PowerTap problem

Hey guys,

I was wondering whether anyone has had a similar problem. I've recently replaced my PT SL batteries after 3,000km. On Wednesday I got the hub a bit wet, nothing serious - it stays in the house so had a few days to dry out. I used it on Saturday for 6 hours and Sunday for 2, working perfectly on both occassions.

I came to it on Wednesday and it wouldn't work at all. All I got was "---". I checked with a friends wheel and the harness and head are working fine, so it must be the hub - any ideas as to what it might be?

Cheers!

 

This has happened to me once, I assume the water vapor inside condensed and shorted something out, try opening up the battery thing, and letting it air out for a few days, possibly helping it with a fan.

Mine started working after I did that and changed the batteries.

 

Well, I've opened it up (no sign of water in the battery compartment) and have let it dry for the past 24 hours, tried different combinations of batteries and still no joy - looks like it's going to be heading back stateside - irritatig. What's the usual turnaround for a PT hub refurb?

 

Make sure you're not in cyclo mode. Go to the current cadence field and hold SELECT for 2 sec.

 

Make sure you're not in cyclo mode. Go to the current cadence field and push SELECT for 2 sec. Do that repeatedly to toggle to/from cyclo mode.

 

Make sure you're not in cyclo mode. Go to the current cadence field and push SELECT for 2sec. Do this repeatedly to toggle to/from cyclo mode.

 

Definitely not in cyclo mode - I dumped someone else PT in and the unit fired up straight away. It's currently sat in the house "hopefully" drying out - just have to see if it has made any difference.

Feels really strange riding the bike without the PT!

 

Hope yours isn't as bad as mine. I got on the rollers tonight for a spin to see my wattage indications flickering. I hopped off to change the batteries only to find the soldered connection no longer attached. God only knows how long Saris will take to help me at my address in Japan. So much for training with power in December.

 

I hear ya; maybe try these things:

loosen the cap a bit in case it's too tight.

try batteries you know are good, but be sure not to overtighten the cap.

go to test mode on the cpu and run test 2 and you should see "88" flash.

good luck, Mike

 

There should be a note in the owner's manual that says "The wire on the battery pack is only soldered to the board so you can pull the batteries out"

I was FREAKING out for no good reason.

VW

 

To be fair I've had great service from Saris in the US - they've posted stuff to me in the UK and I've received orders within two days usually - even repairs to a hub I bought broken on the basis that it might be fixable only took a week and a bit.
My problem is wading through the manual...

 

Email/phone them, get a Return Authorisation number, delace the hub from wheel and send hub back to Saris in the US.

They are excellent at replacing / repairing I've found. Yes it's a pain and sometimes if you're unlucky to get an early SL there were some with teething problems. Saris simply sent me a new replacement hub. I've had two (I was an early adopter of the SL) like this. Brand new hub each time and not a problem since (wet/rain/whatever). Works a treat.

OK - it's a pain but just do it, fix the prob and you'll be back up in a couple of weeks max I'd say.

 

You don't need to unlace the wheel when you send it to us, depending where you are it might save a few $ on shippnig but that's it. We can do all the same service on a hub or wheel.

Jesse Bartholomew
CycleOps Product Manager

 

The freight cost difference for me was $180. And that was just one way to the US (several quotes through several freight forwarders and Aust Post). Hence I delaced the wheel. I thought OP being from the UK might face a similar problem.

 

Nah, we just send them back as complete wheels.

ric

 

Lucky buggers.

I hear that Trek Australia has now taken on the distribution of PTs here. So here's hoping we'll have a bit better local support. Previously it was abysmal.

 

Ok, so International shipping may be a different story.

 

We do cover the shipping back as well.

 

Got some problems that have been intermittent. Sometimes I lose the communication icon for just a few minutes and then I get it back for days, but my data since this started happening is extremely jagged instead of the usual smooth lines I always get. This is for speed, power, torque. Cadence and HR seem unaffected or at most slightly affected (but I dont think so).


Tonight was the worst. I rode for 2 hours and watts were jumping all over the place again. I downloaded the data to CP WKO as usual and it was again jagged. Later this evening I put the bike back in the trainer to try and diagnose the data issue and got either no communication icon or when I got an icon, as soon as I started to pedal I might get a split second of watts, then I lose the comm icon again. I replaced the computer battery and the batteries in the hub arent very old. Is this a hub battery issue? I'll call Saris tomorrow as well.

Again-cadence and HR are working.

Ray

 

I played with jiggling wires, cleaned the contacts, unplugged the cadence, moved wires around, all the usual stuff. Nothing. Any ideas?

I did ride in heavy rains on Saturday so that ight be it as well. I just remembered that. BUT-let me add that I was having dropouts of comm before riding in the rain as well, but smooth data curves.

Ray