>
>It is sometimes the only option with certain models of Time and Shimano (and probably other) pedals
>that do not have wrench flats and use only a 6 or 8mm hex fitting. This was another "advance" in
>technology -- eliminate the wrench flats to move the pedal body closer to crank, presumably to
>increase lean angle. -- Jay

Egg Beaters have no wrench flats. The body isn't close to the crank, though; there's room for two
wrenches in that space, but the spindle appears thinner than 15mm, and maybe they would have had to
make it thicker to work well with wrench flats...
--
Rick Onanian

 

Rick Onanian wrote:
> Egg Beaters have no wrench flats.

Mine do.

Bill "two pair" S.

 

Just helped my buddy put on his Lance DA pedals - 8mm allen, no wrench flats. There's a little room in there for a wrench, but it's pretty close. Maybe the spindle is too big for a 15mm and they didn't want to require a new tool for a bigger fit.

 

u crack me up. and so does everyones serious response

heheh

david

"g.daniels" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> remove the chain from the CR. god help us. buy a propane torch. do not leave the torch burning or
> shut off as some don't use red loctite on the pedal shaft threads. the stuff crumbles when heated
> and lubes the threads unthreading. the fopwow method is folprof. but use the foot. the foot pushes
> down on the pedal(down as in opposite of up) while the wrench rests on a wooden block. red loctite
> teaches organization. and resolve.regard all red loctite with extreme suspicion. visegrips mate
> wrench: good too! place the grips into the wrench jaws and clamp onto the wrench shaft. always use
> an open end wrench here. use the foot not your head.

 

after the uh shaft comes out. yeah!! orgasmic dude!! clean threads with old athletic sock cut into
strips. the insides soaked in solvent are ace. thread an old sock strip soaked in paint thinner into
the hole. thread the strip around. stay upwind.this stuff is deadly stupid. people die from it. just
takes awhile. remove strip. if yawl have acetone. thread another old strip in and then then pour a
bit of acetone on it both sides walk away upwind and let set for???? coffee break. Cut an old
spoke(not the Ti), bend tip with lineman's pliers available at the hardware store to 90 degress
after filing a nice diamond tip to the biz end or a curved tip. spokes file exceptionally well.
remove acetoned sock. carve out the factory or yawl's locktite from the crank's threads.with the
spoke.duhduhduh let dry. shake red loctite tube squeeze bottom. find shaft wrench. find shaft
wrench.xpletive deleted shaft wrench. place shafte wrench immediatley adjacent wrench hand. for
example if yawl left handed, place the shaft wrench near the left hand. thread the dry shaft in for
a dry run. examine your situation. are the ants crawling up yawl leg? is the coffee boiling over?
run locktite onto the crank threads.run locktite onto the shaft threads. screw shaft in. tighten
shaft tight. paws. tighten again squeeze down on it a bit and hold 3-4 secs. allow cure. run linseed
over the shaft and cranc k both sides. turn bike on side and let linseed run up to the seals. how
can yawl tell?? see 7-8 speed adaptors in search bike tech.

 

On 23 Feb 2004 08:57:14 -0800, [email protected] (g.daniels) wrote:
>after the uh shaft comes out. yeah!! orgasmic dude!!

Easy there, gene...this is a family newsfroup.
--
Rick Onanian

 

g.daniels wrote:
> after the uh shaft comes out. yeah!! orgasmic dude!! clean threads
-snip clean pedal threads; pedal installation -
> let dry. shake red loctite tube squeeze bottom.
-snip not as good as Gene's "chicken blood" wheel truing directions [27 Sept, 2002] but pretty
good anyway-

Why not just grease the thread?

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

Why not just grease the thread? asks ace muzi! well. the theives will not remove the red locktited
set the loctite waterproofs the threads inside. the linseed outside. and when heated for removal,
the crumbled locktite lubes the "threads unthreading" and off course, no unscrewing when least
wanted or most wanted!

 

G? Daniels writes:

> Why not just grease the thread? Asks ace muzi! Well. the theives will not remove the red locktited
> set the loctite waterproofs the threads inside. the linseed outside. And when heated for removal,
> the crumbled locktite lubes the "threads unthreading" and off course, no unscrewing when least
> wanted or most wanted!

Well that scenario doesn't hold water, so to speak. Pedal thieves, just as the rest of us, use a
pedal wrench to remove pedals. Loctite doesn't prevent pedal fretting either so the pedal breaks
loose from the Loctite anyway and water can intrude if it wants to but then water in these threads
has never been a problem for the kind of pedals if the thread is lubricated on installation.

Jobst Brandt [email protected]

 

well. a thought occured to me on greaser muzi's post and that is grease evaporates and washes off
in water. posts appear touting this grease or that grease for use on threads. As the greasers
seem to inspect the bolts for grease put thereon, its my geuss the greasers then at that time add
more grease??

then JB. and i want to get up and dance dance dance. a post with grate rythem. tis' the season!!

red loctite liberally applied and the pedals do not come off unless heated to 270 degrees. That
factor reduces pedal theft. Have i suffered a pedal theft. Yup. a try anyway. The redloctite applied
lioberally seqls the interior threads the outside is left up to the owner. gotta cover the loctite
with something waterproof.

neverseize and a combination of neversieze and linseed or plain linseed on greased threads is
probabley more effective than just "grease" even silicone grease. if the pedals gotta come off...
but if the pedals do not need routine switching with other sets then the one on there might as well
stay on there till worn out then removed with ease not the standard snafu well heard here.

inspect the pedals spin before installation and after breakin for JB's bearing preload
qualifications. The pedals i installed recently, leading to this outburst, spun with a
rising/falling pitch-elliptical bearing path-and probably need a rebuild with new bearings and
teflon grease once the factory setup seats. not Brown's these pedals are really smooth. like we shud
all go over to haris and roll his bearings! think i'll try the bon ami grinding compound breakin.