PeterSig - re: Generator lights -- Thank you!!



B

Bill the Cat

Guest
I began looking at the Schmidt SON gear and I have instantly fallen out of
love with the Torpedo 7 lead battery set up.

I probably won't get a new front wheel made up but the 6 &12 volt
arrangements look pretty enticing. Ha! It's only money after all.

I saw one of the SON hubs the other day on a cycle path near me in Brizzie,
and I thought they were using a motor bike hub or something - I wanted to
ask about it but I just could not catch him!!!

So now I know: a whole new world just opened up. I just spent hours reading
everything on them on the Peter White cycles site. Wow!

Thanks again.

BtC
 
In aus.bicycle on Fri, 11 Apr 2008 15:37:11 GMT
Bill the Cat <[email protected]> wrote:
> I began looking at the Schmidt SON gear and I have instantly fallen out of
> love with the Torpedo 7 lead battery set up.


Heheh. welcome to the light side!

stkildacycles.com.au is the place to get 'em in Oz.

6v is all you need, most of the stuff available is 6v.

You could go for a bottle dynamo if you don't want to build a wheel,
not quite as good in the wet and there is some drag when it's on is all.

I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus which is an LED light that decides
when it is low light conditions and switches itself on. Instant light
in underpasses :) I also use a rear light driven from the dynamo (and
linked to the front, so it goes on when the front does) after getting
home one day to discover that my battery rear flasher had enough
battery to flash strongly for about 5 minutes after it was turned
on...

Zebee
 
Zeebee:

Did you get a wheel built? If so, can you give me a rough ballpark?

Thanks,

BtC
 
In aus.bicycle on Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:46:49 GMT
Bill the Cat <[email protected]> wrote:
> Zeebee:
>
> Did you get a wheel built? If so, can you give me a rough ballpark?


Yes, but it was a while back. I just got it done again but I bought a
new rim into the bargain so I really can't tell you the cost of the
build alone.

Note that you will be up for the cost of spokes too. So ring your LBS
and say "How much to build this hub into my wheel then?"

I'd say you'd have to budget at least 2 hours labour.

Zebee
 
Zebee Johnstone wrote:
> In aus.bicycle on Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:46:49 GMT
> Bill the Cat <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Zeebee:
>>
>> Did you get a wheel built? If so, can you give me a rough ballpark?

>
> Yes, but it was a while back. I just got it done again but I bought a
> new rim into the bargain so I really can't tell you the cost of the
> build alone.
>
> Note that you will be up for the cost of spokes too. So ring your LBS
> and say "How much to build this hub into my wheel then?"
>
> I'd say you'd have to budget at least 2 hours labour.
>
> Zebee

Cheaper to buy
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel...bs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208127272&sr=8-1
 
Patrick Keogh wrote:
> Zebee Johnstone wrote:


>> Note that you will be up for the cost of spokes too. So ring your
>> LBS and say "How much to build this hub into my wheel then?"
>>
>> I'd say you'd have to budget at least 2 hours labour.


> Cheaper to buy
> http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel...bs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208127272&sr=8-1


A great book and it's helped me rebuild a few wheels. But, when I'm
confronted by a rim and a hub and have decided on a 3 cross, how do I decide
what length spokes to buy for each side of the hub?

Theo
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Theo Bekkers" <[email protected]> wrote:

> when I'm
> confronted by a rim and a hub and have decided on a 3 cross, how do I decide
> what length spokes to buy for each side of the hub?


You Google for 'spoke length calculator'.

--
Shane Stanley
 
On Apr 14, 9:21 am, Shane Stanley <[email protected]>
wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Theo Bekkers" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > when I'm
> > confronted by a rim and a hub and have decided on a 3 cross, how do I decide
> > what length spokes to buy for each side of the hub?

>
> You Google for 'spoke length calculator'.


Then go to the LBS with rim and hub and ask for spokes for them..
they'll redo the calc for you.. and you can check that you both came
up with the same set of numbers.

duncan
 
Duncan wrote:

> Then go to the LBS with rim and hub and ask for spokes for them..
> they'll redo the calc for you.. and you can check that you both came
> up with the same set of numbers.


Lol, you have a lot more faith in your LBS that I have in mine.
 
I'd like to mention the Shimano DH-3N71 hub. Much, much cheaper than the Schmidt, but almost as good.

I've had one on my commuter for ages, and it's bloody good gear.
 
"Patrick Keogh" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Zebee Johnstone wrote:
>> In aus.bicycle on Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:46:49 GMT
>> Bill the Cat <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Zeebee:
>>>
>>> Did you get a wheel built? If so, can you give me a rough ballpark?

>>
>> Yes, but it was a while back. I just got it done again but I bought a
>> new rim into the bargain so I really can't tell you the cost of the
>> build alone.
>>
>> Note that you will be up for the cost of spokes too. So ring your LBS
>> and say "How much to build this hub into my wheel then?"
>>
>> I'd say you'd have to budget at least 2 hours labour.
>>
>> Zebee

> Cheaper to buy
> http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel...bs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208127272&sr=8-1


The Art Of Wheel Building - Gerd Schraner.
 
Bill the Cat said:
Zeebee:

Did you get a wheel built? If so, can you give me a rough ballpark?

Thanks,

BtC

Typical quotes I have been given are $30 to build + $1 per spoke.

I have built a few using Sheldon Brown's instruction and the spocalc excel sheet (by Damon Rinard) acessed (I think) through Sheldon's pages.

With a new rim and spokes I would say it's easier to build a wheel than true up an old one - as one who is usually trying to recycle some old bits.

RoryW
 
Rory Williams wrote:

> With a new rim and spokes I would say it's easier to build a wheel than
> true up an old one - as one who is usually trying to recycle some old
> bits.


Yep, the spokes on a new wheel are usually similar in response. Very
hard with spokes of various ages and load histories.

Also, always store nipples with the spoke they belong to.
 
On Apr 14, 5:54 pm, Terryc <[email protected]> wrote:
> Duncan wrote:
> > Then go to the LBS with rim and hub and ask for spokes for them..
> > they'll redo the calc for you.. and you can check that you both came
> > up with the same set of numbers.

>
> Lol, you have a lot more faith in your LBS that I have in mine.


Ahh yes... well it pays to visit an LBS that you trust.

I see the spoke calculation as a sort of test. .. if they don't come
up with something like your numbers (that you've double checked on as
many spoke calculators that you can find), then they lose a point.
 
I would say build a wheel with new rim and spokes to the hub, and then you have your current wheel as a backup, even though without dynohub for use in emergency or for when you don't need the dyno, or you can sell off, eg on ebay etc., as a complete wheel.

Mike
 
Duncan wrote:

>>Lol, you have a lot more faith in your LBS that I have in mine.

>
>
> Ahh yes... well it pays to visit an LBS that you trust.
>
> I see the spoke calculation as a sort of test. ..


Actually, around here, having loose spokes is the test. I just travel
into town and buy batches when I need to.