Pros and Cons of 650C wheels? Need advice.

[trekker1500]

Hello All,

This is my first visit to this message board. I have been riding seriously for about 15 years. I've got a 12-year old Trek 1400 with 700C wheels. It's maybe time for a new bike. I'm looking at a Trek 1500 WSD. It has 650C wheels, and I'm wondering what experience people have had with them. I've stayed away from women's frames in the past because of this. I always assumed the smaller wheels would put me at a disadvantage.

I don't ride with groups much. But I do like to occasionally. I live in a VERY hilly area and have to do some climbing. I think the smaller wheels may be to my advantage there. But do they make keeping up with the pack difficult? What advantages and disadvantages should I consider? I don't race, just recreational riding (roads and rail-trails).

I'm 5'3" with long legs and short torso. I need a short top tube, and that's what's attracting me to the 1500 WSD. My 1400 is 51cm and the 1500 WSD I'm considering is also 51cm.

Thanks for any advice.
Shannon ([email protected])

 

[e_guevara]

Hello All,

This is my first visit to this message board. I have been riding seriously for about 15 years. I've got a 12-year old Trek 1400 with 700C wheels. It's maybe time for a new bike. I'm looking at a Trek 1500 WSD. It has 650C wheels, and I'm wondering what experience people have had with them. I've stayed away from women's frames in the past because of this. I always assumed the smaller wheels would put me at a disadvantage.

I don't ride with groups much. But I do like to occasionally. I live in a VERY hilly area and have to do some climbing. I think the smaller wheels may be to my advantage there. But do they make keeping up with the pack difficult? What advantages and disadvantages should I consider? I don't race, just recreational riding (roads and rail-trails).

I'm 5'3" with long legs and short torso. I need a short top tube, and that's what's attracting me to the 1500 WSD. My 1400 is 51cm and the 1500 WSD I'm considering is also 51cm.

Thanks for any advice.
Shannon ([email protected])

Given the same gear combination (ex. 53-12), crank length (170mm) and cadence (80), a 700c wheel will go farther (and faster) for every pedal revolution compared to a 650c. See Sheldon Brown's page on Gear Development for more information.

But since you said you don't race, it won't matter whether you use a 700c or a 650c. I just don't see the reason for such an aversion towards 650c wheels.

Just go out and ride!

Cheers!

e_guevara

 

[capwater]

As a 5'3"" female you are no means short so the WSD may not be an advantage. One thing to consider is there are far fewer tire choices with 650 wheels. Even those available are often pricey. Many tri folks I know are shifting away from the 650 tri specific frame to 700s. You should be able to get a 700 compact geometry frame that meets your physical specs, keep looking.

 

[boudreaux]

You should be able to get a 700 compact geometry frame that meets your physical specs, keep looking.

Bull! Compact may give more standover, but not shorter toptube kike she says she needs.

 

[biker13]

Bull! Compact may give more standover, but not shorter toptube kike she says she needs.

My wife just bought a Specialized Dolce Sport. Women Specific and it has 700c wheels on a 44cm frame. She's only 5'. It's the smallest frame we could find that still had 700 wheels. She loves it.

 

[boudreaux]

Given the same gear combination (ex. 53-12), crank length (170mm) and cadence (80), a 700c wheel will go farther (and faster) for every pedal revolution compared to a 650c. See Sheldon Brown's page on Gear Development for more information.

But since you said you don't race, it won't matter whether you use a 700c or a 650c. I just don't see the reason for such an aversion towards 650c wheels.

Just go out and ride!

Cheers!

e_guevara

Right, except crank length has nothing todo with it, just cadence...a frame that fits better trumps the other stuff. Assuming the same chainring teeth and rear casette, the 650 wheels give a bit lower gearing.Better for the hills,and if you are using a casette with a 12 or 13 small cog,you can gain back some of the lost top speed with an 11 cog. If you currently seldom use your smallest cogs,you may not even have to do that.

 

[gclark8]

Felt have several bikes in the 650 wheel size, SR91/81, S25,32, B2, DA, F60, check out some of the TT lengths: http://www.feltracing.com/HOME.html

 

[trekker1500]

the 650 wheels give a bit lower gearing.Better for the hills,and if you are using a casette with a 12 or 13 small cog,you can gain back some of the lost top speed with an 11 cog. If you currently seldom use your smallest cogs,you may not even have to do that.

That's a good point. I guess if I drop to the lower cogs, I am in affect compensating for the smaller wheels. I rarely use the small cogs since I have hilly terrain.

 

[trekker1500]

As a 5'3"" female you are no means short so the WSD may not be an advantage. One thing to consider is there are far fewer tire choices with 650 wheels. Even those available are often pricey. Many tri folks I know are shifting away from the 650 tri specific frame to 700s. You should be able to get a 700 compact geometry frame that meets your physical specs, keep looking.

Lemond and some others make compact frames with 700c wheels. Unfortunately, they really don't shorten up the top tube much. To get a shorter reach than my current Trek 1400 (with 40mm stem), I would have to drop down in frame size. That puts my saddle height way above the bars. I don't like that position so I'd have to put a stem extender on to raise the bars. It seems to me that if I'm making those drastic modifications to get the bike to fit, I've started with a frame that's too small.

 

[boudreaux]

Lemond and some others make compact frames with 700c wheels. Unfortunately, they really don't shorten up the top tube much. To get a shorter reach than my current Trek 1400 (with 40mm stem), I would have to drop down in frame size. That puts my saddle height way above the bars. I don't like that position so I'd have to put a stem extender on to raise the bars. It seems to me that if I'm making those drastic modifications to get the bike to fit, I've started with a frame that's too small.

The shorter TT is the big + for 650 wheels. A 40mm stem is a bit over the top too, and not the best solution to bike fit,but cheaper than a new frame.If you are shopping new bikes, it may be possible to have the steerer left longer for a greater spacer stack and use a stem with a bit of a rise. Better solution than an extender and really something that is done alot with current threadless setups.
The big disadvantage to 650 in your case is more limited tire selection,and maybe lack of support for tires and tubes on organized rides.It would pay to have spare tubes and tires just so you wouldn't get stuck without. The lower gearing does not seem to be an issue in your case.

 

[trekker1500]

A 40mm stem is a bit over the top too, and not the best solution to bike fit,but cheaper than a new frame.If you are shopping new bikes, it may be possible to have the steerer left longer for a greater spacer stack and use a stem with a bit of a rise. Better solution than an extender and really something that is done alot with current threadless setups.

The 40mm was a "necessity" on my 1400 because it has a traditional men's frame geometry. The TT and long stem made me pull foward on the saddle to try to reach the bars. That is very uncomfortable as you might imagine. Of course, my 1400 has a threaded design. You are right and the threadless stems will allow me to use one with some rise to it.

If I go with the 51cm frame there's no need for an extender. But I'd HAVE to get one with the 47cm frame. The seat is far too high above the bars otherwise.

Thanks again for the advice.
Shannon