T
Trevor Jeffrey
Guest
Chalo wrote in message <[email protected]>...
Perhaps the lightest cartridge hubs used titanium axles.
What was their weight, and how do they compare to Campag Record with
titanium axles(c1980)? Compare like with like here. Exlude skewers off
all.
>So to you, a mallet is a "special tool"? My oldest wheel has its
>original bearing cartridges in it. At about 35,000 miles it is
>beginning to exhibit wear and a bit of roughness in the bearing
>surfaces, but no more so than the average _brand new_ cup & cone hub.
>
That is admirable that you still have a serviceable unit using original
cartridge bearings after 35,000miles. Are they sealed cartridge?
What is the exact type of bearing , dimensions and fit?
What is the make/model of hub, cost and when?
So how do you know a mallet is all it would take to exchange these bearings?
Has it seen water?
Actual service life is important, but how well does it roll compared to an
equivalently priced cup&cone model of the same period.
That bit of roughness shows the bearing surface has failed.
OK for some people tub's may be inappropriate due to the lack of
availability of wide off the peg models. At a guess I think you would need
35mm section in a tub a little more with wired-on.
Motorcycle - Nice big motor with plenty of reserve power, large wheel
bearings large stiff rear fork/front fork thick solid axles.
Power of motorcycle typically160 000watts
Power of cyclist 120watts
priority of cyclist - develop a little bit of power, make it go, make it
stop, make it turn, pare weight
priority of motorcyclist - Develop plenty of power, make it go, make it
stop, make it turn, protect components
>
>There are such bearing cartridges as you describe, but they are not
>generally used in bicycles. The usual kind are "double sealed deep
>groove radial contact" bearings, with two contact points per ball.
This type of bearing, has a high degree of osculation and much sliding
takes place, so is intolerant to contaminent and must be highly protected
against ingress so upping the cost of the hub. The slow and stop conditions
of a bicycle make this the quickest wearing choice of rolling bearing .
Without renewal of lubricant alongside removal of wear debris, this will
make it the first to fail through fatigue. It is almost not a rolling
bearing.
What milage do the bearing surfaces of this type typacally fail at? And at
what size are they?
I feel it woul be more apprpriate to use taper rollers with an oil feed.
This requires adjustment but I don't think is available in the small sizes
required for hubs and pedals antway.
What you infer is that for the inexpert or forgetful mechanic, sealed
cartridges are more suitable. I say, if it drips oil, a cup and cone
bearing will outlive you.
I think that your assessment of c&c bearings being poor is based on
experience with incorrectly lubricated units. Ideally the balls should roll
in an oil bath.
TJ
Perhaps the lightest cartridge hubs used titanium axles.
What was their weight, and how do they compare to Campag Record with
titanium axles(c1980)? Compare like with like here. Exlude skewers off
all.
>So to you, a mallet is a "special tool"? My oldest wheel has its
>original bearing cartridges in it. At about 35,000 miles it is
>beginning to exhibit wear and a bit of roughness in the bearing
>surfaces, but no more so than the average _brand new_ cup & cone hub.
>
That is admirable that you still have a serviceable unit using original
cartridge bearings after 35,000miles. Are they sealed cartridge?
What is the exact type of bearing , dimensions and fit?
What is the make/model of hub, cost and when?
So how do you know a mallet is all it would take to exchange these bearings?
Has it seen water?
Actual service life is important, but how well does it roll compared to an
equivalently priced cup&cone model of the same period.
That bit of roughness shows the bearing surface has failed.
OK for some people tub's may be inappropriate due to the lack of
availability of wide off the peg models. At a guess I think you would need
35mm section in a tub a little more with wired-on.
Motorcycle - Nice big motor with plenty of reserve power, large wheel
bearings large stiff rear fork/front fork thick solid axles.
Power of motorcycle typically160 000watts
Power of cyclist 120watts
priority of cyclist - develop a little bit of power, make it go, make it
stop, make it turn, pare weight
priority of motorcyclist - Develop plenty of power, make it go, make it
stop, make it turn, protect components
>
>There are such bearing cartridges as you describe, but they are not
>generally used in bicycles. The usual kind are "double sealed deep
>groove radial contact" bearings, with two contact points per ball.
This type of bearing, has a high degree of osculation and much sliding
takes place, so is intolerant to contaminent and must be highly protected
against ingress so upping the cost of the hub. The slow and stop conditions
of a bicycle make this the quickest wearing choice of rolling bearing .
Without renewal of lubricant alongside removal of wear debris, this will
make it the first to fail through fatigue. It is almost not a rolling
bearing.
What milage do the bearing surfaces of this type typacally fail at? And at
what size are they?
I feel it woul be more apprpriate to use taper rollers with an oil feed.
This requires adjustment but I don't think is available in the small sizes
required for hubs and pedals antway.
What you infer is that for the inexpert or forgetful mechanic, sealed
cartridges are more suitable. I say, if it drips oil, a cup and cone
bearing will outlive you.
I think that your assessment of c&c bearings being poor is based on
experience with incorrectly lubricated units. Ideally the balls should roll
in an oil bath.
TJ