In article <sle%[email protected]
>, mikej1 @ix.netcom.com writes
> Everybody's different, so tough to do a true FAQ on fit. Have you had somebody observe you while
> riding? How did you go about getting fit on the new bike? Did the person fitting you pay attention
> to how you ride, or just have a magical set of numbers that ought to work for anybody?
> Do you still have the old bike, so you can compare the changes? Specifically, I'd look at the
> How far behind the crank is the saddle? What is the distance from saddle to handlebar? How much
> drop from the saddle to handlebar? If you get those things dialed in the same, you've pretty much
> covered the basis for setup-oriented changes that might cause back problems.
> One more thing to look at- make sure your seat is level. A nose-down saddle, sometimes even
> slightly so, can cause major back grief (although more commonly issues in the neck & shoulders)
> because you're actually spending the entire time on the bike pushing back from the bars in order
> to maintain your position on the bike.
> Another thing to consider- are you riding different terrain now than before, or perhaps with
> different people? If you're suddenly doing a lot more climbing, and remain in a seated position
> the whole time, that can cause back issues. Good idea to force yourself to stand up every couple
> minutes or so, *before* you feel any issues. Once you begin to feel back pain, it's much more
> difficult to get rid of it than it is to prevent it in the first place.
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
The earlier posting, and your's, too, both suggested that I measure my old bike to see how to set
this one up.
To which I respond, "Oh yeah. Duh."