polar 720i, general questions for those that have it handled.

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by stormer94, Jun 24, 2004.

  1. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    Without mucking through the book for 6 hours, here's where I'm at. :D

    I've used it now for about 10 excercise days on my bike.

    The questions.

    When connecting, can you just down load the most current excercise or does it have to do it "all" everytime? Seems like it connects, thinks about it and does it thing, then displays the next screen and then you have to download all the exercises again. Seems a little redundant, or I'm doing it wrong. I'm hoping I'm doing it wrong.

    I've got the hang of getting my heart rate and speed to show up on the curves. I can't get cadence to show up on the curves at the same time, I'd love to be able to see all three. Yep, I have the sensor hooked up and it works. In the bike setup section, I have "speed" and "cadence" both selected, and in the basic mode, it shows that on start up. It seems as though the only thing you'll get other than heart rate and time, is whatever is being displayed in the top row (). Is that about right?

    I haven't run in the heart rate mode of "% of max" which shows on the bottom row. Does it show that way when you download it to a curve? Can you get it on a curve?

    Also, on the top now it is saving miles under "trip" like the odometer on a regular bike computer, only they don't reset, they are stuck on there and accumulating. How do I get rid of those so I start fresh every training day?

    So far, I have only used it in the basic mode as I'm afraid of having a great workout and no information to review later because I "boned" a setting.

    I love the unit, can't imagine life without now. Just need to learn some of the "tweaks".

    Thanks for all the help, the thing can be a bit intimidating,
    -B
     
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  2. angrydave

    angrydave New Member

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    OK, the ones I can answer right away.

    When Connecting, you need to delete the old files, or you can just select the one you need. The thing to do is to save them to your machine, then work with them off the drive. Is this not what youre doing?

    I'm not sure what you mean by :the curves" explain a bit?

    I dont use percent of max, so I guess Im no help there.

    On the tripmeter, this is a common one, you have to on and running, in other words have hit the start button, cycle to the trip, then press the top left button (light) and hold it. After a few seconds the trip will blink then reset to 0. Remember, you have to have hit the start button.

    The thing to do again is to edit the exercises on the computer then save them to the monitor, like if you change exe set 2 to be an interval workout, make the changes on the computer then upload. Working through IR is a pain.

    What else?
     
  3. rek

    rek New Member

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    From the connection window (the one where you select which exercises you want to save), there'll also be "Delete" and "Delete All" buttons, which can clear exercises from the watch memory.

    You can also do it on the watch by going into its File menu, selecting the exercise, and holding the top-left button for a few seconds.

    Right-click the curve and select Curve Properties. Go into the "Cadence" tab and make sure it is enabled, and the min/max values of the graph are selected to normal values. (e.g. if it was showing a range of 0-20, it would appear as though it's not showing up)

    This is also in the Curve Properties menu, under the HR tab. Along with raw HR numbers, you can show it as % of max HR, and % of HR reserve.

    Yeah, it'll do that :p What you need to do is on the watch, before you begin, get the tripmeter showing on the top row and hold the top-left button for 5 seconds. (The tripmeter will start flashing and after 5 seconds it will zero out.)

    Yeah. It takes a month or three to really work out how to make the watch and software work for you, but once you do, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it.
     
  4. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    ----------------
    Rek,

    Thanks for the input, info below. I already wonder how I lived without it. LOL
    ----------------
    "...This is also in the Curve Properties menu, under the HR tab. Along with raw HR numbers, you can show it as % of max HR, and % of HR reserve..."

    Got that one to work, thanks. :)
    ----------------

    "...Right-click the curve and select Curve Properties. Go into the "Cadence" tab and make sure it is enabled, and the min/max values of the graph are selected to normal values. (e.g. if it was showing a range of 0-20, it would appear as though it's not showing up..."

    I know how to get to that window, but in the curve properties, I don't even have a "cadence tab" much less one I can change. I think this must be an "enabling" issue else where in the watch or setup.

    Here is a window of what I get and would call it typical. I want to put the "cadence" over it as well.
     
  5. jcjordan

    jcjordan New Member

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    also go to the polar site for the new version of the program for your computer. It gives you some addtional features as well as a box at the bottom which gives you a break down of your uphill, downhill and speed.
     
  6. ThrillBilly

    ThrillBilly New Member

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    pretty big downhill there at the end.

    must be scary, your HR shot up going downhill!
     
  7. angrydave

    angrydave New Member

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    Stormer, are you in the military?
     
  8. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    It was scary, but I was going near 40!!!! I was peddling extra hard to get out of it what I could. The blue line is MPH though. The heart rate really wasn't that high. :)
     
  9. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    Thrillbilly,

    Here's one where I was sprinting at the end of a 10 mile race. This one REALLY shows a big spike for heart rate and speed. I think it looks pretty cool from a comparison point of view.

    It was 5 miles out, and 5 miles back, and you can see a lap-1 and lap-2 on the bottom of the chart, that's what those were. You can see there's a slight 2 mph dip in speed toward the end of lap-2 right before the spike in speed for the sprint, that's where we were eyeing each other up for the sprint, slowing down a bit conserving and preparing. Then there's a pause in the mph where I'm handing my information to the score keeper, and then you can see mph and activity again where I rode around to cool down and then finally shut 'er down.
     
