Possible Causes of Slow Shifting in Dura Ace 9 Speed Setup?

[19wisconsin64]

Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
components. It's really a great bike, but for some reason
when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try shifting from
my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to the 12 (smallest)
rear cog there is a short delay. Sometimes the delay is for
a few seconds. I have cleaned the chain several times, used
a very good dry lubricant, and cleaned and lightly greased
the rear derailleur. Also, I've cleaned the rear cogset. I
have never replaced anything on the bike, except the tires
and brakepads, and over the past 5 years have accumulated
about 5,000 miles. Now that I'm putting on a lot more miles,
this small annoyance has me wondering. Should I replace the
chain? Could a spring in the rear derailleur be weak?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Honestly, being an eighties kind of guy, this whole
STI/ERGO thing has me flummoxed.

Thanks, Dave

 

[S O R N I]

19wisconsin64 wrote:
> Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some reason
> when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try shifting
> from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to the 12
> (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay. Sometimes the
> delay is for a few seconds.

Try turning the barrel adjuster (at the rear derailleur) a
click or two clockwise. (Though usually the cable stretches
a little and the fix is to TIGHTEN not slacken.) (Is slacken
even a word?!?)

I had some shifting problems on my Klein (internal cable
routed), and discovered the /frame/ (upper?) barrel adjuster
had broken. So check over your drivetrain, just in case.

Bill "road so much less troublesome than mtn." S.

 

[Paul Southworth]

In article <[email protected]>,
19wisconsin64 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some
> reason when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try
> shifting from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to
> the 12 (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay.
> Sometimes the delay is for a few seconds. I have cleaned
> the chain several times, used a very good dry lubricant,
> and cleaned and lightly greased the rear derailleur.
> Also, I've cleaned the rear cogset. I have never
> replaced anything on the bike, except the tires and
> brakepads, and over the past 5 years have accumulated
> about 5,000 miles. Now that I'm putting on a lot more
> miles, this small annoyance has me wondering. Should I
> replace the chain?

The chain could probably use replacing but may or may not
cause your shifting problem. I would usually start by
making sure everything is properly adjusted (derailleur
stops, cable tension) and at least eyeball check for a bent
derailleur tab or derailleur cage. Then I would lube the
derailleur cable, or replace it, and replace housing if
necessary. Pull off the end caps and look at the cut end of
housing, square off any really nasty cuts and use a spoker
poker to open the liner completely. I would also avoid
using "sealed" housing end caps (with a rubber seal inside)
as they will contribute to sluggish cable movement. Feel
the movement of the cable through the housing by pulling it
both ways with your hands, it should move quite easily with
very little resistance. I generally use motor oil on
derailleur cables, or tri-flow for a problem case I don't
want to fix properly.

Check chain for stretch and replace if necessary.

>Could a spring in the rear derailleur be weak?

Could be, but I wouldn't start by replacing that. You
probably don't have enough mileage on it to be concerned
about the springs.

--Paul

 

[Jim Flom]

"Paul Southworth" waxed eloquently thusly...
>
> The chain could probably use replacing but may or may not
> cause your shifting problem. I would usually start by
> making sure everything is properly adjusted (derailleur
> stops, cable tension) and at least eyeball check for a
> bent derailleur tab or derailleur cage. Then I would lube
> the derailleur cable, or replace it, and replace housing
> if necessary. Pull off the end caps and look at the cut
> end of housing, square off any really nasty cuts and use a
> spoker poker to open the liner completely. I would also
> avoid using "sealed" housing end caps (with a rubber seal
> inside) as they will contribute to sluggish cable
> movement. Feel the movement of the cable through the
> housing by pulling it both ways with your hands, it should
> move quite easily with very little resistance. I generally
> use motor oil on derailleur cables, or tri-flow for a
> problem case I don't want to fix properly.
>
> Check chain for stretch and replace if necessary.

Or you could just try turning the barrel adjuster clockwise
a bit like Sorni suggested.

