Please help: Nimbus range warrenty????



S

sp4rky-m4rky

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Does UDC have a warranty on there products?

I bought a 2007 nimbus X freestyle uni just over a week ago. I
assembled it taking great care that the pedals were on the right side
(as I know it is easy to strip the thread if they are fitted
incorrectly) then after riding it for a day I removed the pedals (which
were fine) one at a time, applied locktight and then fitted them back
on tightened them up then leaving them over night.

But a couple of days ago I notest my left pedal wobble slightly. I
hopped off straight away and gave it a wobble and sure enough it was
loose. I went up to my garage again and put a turn on it (not the bird
:D ) It was stiff trying both ways, this made me worried, knowing there
wasn’t much that could be done if it was stripped or cross threaded I
tried it again and this time it just span and did not tighten. I
stopped there and went out to practice my ww and gliding and to gather
my thoughts.

After a good session I went back up to the garage with one thing on my
mind, remove the pedal. I span it and span it and span it but it did
not move, just got looser. Knowing the crank was aluminum and the pedal
was sure to be stronger I hopped at least the pedal would be fine and
that hopefully I could just get a replacement crank.

I got the pedal off and it appears fine apart from some aluminum from
the crank stuck in the thread (hopefully I can remove this) the crank
however is completely stripped :(

Do you know if there is a warranty on the nimbus unicycles that will
cover this? I will pay for a new crank (and maybe pedal) if I have to
but seeing as there was nothing I have done wrong I believe I shouldn’t
have to.

What are your thoughts?


--
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hi all,

just wondering what's happened over at fluck, who's come where and what
in whatever competition.

regardin your problem, i reckon UDC can sort ya out, i heard good stuff
about the UK one but not the US.. Just talk to em and explain the
problem and they should be able to help. they arent like most bike
shops where they dont give a ****


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manicpanicmuni wrote:
> hi all,
>
> just wondering what's happened over at fluck, who's come where and what
> in whatever competition.



You really should have created your own thread for that...

Marky, are you sure the wobble was coming from where the pedal meets
the crank? Sometimes cheaper plastic pedals wobble a bit on their axle
while still being tight at the crank. Which color loctite did you use?


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mscalisi wrote:
> We only need one 36" rim, one that doesn't suck. A properly sized KH rim
> (like the 29er only larger) would be awesome.



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Brian O. wrote:
> Marky, are you sure the wobble was coming from where the pedal meets the
> crank? Sometimes cheaper plastic pedals wobble a bit on their axle
> while still being tight at the crank. Which color loctite did you use?




Yea I am sure, I have removed the pedal now, took alot, It just span
and didnt move. I think I may be able to get away with just a new crank
but it depends if I can clean up the thread on the pedal or not. I have
emailed UDC about it now but have not had a reply back yet :( At least
I can still ww and glide on it for now and I still have my KH :)


--
sp4rky-m4rky

you may be lucky but you make your own luck

*)--360--O* The Unispin Elite

)---'O, Crankflip
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learning 180 or 360 unispins? watch my 'video tutorial'
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look at the pedal you took off. Does it have an "L" or an "R" on it? I'm
wondering if you may have put the pedals back on the wrong sides when
you took them off to loctite them.


--
banjo_gun_snake_wheels

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What kind of riding were you doing on it? If it was pretty normal
freestyle type stuff then I think you have every right to expect a
replacement, when i bust a crank a few years ago on my nimbus muni UDC
UK shipped me another overnight without hesitation, and when i got a
defective pair on my N36 that twisted when i still-stood at the lights
again they again shipped me replacements without delay.


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I didnt do anything other than freestyle on it. I phoned UDC and they
sent me a new one half price. They said that there is no warrenty that
covers that because they are often fitted incorectly. Although I did
take great care fitting it and was quite sure it was correctly fitted.
He also said that you should never locktight pedals which I thought was
strange as it doesnt cause any dammage, just prevents them from
loosening. I got a new set of cranks and have fitted the crank and the
pedal. I did the pedal reasonably tight (not wanting to strip the
thread) and after a very short distance it losened off. It kept doing
this so now I have locktighted it and its fine and Hopfuly it will last
a bit longer this time.