  10. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    angrydave,

    Nope not in the military. I support 'em though. :)
     
  11. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    Rek,

    I give up, I can't get cadence to show up on any chart, regardless of what I do. :confused:

    I've yet to even locate a spot where you can set minimums or maximums for cadence.
     
  12. rek

    rek New Member

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    The only way that could happen is if you aren't setting the watch to record cadence ... you have to manually set it in the bike options (the place where you dial in the wheel circumference, turn on the altitude/temp sensor, etc.)

    Options --> Bike Set

    Alternatively when you have the watch connected to the computer, you can configure it there (make sure you click the button to transfer the changes back to the watch)
     
  13. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    Rek, I appreciate your new found job title as "Polar technician". :)

    Believe it or not, I have cadence selected as "on" in the bike set.

    Mind you, if I run the watch in the mode where Cadence is the top thing on the watch display, then it shows up on the chart, but then, I get no mph....

    You have a chart with all 3 things displayed at one time? HR, speed, cadence?

    Much thanks for your time.:)
     
  14. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    In fact, here's one I did about 3 weeks ago that had only Heart rate and cadence (but no MPH). I decided that without some measure of output, like mph, the cadence part was not helpful, just interesting.

    That's why I'm trying to get all 3 on the same curve. :)
     
  15. James Dalton

    James Dalton New Member

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    Has anyone any feedback on the Polar S520?

    I have heard of problems with the speed sensor and stopping mid session etc.

    Is it a good repolacement for a normal cycle computer?

    I currently use my normal cycle computer and also my Polar S410 together - although the 410 has no cycle specific functionality.

    Thanks
     
  16. rek

    rek New Member

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    I'll see your 3 data sets and add another, and a backdrop of my HR zones! ;)


    The 520 is basically a 710/720 with less memory, no altimeter/temperature sensor and no power sensor connectivity.

    If you're looking at using the data logger functions, the lack of memory will be crippling (you can only record for a very short time at a decent ~5sec sampling interval on the 510/520) and the 710/720 is a much better idea. If you're not interested in the graphs and stuff though, it'd be a good all-in-one replacement for a cycle computer, yeah.
     
  17. stormer94

    stormer94 New Member

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    I got it to work. :D

    Turns out, and I'm guessing here, that 2 things occured. The first thing is that the unit for the cadence sender is about 28-29" from the watch, so I think I was having intermittent receivng problems. Secondly, I spent about an hour moving it around on the frame trying to maximize the signal. Zip tie it on, take a trip around the block, come back in, take it off, flip it, move it, re-zip tie it, repeat process for about 2 hours, ruin 40 zip ties and you get the idea... what a mess.

    I was originally trying to fire the cadence sending unit using the magnet that was already on the crank for my cateye astrale 8. I don't think it was doing a good job. So I swapped the magnet for the cadence from polar, and it wouldn't fire the cateye sensor, which I thought was odd (a magnet is a magnet, isn't it???). So NOW, I have the cateye magnet on the crank, & the Polar magnet right below it on the same crank arm.

    Do you suppose it's gonna be bad to have 2 magnets on the same crank arm throwing off the balance of my crank?

    Here's today ride. 33 miles. Looks like I got the cadence working.

    Also, I've noticed that I seem to suffer more for the whole ride if I warm up poorly, so I forced myself not to go over 130 HR for about 7-10 minutes, and then not much over 140 for the next 20 and then do whatever, which seems to be holding around 150 or so. I felt much stronger for the whole ride. I ran out of water at 30 miles so finished up short, was hoping to do 40.

    REK, what is the little squiggly line at the very bottom of the curve? Is it altitude based?
     
  18. Will Davies

    Will Davies New Member

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    Just my 2 cents:

    If your thinking 520 then get the 720.

    It has altitude - which I love and optional cadence and power. It has better (easier) computer interface than 520.

    But MOST importantly, the memory is FAR far bigger than the 520 so you can save 99 instead of just one complete exercise file - great if say you are away for the weekend etc.

    The 720 - for me - was the perfect replacement for my bike computer. Easy to read screens - three pieces of data at one time. HR at bottom- your choice of things like Speed, Distance, altitude, calories used, etc in the middle of screen (big) and same choices in top of screen (small).

    It took me an hour until I got the sensor set up well but now it always works fine. It came with two magent choices and one (the screw driver one) worked far better than the other one.

    Regards,
     
  19. matt22

    matt22 New Member

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    I have a polar 725. Have figured most things out on it. A couple of questions for those who may know.

    1. what is the information in the box on the lower right corner. It shows a breakdown of times/miles/a % of something with some arrows thrown in. Just not sure what this is representing.

    2. is there anyway to email the graph to someone who doesn't have the polar software. I see some of you have posted graphs on this forum. Just wondering how it is done.

    thanks
     
  20. rek

    rek New Member

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    How much of your ride was level, climbing, or descending.

    Take a screenshot of the graph window, crop it and resize it to suit in a graphics program, and send it off.

    Alternatively if you have something like the full version of Adobe Acrobat installed, you could print to a PDF file (instead of to a printer)
     
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