Pedal Removal
- Thread starter chasbwdc
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chasbwdc said:Any advice on how to remove a stuck pedal? I am using a performance pedal wrench and I am aware of the reverse threading on the left side. Nothing I see to do will loosen these pedals!
Try this link to the park tool website:
Park Tool Website
If all you try after that doesn't loosen, the threads may have seized to the crank. Try getting what's called Liquid Wrench, sold at most hardware stores. Spray some into the threads on both sides of crank arm, let set up for a while & try again. Whatever you do, be careful as the arms are aluminum and most pedal threads are steel, thus harder.
When you re-install the pedals place a bit of grease on the threads. This will prevent future seizing.
You probably need MORE LEVERAGE.chasbwdc said:Any advice on how to remove a stuck pedal? I am using a performance pedal wrench and I am aware of the reverse threading on the left side. Nothing I see to do will loosen these pedals!
Presuming you are attempting to turn the pedal's spindles in the correct direction, then you may need a 18"-to-24" long CHEATER BAR ... hopefully, not longer!
Cover the outside of the crank arms with some duct tape to protect them from scuffing ...
Then, depending on the specific pedal wrench that you have, slip a piece of steel/copper pipe which will sleeve over the pedal wrench ...
AGAIN, be sure you are attempting to turn the pedal's spindle in the correct direction -- clockwise on the LEFT pedal & counter-clockwise on the RIGHT pedal!
BTW. IF the crank arms are NOT mounted, then mount them on the appropriate BB & in a frame.
Anti-Seize compound will work better doing that. It's a silvery goop that comes in either a tube or a plastic tub.strings&gears said:
I'd recommend using an electric heat gun instead of the torch, it's safer and less likely to discolor your cranks. I had to do that earlier in the year after I got my Look pedals, along with using a big giant Park Tools Cone Wrench.jhuskey said:If all else fails you can use heat. I have used a simple propanes torch to carefully heat the pedal threads. I recommend staying away from acetylene cutting torches.
Btw: If it is a carbon crank forget waht I suggested.
Some good suggestions here, but my first tool for a stubborn pedal is a machinists' hammer. It may be a scary thought to some, but have found the impact from a modest tap or two on the wrench is usually all it takes to loosen stuck threads. Hold the wrench and crank arm firmly with your other hand while tapping, or get a helper. Use caution of course. If a few reasonable blows doesn't do it, then would try penetrating oil overnight, followed with a repeat with the hammer taps.
Any advice on how to remove a stuck pedal? I am using a performance pedal wrench and I am aware of the reverse threading on the left side. Nothing I see to do will loosen these pedals!
If you can get the crank off it makes life easier. I have used this technique a few times. You probably have what they call crystal welding between the parts.
Warm the crank with a blowtorch to above hand hot. Dribble something like WD40 on the pedal threads from both sides of the cranks. Leave for to cool and repeat. Aluminium and steel expand at different rates.
Now try the spanner again. To do this with the crank of the bike, stand on the side of the crank and apply the spanner. You could put the crank in a large vice or workmate. You could try hitting the end of the spanner (loosen and tighten) to free the threads. I once removed a pedal that took 2 of use, one to hold the workmate down and me turning the spanner. I had to use a large steel extension on the spanner!
If this fails bung it in a plastic bag and put it in a freezer for a few hours. When you get it out, warm the crank and quickly try to turn the spindle. Good luck
Grease the threads before fitting the pedals.
If you can get the crank off it makes life easier. I have used this technique a few times. You probably have what they call crystal welding between the parts.
Warm the crank with a blowtorch to above hand hot. Dribble something like WD40 on the pedal threads from both sides of the cranks. Leave for to cool and repeat. Aluminium and steel expand at different rates.
Now try the spanner again. To do this with the crank of the bike, stand on the side of the crank and apply the spanner. You could put the crank in a large vice or workmate. You could try hitting the end of the spanner (loosen and tighten) to free the threads. I once removed a pedal that took 2 of use, one to hold the workmate down and me turning the spanner. I had to use a large steel extension on the spanner!
If this fails bung it in a plastic bag and put it in a freezer for a few hours. When you get it out, warm the crank and quickly try to turn the spindle. Good luck
Grease the threads before fitting the pedals.
If you are going to replace and discard the old pedals try the following. Extract the crank arm with the pedal in place. Remove all of the movable parts of the pedal so that all that you have left is the axle. Tighten a stout vise well mounted to a bench down on the flats of the pedal axle. Give the crank arm a "home run baseball bat type wack" with a large hard rubber hammer. Works every time!
chasbwdc said:Any advice on how to remove a stuck pedal? I am using a performance pedal wrench and I am aware of the reverse threading on the left side. Nothing I see to do will loosen these pedals!
Two options for easy removal:
1. Put the pedal wrench on the pedals as shown in the Park Tools link, get someone to hold the bike (or lean it up against a wall and apply the brakes) and stand on the pedal wrench. You can put all your weight on the wrench. Bouncing on it will increase peak force.
2. If there's a 8mm allen wrench/key fitting on the inside of the pedal axle, get a 8mm allen key socket that'll fit on the end of a breaker bar and use that instead.
Because you have a narrower bar to work with it's way easier to get a MOABB (Mother of all breaker bars - aka long steel pipe) over the end for some really serious leverage. If you get to this level of violence you might want to consider placing the crank in a vice (between two blocks of wood covered in course/grippy cotton). If the crank survives then the protection may help. I'd hate to think what 500+lb/ft of torque applied to a pedal axle and the subsequent forces imparted on the frame would end up doing...
3. If none of the above work and you have an expensive crank then call it quits on the pedal and find your local machine shop and have them drill the fcuker out.
Personally, I'd apply heat to steel parts all day, every day, until the cows come home yada yada... but not to the aluminum they use for bike cranks and especially not carbon cranks with bonded aluminum inserts for the pedals. It's all fun and games when you think you've done a good job only too lose your testicles on the crossbar and your teeth on the road when said crank goes 'pop'. I value my 'wedding tackle' more than a set of cranks...
Assume you know the RH pedal has RH threads, so you turn the wrench anti-clockwise to loosen. Also assume you've broken the thin cone wrenches, not a wider 15mm open end.
First advice would be to get a better wrench. A real pedal wrench will give you plenty of leverage, and won't break. But if a regular 15 mm open end isn't too wide to fit, you could try that. A couple of taps with a hammer usually does the trick.
Or, just take it to your LBS....it's what they do.
First advice would be to get a better wrench. A real pedal wrench will give you plenty of leverage, and won't break. But if a regular 15 mm open end isn't too wide to fit, you could try that. A couple of taps with a hammer usually does the trick.
Or, just take it to your LBS....it's what they do.
dhk2 said:
What he said. The Rt. pedal threads are turned not unentirely anti-clockwise. A big wrench fixes most things in life (even a recalcitrant wife). Another option before going to the LBS would be to try some penetrating oil on the threads iffin' all other measures fail.
As dhk2 said, a pedal wrench is big help. I've yet to be unable to remove a pedal with a pedal wrench.
Cursing helps a lot, too.
Thanks, yea I got the left one off no prob. but the right won't go (It's lefty loosey, I know). I sprayed WD40 and nothing. Also snapped allan wrench as well. I do'nt want to go and buy a pedal wrench, cause after this take-off, I won't need it anymore (the Looks don't use one).
When you end up mounting your new pedals, don't forget to put grease or some anti-seize. What kind of cranks do you have? Sometimes, depending on the design, the threaded insert for the pedal, in a CF crank arm, can come loose with aggressive wrench action on a pedal.