JF

 

[A Muzi]

19wisconsin64 wrote:

> Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some reason
> when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try shifting
> from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to the 12
> (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay. Sometimes the
> delay is for a few seconds. I have cleaned the chain
> several times, used a very good dry lubricant, and cleaned
> and lightly greased the rear derailleur. Also, I've
> cleaned the rear cogset. I have never replaced anything on
> the bike, except the tires and brakepads, and over the
> past 5 years have accumulated about 5,000 miles. Now that
> I'm putting on a lot more miles, this small annoyance has
> me wondering. Should I replace the chain? Could a spring
> in the rear derailleur be weak?

Check the cable casing for a kink or a damaged ferrule,
especially if yours are plastic. Pull back the wires from
the casing if that's possible on your frame (Usually there
is a slotted sop or an unboltable stop ) and note any
corrosion or dirt or even worse kinks in the wires. Even
though modern gear wires are "no lube needed", something
light that won't get sticky (Rock-n-Roll for example) is
nice for wires inside casing. Replace damaged control wires
or casings.

Then evaluate the alignment of the rear changer. The cage
plates should be parallel to the chainrings when viewed from
behind* If the bike has been dropped on the right side at
some point, the changer ( or more exactly its mounting tab)
will be bent in slightly. See which shops in your area can
correct that. One might do a reasonably good job of that by
eye with an allen key stuck in the top pivot. But I am
hesitant to suggest a user-bend fix to modern aluminum gear
tabs as those can be pretty wimpy . Easy does it.

*Not all derailleurs are deigned to be dead vertical. Some
have a cant designed in.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

 

[Peter Cole]

"19wisconsin64" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some reason
> when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try shifting
> from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to the 12
> (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay. Sometimes the
> delay is for a few seconds. I have cleaned the chain
> several times, used a very good dry lubricant, and cleaned
> and lightly greased the rear derailleur. Also, I've
> cleaned the rear cogset. I have never replaced anything on
> the bike, except the tires and brakepads, and over the
> past 5 years have accumulated about 5,000 miles. Now that
> I'm putting on a lot more miles, this small annoyance has
> me wondering. Should I replace the chain? Could a spring
> in the rear derailleur be weak?

The "weak link" is usually the last section of cable
housing, the loop that goes from the seatstay to the rear
derailer. I think this should probably just be replaced
every couple of years. Water runs down the cable & into the
housing, carrying **** with it. The friction causes slow
shifts to smaller rear sprockets. It's a $2 fix.

 

[Qui Si Parla Ca]

david-<< but for some reason when I am on the 53 tooth
chainring, and I try shifting from my 14 cog to my 13 cog,
or the 13 cog to the 12 (smallest) rear cog there is a short
delay. >><BR><BR>

Something is preventing the rear der from pulling the chain
to those cogs. Either an over adjusted(adjusted too high)
rear der or a sluggish inner wire, dirty housing or both.
Since it has been working well, i think new inner wire and
housing is called for.

I would get 5mm der housing(get rid of the awful 4mm stuff
from shimano) and a new inner wire. Then adjust the rear der
well. Also clean the under BB guide well.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

[daveornee]

Originally posted by Qui Si Parla Ca
david-<< but for some reason when I am on the 53 tooth
chainring, and I try shifting from my 14 cog to my 13 cog,
or the 13 cog to the 12 (smallest) rear cog there is a short
delay. >><BR><BR>

Something is preventing the rear der from pulling the chain
to those cogs. Either an over adjusted(adjusted too high)
rear der or a sluggish inner wire, dirty housing or both.
Since it has been working well, i think new inner wire and
housing is called for.

I would get 5mm der housing(get rid of the awful 4mm stuff
from shimano) and a new inner wire. Then adjust the rear der
well. Also clean the under BB guide well.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

If you have 5,000 miles on your chain and cogs it may be time to change them too.
I agree with Peter on his suggestions.
Check Sheldon's articles at:
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

 

[Harris]

19wisconsin64 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some
> reason when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try
> shifting from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to
> the 12 (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay.
> Sometimes the delay is for a few seconds.

Doubt it's the chain. If it's shifting from the 12 to 13 and
13 to 14 OK, but not the other way, then the likely cause is
cable friction. Check your cables and housings as well as
the cable guide under the BB.

