Problem with reseating headset!

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by lohsnest, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. lohsnest

    lohsnest New Member

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    :mad: Last night, I had to remove my hadlebar stem and adjust the angle of that stem and as it seemed the handlebar was a bit high. In the process, the headset is not properly seated. I am now having problems reseating the headset properly.... I have a Cane Creek IS threadless headest. The problem appears to be simple, but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. The cups and fork are seated properly on both ends, but I am having problems inserting the inner flexible ring, as it wants to push back out each time. Everytime I think I have it and try to reinstall the handlebar, it finds a way to slip back out, pushing the cap of the headset back up. As a result, my fork is somewhat wobbly and there is a 1/2mm gap between the top lip of the frame and the cap on the headset. I spent two hours yesterday trying to figure out what I did wrong and I am at a loss for answers..... Any ideas out there?

    Thanks for the help.
     
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  2. biker7

    biker7 New Member

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    Hi Lohsnest,
    When changing stems there typically is a correlation between clamp width and stem reach. The longer the stem generally the wider the clamp width due to the moment created by having a longer cantilever. If you went to a shorter stem...you mentioned you are changing stem rise...then likely the clamp width of your new stem is shorter than the previous stem. If you used the same amount of spacers you cannot preload the headset bearings via the top cap as the stack up of parts is shy with the shorter clamp...what I suspect by your explanation. I just went through this myself with my new bike. I went to a shorter stem and had to add carbon fiber spacers to fill the 10mm differential in height due to stem steerer clamp width difference. A subtle and often overlooked issue when changing stems is the height centerline of the new stem will be affected by your change in stem clamp width. If the clamps are 10mm different as they were in my case, going from a 50mm to 40 mm wide steerer clamp width, then the centerline of the new stem will be raised half this difference or 5 mm's. What you can do since you are going for a more aero profile by decreasing stem rise is to space above the stem clamp to lower the stem. After you have arrived at your best riding position you can cut the steerer tube to make the headset cap flush with the stem. Keep in mind that cutting the steerer is not reversible. :)
    HTH,
    George
     
  3. lohsnest

    lohsnest New Member

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    I actually kept the stem....I just swithced the orientation...flip-flopped it...now the springy washer has trouble seating correctly. I actually do not no the term for it, but it is a singular, angled washer-like disc that sits between the actual fork and the cup of the headset. this washer is springy so it acts as a resistance so the fork doesn't wiggle around. That washer is supposed to sit snugggly into the feadset tubing, but mine doesn't...it wants to spring up every time, resulting in thesmall gap.
     
  4. biker7

    biker7 New Member

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    Believe you are refering to the star washer. Are you sure about its orientation?...that is when you removed it. In one direction the star washer will pull right through the tube and when oriented 180 degrees the star washer will dig into the walls of the tube when tensioned by the allen set screw. When peering down through the top of the steerer...the star washer should be positioned concave...which makes insertion pretty easy and removal difficult. When the set screw pulls up on the star washer the barbs will physically dig into the I.D. of the steerer tube if it is positioned correctly concave when viewing from up top. If you have the star washer positioned convex as viewed from up top, the set screw will pull the star washer right on out with no bearing pre-load.
    HTH,
    George
     
  5. serenaslu

    serenaslu New Member

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    Not quite sure that I am understanding properly what you are meaning by the gap between "the frame and the cap".

    Have you looked at:
    http://www.canecreek.com/fileadmin/canecreek/products/headsets/man_cc_head/IS_eng.pdf
    ?
     
  6. lohsnest

    lohsnest New Member

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    Okay, the Cane Creek headset has two parts, a cup (disc) that sits in the bottom of the steerage tube, sitting between the fork and the steerage tube. The second cup (disc) sits on the top of the steerage tube and has a slot in which thin springy metal o-ring sits. This o-ring is springy and sits between the tube of the fork and the inner rim of the top cup (disc) I think this thin metal disc is meant to keep the fork in place. However, my problem is when I install the top cap of the headset, it seems that there is a gap of about 1/2 or 1/4mm, wheras it should be flush with the top of the frame's steerage tube.

    Does this make any sense? :confused:
     
  7. serenaslu

    serenaslu New Member

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    It sounds to me like you are describing a gap between the Upper Bearing Cover (rather than the Top Cap) and the steerer tube (see diagram at bottom of http://www.canecreek.com/fileadmin/canecreek/products/headsets/man_cc_head/IS_eng.pdf for parts nomenclature). Is that correct?

    Are you sure that you have both bearings and the compression ring installed with the tapers facing the proper way?
     
  8. mikeg

    mikeg New Member

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  9. lohsnest

    lohsnest New Member

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