Polar HRM speed sensor on rear wheel

I've been trying to get a speed reading from my sensor mounted on the rear wheel and having lot's of
problems. I've gone through the Polar Forum and read everything said about this. Moving the jumpers
thus strengtening the transmission didn't help until I angled the sensor 90 degrees to the line of
the bike and put it as far up on the rear fork as possible. So now I have it jumpered to max and
taped onto the rear fork at a 90 degree angle, with electricians tape. So what's the problem? Well I
can't leave it like that at least not if I ever take the bike off the Trainer, plus I'm almost
kicking it with my heel on every pedalstroke, since it's sticking straight out. It seems that I'm
really at the edge of transmission range but according to other posts in the Polar Forum they didn't
have as much problems as this. One poster said he got away with an angle of 50 degrees. If I mount
mine as high as possible on the right hand rear fork I get maybe a 20 degree angle. This will send a
signal to about where the stem is fastened to the tube. Could my batterie be low? It's a brand new
unit and it transmitted nicely on the front fork in the low jumpered setting. It's not a big bike or
long stem or anything. 58 cm Trek 5200.

After riding my bike on the trainer the speed readings quit after about 15 minutes of working out.
When I moved the HRM down on the toptube they came back again.

There's got to be a way to come around this and I'd really appreciate any input I can get.

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Perre

 

Just move the watch to the top tube.

http://users.pandora.be/phil.stone/TurboVids.htm

"Per Elmsäter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've been trying to get a speed reading from my sensor mounted on the rear wheel and having lot's
> of problems. I've gone through the Polar Forum and read everything said about this. Moving the
> jumpers thus strengtening the transmission didn't help until I angled the sensor 90 degrees to
> the line
of
> the bike and put it as far up on the rear fork as possible. So now I have
it
> jumpered to max and taped onto the rear fork at a 90 degree angle, with electricians tape. So
> what's the problem? Well I can't leave it like that at least not if I ever take the bike off the
> Trainer, plus I'm almost kicking it with my
heel
> on every pedalstroke, since it's sticking straight out. It seems that I'm really at the edge of
> transmission range but according
to
> other posts in the Polar Forum they didn't have as much problems as this. One poster said he got
> away with an angle of 50 degrees. If I mount mine
as
> high as possible on the right hand rear fork I get maybe a 20 degree
angle.
> This will send a signal to about where the stem is fastened to the tube. Could my batterie be low?
> It's a brand new unit and it transmitted nicely
on
> the front fork in the low jumpered setting. It's not a big bike or long
stem
> or anything. 58 cm Trek 5200.
>
> After riding my bike on the trainer the speed readings quit after about 15 minutes of working out.
> When I moved the HRM down on the toptube they came back again.
>
> There's got to be a way to come around this and I'd really appreciate any input I can get.
>
> --
> Replace the dots to reply
>
> Perre

 

"Phil Stone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gc9%[email protected]...
> Just move the watch to the top tube.
>

Do you know of a mount that will fit on the top tube without making me look at the readings from
90 degrees and not sliding around to the bottom of the top tube. As for now I do attach the watch
to the toptube but it does have it's drawbacks and I would't want it there when I take the bike
out on the road.

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Perre

 

I used to have two elastic bands on the top tube which held the straps, took me about seconds to fit
it, & to remove it you just grab the watch ! It was also easy to read there.

> Do you know of a mount that will fit on the top tube without making me
look
> at the readings from 90 degrees and not sliding around to the bottom of
the
> top tube. As for now I do attach the watch to the toptube but it does have it's drawbacks and I
> would't want it there when I take the bike out on the road.
>
> --
> Replace the dots to reply
>
> Perre

 

I can't help you with your problem, but could you tell me how to change the jumpers on my S510

Thanks

Tony

 

"Tony" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I can't help you with your problem, but could you tell me how to change the jumpers on my S510
>

I imagine the speed sensors are the same for all S series so here goes. Open the sensor with two
screws that you might not immediately see. They are located in two holes in the back part of the
sensor ( the hollowed out part). Make sure you have the correct Phillips screwdriver since they are
very small and you don't wan't to start slipping thus damaging the heads.

When the screws come out you can pull the sensor apart, be careful with the rubber seal, possibly
grease it again with silicon or such when remounting.

You will see a circuit board sticking out of the outer part. On one side there is a jumper and three
pins. default the jumper is slid onto the inner pin, low setting. If you move it outwards over the
two inner pins you have medium setting. Over the two pins closest to the edge of the board you have
maximum transmission range.

If you carefully slide the whole circuit board out of the plastic you will also find a battery.

You can also find more on these matters on the Polar forum in Australia.
http://www.pursuit-performance.com.au/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

Regards Perre

 

"Phil Stone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<lai%[email protected]>...
> I used to have two elastic bands on the top tube which held the straps, took me about seconds to
> fit it, & to remove it you just grab the watch ! It was also easy to read there.
>
>

Yes that will work nicely for the Trainer. I'll try it out. Don't think I'll do it on the road
though. Well spring is still a month or two away.

Perre

 

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
(Perre) wrote:
>"Tony" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> I can't help you with your problem, but could you tell me how to change the jumpers on my S510
>>
>
>I imagine the speed sensors are the same for all S series so here goes. Open the sensor with two
>screws that you might not immediately see. They are located in two holes in the back part of the
>sensor ( the hollowed out part). Make sure you have the correct Phillips screwdriver since they are
>very small and you don't wan't to start slipping thus damaging the heads.
>
>When the screws come out you can pull the sensor apart, be careful with the rubber seal, possibly
>grease it again with silicon or such when remounting.
>
>You will see a circuit board sticking out of the outer part. On one side there is a jumper and
>three pins. default the jumper is slid onto the inner pin, low setting. If you move it outwards
>over the two inner pins you have medium setting. Over the two pins closest to the edge of the board
>you have maximum transmission range.
>
>If you carefully slide the whole circuit board out of the plastic you will also find a battery.

Anybody know how much this affect the lifetime of the batteries?

Jørn Dahl-Stamnes, EDB Teamco AS e-mail: [email protected] (remove nospam first)
web: http://spiderman.novit.no/dahls/

 

Thanks for the info

Tony

 

"Tony" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the info
>
Well at least this thread did somebody some good

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Perre

 

After getting in contact with Polar about this problem everything looks like it's going to work out
allright. They set up a new sensor on maximum, tried it out to ensure that it transmitted more than
one meter and mailed it to me, free of charge.

That is what I call product support.

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Perre