Art Harris

 

[Harris]

19wisconsin64 <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have never replaced anything on the bike, except the
> tires and brakepads, and over the past 5 years have
> accumulated about 5,000 miles.

While the chain probably isn't the cause of this problem,
it's probably due for replacement since you say it's got
5000 miles on it.

Art Harris

 

[Bill]

"19wisconsin64" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace 7700
> components. It's really a great bike, but for some reason
> when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try shifting
> from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to the 12
> (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay. Sometimes the
> delay is for a few seconds. I have cleaned the chain
> several times, used a very good dry lubricant, and cleaned
> and lightly greased the rear derailleur. Also, I've
> cleaned the rear cogset. I have never replaced anything on
> the bike, except the tires and brakepads, and over the
> past 5 years have accumulated about 5,000 miles. Now that
> I'm putting on a lot more miles, this small annoyance has
> me wondering. Should I replace the chain? Could a spring
> in the rear derailleur be weak?
>
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
>
> Honestly, being an eighties kind of guy, this whole
> STI/ERGO thing has me flummoxed.
>
> Thanks, Dave

I'd bet money on one of two problems and maybe a combination
of both. Replace the rear derailleur cable. If you have 5k
on it then it will be damaged where it wraps in the shift
lever. I figure that cable is good for a reliable 3,000
miles, any thing beyond is a grace period. A failure also
has the possibility of fine wires breaking off in the
shifter and making it a paperweight.

Also if the problem is temperature related. Particularly
slow when it is cold and gets better in warm weather then
it is probably the Shimano grease in the shift lever
turning to glue. Time for the WD40 rinse.
http://tinyurl.com/3y63y I used WD40 to purge and then
dripped a little Phil Wood oil in for lubrication. That
resurrected a lever I was going to replace. Works as good
as new. Since it's a Dura Ace 8 speed that's not saying a
lot but the price was right. Bill Brannon

 

[19wisconsin64]

A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> 19wisconsin64 wrote:
>
> > Hi, I have a Trek OCLV framed bike, with all Dura Ace
> > 7700 components. It's really a great bike, but for some
> > reason when I am on the 53 tooth chainring, and I try
> > shifting from my 14 cog to my 13 cog, or the 13 cog to
> > the 12 (smallest) rear cog there is a short delay.
> > Sometimes the delay is for a few seconds. I have cleaned
> > the chain several times, used a very good dry lubricant,
> > and cleaned and lightly greased the rear derailleur.
> > Also, I've cleaned the rear cogset. I have never
> > replaced anything on the bike, except the tires and
> > brakepads, and over the past 5 years have accumulated
> > about 5,000 miles. Now that I'm putting on a lot more
> > miles, this small annoyance has me wondering. Should I
> > replace the chain? Could a spring in the rear derailleur
> > be weak?
>
> Check the cable casing for a kink or a damaged ferrule,
> especially if yours are plastic. Pull back the wires from
> the casing if that's possible on your frame (Usually there
> is a slotted sop or an unboltable stop ) and note any
> corrosion or dirt or even worse kinks in the wires. Even
> though modern gear wires are "no lube needed", something
> light that won't get sticky (Rock-n-Roll for example) is
> nice for wires inside casing. Replace damaged control
> wires or casings.
>
> Then evaluate the alignment of the rear changer. The cage
> plates should be parallel to the chainrings when viewed
> from behind* If the bike has been dropped on the right
> side at some point, the changer ( or more exactly its
> mounting tab) will be bent in slightly. See which shops in
> your area can correct that. One might do a reasonably good
> job of that by eye with an allen key stuck in the top
> pivot. But I am hesitant to suggest a user-bend fix to
> modern aluminum gear tabs as those can be pretty wimpy .
> Easy does it.
>
> *Not all derailleurs are deigned to be dead vertical. Some
> have a cant designed in.

Thanks to all of you for your words of advice!

 

[Tim Lines]

S o r n i wrote:

> TIGHTEN not slacken.) (Is slacken even a word?!?)

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=slacken