Polishing aluminium hubs?



K

Kim Hawtin

Guest
Hi Guys,

Was wondering what I should use to polish up a pair of hubs for my
fixie?

I scored a pair of 'Normandy' Made in France hubs, front and flipflop
rear...

Now to photograph spoke layout and disassemble for cleaning...

cheers,

Kim
 
> Was wondering what I should use to polish up a pair of hubs for my
> fixie?


Depends how bad they are to start with, but I have had great success on
really nasty hubs (Normandy high flange road hubs strangely enough) and
lots of other bike parts with the following:

0.5) Disassemble and remove everything you can.
1) Scotchbrite pad with solution of degreaser
2) Wet 600 grit silicon carbide paper, cut into strips and shapes to
get all the crevices.
3) Wet 1200 grit as above
3.5) Optional 4000 grit for masochists
4) Metal polish (in a toothpaste tube from Supercheap Auto, also works
a treat on brass, stainless, chrome) applied with a cotton cloth, and
buffed off with another cloth.

That should get it to a near mirror shine and at the same time give you
aching hands with lots of embedded black Al2O3.

For really OTT results, put the hubs in a tumbler with walnut media,
then use either metal polish, Brasso & Silvo, or if you can get your
hands on it, 6 micron and 1 micron diamond paste/suspension.

Of course it won't last and the mirror shine will start to degrade
immediately unless you lacquer them, but they'll still look good and a
quick touch up with the metal polish will bring it back.

While you're at it and the spokes are out, do the rims too, heaps
easier. And you are going to use new stainless spokes for the build
aren't you? Old galvanised spokes look horrible.

AB
 
Kim Hawtin said:
Hi Guys,

Was wondering what I should use to polish up a pair of hubs for my
fixie?

Best stuff to polish old aluminium is AUTO-SOL.
Comes in a toothpaste sized tube from motor spares shops and is a white paste.
Wipe on sparingly. Rag turns black. Polish off. Aloominum sparkles.
Pete
 
Poiter said:
Best stuff to polish old aluminium is AUTO-SOL.
Comes in a toothpaste sized tube from motor spares shops and is a white paste.
Wipe on sparingly. Rag turns black. Polish off. Aloominum sparkles.
Pete


Once it is all nice and sparkly (I might even give my Normandy rhub a **** up) what is the best thing to put on to keep it that way?

Cheers

Geoff
 
> > Best stuff to polish old aluminium is AUTO-SOL.

That's the stuff I mentioned. But you need a good base to start from
hence the SiC paper.

> Once it is all nice and sparkly (I might even give my Normandy rhub a
> **** up) what is the best thing to put on to keep it that way?


Argon.
 
My take on polishing, as there is more than one way to skin a cat.

>From my vintage motorcycle experience (large alloy surfaces) the way to

a mirror like restoration finish was the "going through the wet&dry
grades" method as mentioned previously. Then use a polishing/buffing
wheels (several grades here as well) with special polishing. When you
get to this level, autosol and average cotton rag is too abrasive and
will actually dull the finish! The reason for the wet&dry is to remove
metal to get past surface imperfections ie scatches.

Then I was speaking about this with a friend who is into hot rods. He
just rubbed alloy rocker covers with steel wool and finished them with
autosol. I was fairly horrified at this treatment after all the effort
that went into my motorbike.

So there I was last week building my fixie, wanting to polish up an old
Weinmann centre pull brake. Too many curves & fiddly for the wet and
dry, so I tried the steel wool. It ripped the oxide off in a flash,
then I autosol'd and was amazed at the results. From matt grey to
mirror in minutes.

So in short my new technique is:
- previously polished, in good condition with oxiding - steel wool
(someone will say brasswool(?) as it doesnt rust if fibres get left
behind)
- scratched, machine marked or previously un-polished - wet&dry paper
until a smooth but dull finish is acheived.
- polish with Autosol, using soft cotton rags (tshirt material, not
business shirt type), and use heaps as it quickly gets full of the
oxide/metal you are trying to remove.

So now is my chance to show off my fixed, no close up of the brake
though :)
http://homepage.hispeed.ch/gwalton/bicycles/firstfixed.jpg
 
Andrew wrote:
>>Was wondering what I should use to polish up a pair of hubs for my
>>fixie?

>
> Depends how bad they are to start with, but I have had great success on
> really nasty hubs (Normandy high flange road hubs strangely enough) and
> lots of other bike parts with the following:
>
> 0.5) Disassemble and remove everything you can.
> 1) Scotchbrite pad with solution of degreaser
> 2) Wet 600 grit silicon carbide paper, cut into strips and shapes to
> get all the crevices.
> 3) Wet 1200 grit as above
> 3.5) Optional 4000 grit for masochists
> 4) Metal polish (in a toothpaste tube from Supercheap Auto, also works
> a treat on brass, stainless, chrome) applied with a cotton cloth, and
> buffed off with another cloth.
>
> That should get it to a near mirror shine and at the same time give you
> aching hands with lots of embedded black Al2O3.


sounds like a plan =)

> While you're at it and the spokes are out, do the rims too, heaps
> easier. And you are going to use new stainless spokes for the build
> aren't you? Old galvanised spokes look horrible.


um ... yes yes ... of course ;)

cheers,

kim
 
Kim Hawtin said:
Hi Guys,

Was wondering what I should use to polish up a pair of hubs for my
fixie?

cheers,

Kim

Bunnings sell Steel Wool in various fine grades for french polishing timber. Can only buy a big lump but its not expensive.
Just be careful storing it. Any moisture will rust the lot and damage stuff around it and a spark from an angle grinder etc will set it on FIRE.

Dont know who is selling elbow grease these days.

Cheers
Hugh