Problematic Veloce Rear Derailleur

[tafi]

I've been building up a flatbar roadie to ride on errands and to work, from an ebay frame/fork and some bits I've got lying around.

One of the exceptions is a 2011 model Veloce rear derailleur.

When I came to set up the RD, I found that neither the high or low limit screws could be screwed in far enough to prevent overshifting.

It can't be the hanger either. If that were bent then I would expect one limit to be too loose and one too tight, but in this case both limits are too loose.

I took the limit screws out completely and removed the pretension springs. With these removed, I wound the screws back in completely and that was just enough to prevent overshifting. But the limits are still not really tight enough.

I even tried a spare 2008 Chorus model in the same hanger and it could easily be adjusted properly. I would have used the Chorus RD except that it's a little too blingy to be putting on a commuter which will be chained up for much of the day.

I'll probably get a couple of longer screws to substitute in there; that will fix the problem for good. But I guess the point is that I shouldn't have to do that. So either I or Campagnolo have missed something stupid.....

Has anyone else found similar problems? I'd like to see if this is an anomaly with my derailleur or with 2011 Veloce short cages in general.

 

[kdelong]

Could it be that you are using an 11 speed RD with a 9 or 10 speed cassette? I haven't done any research but that is what it sounds like it may be to me.

 

[tafi]

Thanks for the thought but alas, all 2011 Veloce parts are only made for 10s and everything I run at the moment is still 10s.

Even so, the 11s cassette isn't significantly different in overall width to the 10s one (they must fit into the same space on the freehub), and plenty of people have used "10s" derailleurs with otherwise 11s set-ups. Judging by the amount the derailleur was overshifting, it would easily overshift whether the cassette was 9 10 or 11s.

The overshift is incredibly bad. At the low end the cage would go straight into the wheel, even with the screw wound all the way in. Only after removing the tension spring and winding the screw back in all the way does it now stay clear of the spokes (but the limit is still ~1mm too loose).

At the high end it isn't much better. Even with the spring removed and the screw in all the way (as above) the top jockey wheel still comes to rest about 3mm outboard of the 11 sprocket.

Normally you should be able to make the limit adjustments and still have a few mm of adjustment left over.

That said, shifting performance is fine and the bike is rideable.

Thanks again for the suggestion.