--
sp4rky-m4rky

you may be lucky but you make your own luck

*)--360--O* The Unispin Elite

)---'O, Crankflip
my 'latest video' (http://youtube.com/watch?v=MaO3NgJ4bW8)
learning 180 or 360 unispins? watch my 'video tutorial'
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hmm
loc-tite on a pedal is un necessary because the pedal should always
tighten iself, did you make sure that the wheelset is on the correct
way? or were you doing a lot of backwards riding?


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skrobo wrote:
> hmm
> loc-tite on a pedal is un necessary because the pedal should always
> tighten iself, did you make sure that the wheelset is on the correct
> way? or were you doing a lot of backwards riding?




I am certain the wheel was on the correct way round and no I didnt do
much backwards riding. Even when I was just practising my gliding it
seemed to losen. I did it up reasonably tight but not realy tight
because I was conserned that I would strip the thread but its not like
it was loose. The lock tight does seem to be doing the job though and
seeing as it takes little effort to do and doesnt cause dammage I dont
see anything wrong with it.


--
sp4rky-m4rky

you may be lucky but you make your own luck

*)--360--O* The Unispin Elite

)---'O, Crankflip
my 'latest video' (http://youtube.com/watch?v=MaO3NgJ4bW8)
learning 180 or 360 unispins? watch my 'video tutorial'
(http://youtube.com/watch?v=gFCHDO1umlM)
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sp4rky-m4rky wrote:
> Does UDC have a warranty on there products?
>
> I bought a 2007 nimbus X freestyle uni just over a week ago. I
> assembled it taking great care that the pedals were on the right side
> (as I know it is easy to strip the thread if they are fitted
> incorrectly) then after riding it for a day I removed the pedals (which
> were fine) one at a time, applied locktight and then fitted them back
> on tightened them up then leaving them over night.
>
> But a couple of days ago I notest my left pedal wobble slightly. I
> hopped off straight away and gave it a wobble and sure enough it was
> loose. I went up to my garage again and put a turn on it (not the bird
> :D ) It was stiff trying both ways, this made me worried, knowing there
> wasn’t much that could be done if it was stripped or cross
> threaded I tried it again and this time it just span and did not
> tighten. I stopped there and went out to practice my ww and gliding and
> to gather my thoughts.
>
> After a good session I went back up to the garage with one thing on my
> mind, remove the pedal. I span it and span it and span it but it did
> not move, just got looser. Knowing the crank was aluminum and the pedal
> was sure to be stronger I hopped at least the pedal would be fine and
> that hopefully I could just get a replacement crank.
>
> I got the pedal off and it appears fine apart from some aluminum from
> the crank stuck in the thread (hopefully I can remove this) the crank
> however is completely stripped :(
>
> Do you know if there is a warranty on the nimbus unicycles that will
> cover this? I will pay for a new crank (and maybe pedal) if I have to
> but seeing as there was nothing I have done wrong I believe I
> shouldn’t have to.
>
> What are your thoughts?





what are you putting locktight on your uni for??

you can tighten em so tight without stripping the cranks that you have
to use a sledgehammer to get em off, (ok, ok, just a wrench with a
handel a few feet long)because of the way the pedal is able to "dig in"
to the silver alloy(assuming it was a stock nimbus)


actually, i could conceivably see somone not wanting a small
indentation around the pedal hole in their crank arms, so do whatever
you want...


banjo gun snake wheels wrote:
> look at the pedal you took off. Does it have an "L" or an "R" on it? I'm
> wondering if you may have put the pedals back on the wrong sides when
> you took them off to loctite them.



not without cross-threading the crank...


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banjo_gun_snake_wheels wrote:
> look at the pedal you took off. Does it have an "L" or an "R" on it? I'm
> wondering if you may have put the pedals back on the wrong sides when
> you took them off to loctite them.




sp4rky-m4rky wrote:
> ...then after riding it for a day I removed the pedals (which were fine)
> _one_at_a_time_



Still, I'd check the wheel and cranks again. You may have put the
wheel on backwards, but the pedals on the correct "side" and stripped
the holes.

Several times I have tried to put the pedals on the wrong side or
reinstalled the wheel backwards. One time I did both at the same time
so the pedals went on fine, but then came undone when I went for a
ride. Luckily I always hand tighten them a fair amount first and often
do as you did, so I don't mix them up.

Also possibly you may have been accidentally sent two cranks for the
same side, so check for that "L" or "R" on the inside of each.


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