Positioning SPD Cleats

[Roger Zoul]

I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
position so as to avoid any potential knee problems? (I don't have a trainer
handy). (Since I bought the shoes online I don't feel good about going into
the LBS, even though I went there looking to see if they had any better
shoes than the ones I have, and there were all about out of any type of road
shoe). One Zinn book I have says it's best to have the LBS do this provided
they have fit kit. Is that so?

I guess I'll do some short rides tomorrow while trying to get these
tweaked....

 

[gds]

My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on the
old shoes.
Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
place them approximately and then tweak them.
But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
LBS.

 

[gds]

My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
Unless the new shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on the
old shoes.
Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
place them approximately and then tweak them.
But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
LBS.

 

[Roger Zoul]

gds <[email protected]> wrote:
:> My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
:> experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
:> Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
:> place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on
:> the old shoes.
:> Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
:> place them approximately and then tweak them.
:> But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
:> LBS.

I hear what you're saying and that's probably what I'll do, but in the
meantime, how do I gain experience? I really don't like depending on the
LBS for stuff I feel I can do....

 

[Arthur Harris]

"Roger Zoul" wrote:
> I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
> SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
> my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
> now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
> position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?

Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the pedal
spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust the angle
of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for you (which
may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket science; no
need to pay a LBS to do this.

After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.

Art Harris

 

[psycholist]

Roger,

I'm with Art on this one. Shouldn't have to pay an LBS for this. The
"neutral" position is the one that puts the pedal spindle directly under the
ball of your foot. Start there and see if you feel like you need to move it
a little forward or a little backward. I've heard that crit racers prefer
it one way and road racers prefer it another. I usually stick with the
neutral position myself.

Put on your touring shoes and see if you can get an idea where the ball of
your foot is relative to the spindle. If you like that "feel," try to match
it on the new shoes. You may have to tweak over the course of a few rides,
but what else is new.

Good luck.


--
Bob C.

"Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)
"Arthur Harris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%X%[email protected]...
> "Roger Zoul" wrote:
>> I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install
>> some SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road
>> shoes that my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for
>> about 1.5 years now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats
>> in the right position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?
>
> Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the
> pedal spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust
> the angle of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for
> you (which may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket
> science; no need to pay a LBS to do this.
>
> After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
> hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.
>
> Art Harris
>

 

[gds]

There are obviously lots of opinions and probably no "right" answer.

I'll just add to my comments above that what intially "felt right" to
me turned out to be wrong biomechanically. I have no argument with the
position that with a bit of experience (and some guidance) you could do
this yourself. But with NO experience I think the chance of getting it
right is low enough that it is worth the $$.

 

[gds]

Roger Zoul wrote:
> gds <[email protected]> wrote:
> :> My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
> :> experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
> :> Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
> :> place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on
> :> the old shoes.
> :> Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
> :> place them approximately and then tweak them.
> :> But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
> :> LBS.
>
> I hear what you're saying and that's probably what I'll do, but in the
> meantime, how do I gain experience? I really don't like depending on the
> LBS for stuff I feel I can do....

A couple of ideas.
First, I think that experience is just that, so as you indicate you can
only get it by doing it. But most cleat fitting is done on a trainer
for the obvious ease of stop/start, on/off and safety. You indicated
that you don't have a trainer so you are starting out with a big
disadvantage in getting going.

Once you have a set of cleats fit correctly you can mark their location
on your shoes with nail polish or some other type of marker. Then you
can play with fine tuning from that start point and always be able to
return to the base position. Such markings will also aid you in getting
a start point on a new pair.

The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your cleats
and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee injury to
get back. So, I guess my major rec if you want to learn to do this is
have someone who is experienced show yo how and get yourself access to
a trainer. I do think it is a matter of experience rather than
complicated science.

My cleat position is quite unusual on one side as an old hip injury
results in a foot position that works well for me but is far from
"normal." Almost all bike shop folks look at my old shoes and tellme
they are going to "cahnge that funky right foot." Of course, thye wind
up seeing that it actually works.

And when you get really experienced even the help of a FIT kit becomes
less necessary. There is a local racer/ bike shop owner who fits
clients purely by watching them ride (on a trainer). His fit is the
best I have ever had. That said he was really fine tuning an already
fitted pair.

Good luck!! But don't risk getting hurt.

 

[Zoot Katz]

23 Sep 2005 17:03:56 -0700,
<[email protected]>,
"gds" <[email protected]> wrote:

>The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your cleats
>and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee injury to
>get back.

Take the proper wrench so you can adjust them on the road at the first
signs of problems, whether you're dialing them in for yourself or just
in case the LBS guy missed.

Also, in all this adjusting process, make absolutely certain that the
screws are tight. (Don't bust those cheese screws though)
With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.
--
zk

 

[Roger Zoul]

Zoot Katz <[email protected]> wrote:
:> 23 Sep 2005 17:03:56 -0700,
:> <[email protected]>,
:> "gds" <[email protected]> wrote:
:>
:>>The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your
:>>cleats and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee
:>>injury to get back.
:>
:> Take the proper wrench so you can adjust them on the road at the
:> first signs of problems, whether you're dialing them in for yourself
:> or just in case the LBS guy missed.

Yes, I keep wrenches in my underseat bag....

:>
:> Also, in all this adjusting process, make absolutely certain that the
:> screws are tight. (Don't bust those cheese screws though)
:> With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.

That's scary!!!

 

[Roger Zoul]

psycholist <[email protected]> wrote:
:> Roger,
:>
:> I'm with Art on this one. Shouldn't have to pay an LBS for this.
:> The "neutral" position is the one that puts the pedal spindle
:> directly under the ball of your foot. Start there and see if you
:> feel like you need to move it a little forward or a little backward.
:> I've heard that crit racers prefer it one way and road racers prefer
:> it another. I usually stick with the neutral position myself.
:>
:> Put on your touring shoes and see if you can get an idea where the
:> ball of your foot is relative to the spindle. If you like that
:> "feel," try to match it on the new shoes. You may have to tweak
:> over the course of a few rides, but what else is new.

I tried it for a bit early....they seemed to be in a good position. I'll
play with it a bit tomorrow out at Donaldson....I'll also take my other
shoes just in case I don't get them set right....

 

[Zoot Katz]

Fri, 23 Sep 2005 20:58:09 -0400, <[email protected]>,
"Roger Zoul" <[email protected]> wrote:

>:> With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.
>
>That's scary!!!

Let's say it's a white-knucke experience and you won't enjoy it.
--
zk

 

[Peter Cole]

Arthur Harris wrote:
> "Roger Zoul" wrote:
>
>>I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
>>SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
>>my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
>>now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
>>position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?
>
>
> Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the pedal
> spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust the angle
> of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for you (which
> may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket science; no
> need to pay a LBS to do this.
>
> After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
> hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.

I agree with Art, it's not rocket science. I'd go so far as to say
you're better off doing it yourself than having the LBS do it. It's all
about trial & error. There's no way to predict whether you'll like a
toe-in or out position or how far back you like your cleat. Take an
Allen wrench with you and try different settings as you ride around.

Besides forward/back and toe-in/out, SPD cleats usually allow a little
side-to-side. I like to set this so my weight is precisely balanced on
the (relatively small) cleat.