Pitted cones and shells--just how bad is it?

[kh6zv9]

Organization:

g.daniels <[email protected]> wrote:
: further, after getting back to the garage, occured to me that fondling the new deore lx hub i got
: thru the mail would evidence the desired preload?? this assumes that quality control at the
: shimano deore hub factory(which could be in lower slovenia?) is up to spec. also assumes that this
: preload is the preload JB and friends are suggesting?

I think you will find that brand new Shimano hubs come out of the factory with very little grease
and the bearings are cranked down way to tight in many cases.

--------------------------------
Bob Masse' [email protected]
--------------------------------

 

[A Muzi]

"g.daniels" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> further, after getting back to the garage, occured to me that fondling the new deore lx hub i got
> thru the mail would evidence the desired preload?? this assumes that quality control at the
> shimano deore hub factory(which could be in lower slovenia?) is up to spec. also assumes that this
> preload is the preload JB and friends are suggesting? ANYWAY, the preload i have with this deore
> hub does bearing rumble lightly which is according to my experience, not necessarily by any means
> the truth in bearing adjustments(boy you said a mouthful) too much tightness by a few degrees. OR
> IS IT? a recently read authority, i forget where, suggests unscrewing the hubs as received as THIS
> preload by the factory is induced to qualify the assembley as being shippable and that the actual
> running preload will be less than the shipping OR the used a shipped preload will increase and
> accelerate wear there i asked for expert cawment on this but they're off somewhere else. the
> shipped preload, if defined by the authorities both for and against iza good bench mark for the do
> it yourselfur.always go down or up to the LBS and ask for a hub fondling session. fondle the deore
> then try the d uraace. if you live near AMUZi, go over and ask for an antiquo campy straight up.

You might ask at your LBS. We end up with more small fasteners than we'll ever use in some sizes
such as the 5mm screw that holds your carrier to the frame end. It isn't likely that your foundling
screws will be metric, although an SAE #10-32 is pretty close and might be OK in that application.

Metric screws with a six-sided head are DIN#933. The standard height nut for it is DIN#934. Nylock
nuts are DIN#985. The most common cap screw ( Round head with an allen broach inside) is DIN#912.
There are other allen head cap screws (various heights and shapes).

Gene, is English your first language?
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

[A Muzi]

"g.daniels" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> further, after getting back to the garage, occured to me that fondling the new deore lx hub i got
> thru the mail would evidence the desired preload?? this assumes that quality control at the
> shimano deore hub factory(which could be in lower slovenia?) is up to spec. also assumes that this
> preload is the preload JB and friends are suggesting? ANYWAY, the preload i have with this deore
> hub does bearing rumble lightly which is according to my experience, not necessarily by any means
> the truth in bearing adjustments(boy you said a mouthful) too much tightness by a few degrees. OR
> IS IT? a recently read authority, i forget where, suggests unscrewing the hubs as received as THIS
> preload by the factory is induced to qualify the assembley as being shippable and that the actual
> running preload will be less than the shipping OR the used a shipped preload will increase and
> accelerate wear there i asked for expert cawment on this but they're off somewhere else. the
> shipped preload, if defined by the authorities both for and against iza good bench mark for the do
> it yourselfur.always go down or up to the LBS and ask for a hub fondling session. fondle the deore
> then try the d uraace. if you live near AMUZi, go over and ask for an antiquo campy straight up.

I apologize for cutting/pasting a reply to a different post.

Shimano hubs, as delivered, are devoid of grease and, like many robitically assembled things,
awfully darn tight.

Open the hub from the left. Lock the right cone against the locknut. Fill the bearing tracks with
grease. Oil the axle threads. Adjust the hub to a slight trace of play and lock the left locknut
against the left cone. Oil the cam of the skewer.

Now slip that hub into a frame and secure the quick release as you normally
do. Notice how the play disappears? By repeating this simple test at various bearing clearances,
you can get a very good understanding of the effect of the skewer on a hub bearing. Ideally you
want a slight preload which is not "hub flops side to side" nor is it "bearings firmly crushed
into the bearing surfaces".

One cannot effectively evaluate a hub adjustment until the locknuts are tight and until the skewer
is closed.
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

[G.Daniels]

THE FACTORY SHIPPED SHIMANO HUB IS TO TIGHT!!!!!!CHECK IT OUT AT THE LBS

the skewer eliminates the "slight play" in the diy reassembled hub/axle.

and that's the preload spec!

do your bearings rumble a bit as J.brandt writes? to split the hare hear, the shimo shipped rumbles
bearings but what we're looking for here is no rumble without the skewer but crushing the unit with
the skewer gives a setting that with one more tweak tighter gives bearing rumble or with bearing
rumble(soas not to go beserk obssessed before lunch)one tweak less gives no bearing rumble?

awww! but i don't use skewers. i use gooed tubes.

now what about the eccentricity of used parts vs. concentric/regular new parts?????????????? use
less torque, say two tweaks less? thnaks, iyam much relieved.

 

[G.Daniels]

Irregularity? we(we who?) assume the closer the unit is to new or at least less worn the closer the
preload gets to ideal and the more irregular or worn the unit goes, the further the preload goes
from the position of applying enough force to locate more of the bearings onto the cone AND that the
continuing wear under load/mileage brings the unit's post-preload adjustment with the used unit
begun with more rapidly out of whack withnthe intended preload: whew! so a new unit with "preload"
as stated by J.Brandt actually lasts some distance unless abused carrying the woodstove while the
preload with a used unit goes out of whack quickly, the distance from the tight preload may be
greater than the distance from a less loaded beginning adjustment with the latter more effective in
total wear and effective milage run until the next adjustment. yeahyeahyeah- but the question was
and continues-where is the golden moment here? bats me? any suggestions?