Questions about changing gears!
- Thread starter silkshaker2304
- Start date
silkshaker2304 said:
Information about changing gears.
I don't mean to be facetious but have you never ridden a bike with gears
before ?
I am happy to give you information about this - but before doing so, I'd like to ascertain your knowledge level to make my answer is more relevant to help you
When to change gear is a lot more difficult to explain.
But we'll get to that once we get the gear operating bit out of the way !
silkshaker2304 said:
I don't mean to be facetious but have you never ridden a bike with gears
before ?
I would be glad to explain how to operate the gears but before doing so it would help if I could guage how much (little ???) you know about gears.
As regards when to change gear - that is a little bit more indepth.
let's get the gear operating part out of the way first.
I know how to actually change the gears and yes i have rode a bike with gears before, but im uncertain as to when i should change them. I am a first time rider as far as riding a road bike. I had a ten speed when I was younger and changed gears....but didnt know why or when i should change them. I'm not such a dork that I dont know how to switch the gearslimerickman said:
Ok : well basically you know that the left handlebar gear lever controls the chainring selection (chainring being the ring located at your pedals) and the right handlebar gear lever controls the sprocket gear selection (sprocket being the gears located at your rear wheel).
Most bikes have a two chainrings (referred to as double chainring).
The bigger ring (the ring closest to your right pedal) is a higher gear and is harder to pedal than the smaller chainring (inner ring).
There could well be a third chainring which is the smallest ring : this is the easiest of the three chainrings to pedal.
If you intend to change the chainring upon which the bicycle chain rests, you need to manoevre the gear lever located on the left side of your
handlebar to do so.
The same applies to the sprockets located at the back wheel.
The smallest sprocket gear (the sprocket furthest away in distance from your rear wheel) is the hardest to gear to pedal.
As you look at the rear wheel, the sprockets which are located more closely to the rear wheel (they get progressively bigger in size) are easier to pedal.
If you intend to change the sprocket upon which the bicycle chain rests, you need to manoevre the gear lever located on the right side of your
handlebar.
When to use what gears, is more problematic.
It is essentially trial and error.
For someone who isn't cycling regularly, I would suggest using the inner chainring (the smaller chainring located at the pedals), and select a sprocket
that is one of the bigger (physically) sprockets on the rear wheel : maybe the third or fourth sprocket away from the rear wheel.
If pedalling in this gear is relatively easy - then select a rear wheel sprocket
that is further away from the rear wheel, which makes pedalling a harder but which doesn't exhaust you.
Ideally you want a gear that makes you work, but which won't exhaust and which you can pedal with moderate effort.
When you have located the gear ratio (that's what this process is defined as)
that you are comfortable with you should try to pedal for as long as possible using that gear ratio, until you become accustomed to it.
If the terrain starts to incline and you feel that you cannot maintain a smooth
and comfortable pedalling action using that gear ratio, move the right gear lever to select a rear sprocket closer to the rear wheel.
When you find a gear that allows you to cycle the incline comfortably, try to stay in that gear.
When you reach the top and start to descend, you can then select a rear sprocket further from the back wheel to allow you to cycle down hill at a speed that you are comfortable with.
What you need to keep in mind is to select gears which make maximise the speed that you want to travel at, without straining yourself.
I hope this helps.
Most bikes have a two chainrings (referred to as double chainring).
The bigger ring (the ring closest to your right pedal) is a higher gear and is harder to pedal than the smaller chainring (inner ring).
There could well be a third chainring which is the smallest ring : this is the easiest of the three chainrings to pedal.
If you intend to change the chainring upon which the bicycle chain rests, you need to manoevre the gear lever located on the left side of your
handlebar to do so.
The same applies to the sprockets located at the back wheel.
The smallest sprocket gear (the sprocket furthest away in distance from your rear wheel) is the hardest to gear to pedal.
As you look at the rear wheel, the sprockets which are located more closely to the rear wheel (they get progressively bigger in size) are easier to pedal.
If you intend to change the sprocket upon which the bicycle chain rests, you need to manoevre the gear lever located on the right side of your
handlebar.
When to use what gears, is more problematic.
It is essentially trial and error.
For someone who isn't cycling regularly, I would suggest using the inner chainring (the smaller chainring located at the pedals), and select a sprocket
that is one of the bigger (physically) sprockets on the rear wheel : maybe the third or fourth sprocket away from the rear wheel.
If pedalling in this gear is relatively easy - then select a rear wheel sprocket
that is further away from the rear wheel, which makes pedalling a harder but which doesn't exhaust you.
Ideally you want a gear that makes you work, but which won't exhaust and which you can pedal with moderate effort.
When you have located the gear ratio (that's what this process is defined as)
that you are comfortable with you should try to pedal for as long as possible using that gear ratio, until you become accustomed to it.
If the terrain starts to incline and you feel that you cannot maintain a smooth
and comfortable pedalling action using that gear ratio, move the right gear lever to select a rear sprocket closer to the rear wheel.
When you find a gear that allows you to cycle the incline comfortably, try to stay in that gear.
When you reach the top and start to descend, you can then select a rear sprocket further from the back wheel to allow you to cycle down hill at a speed that you are comfortable with.
What you need to keep in mind is to select gears which make maximise the speed that you want to travel at, without straining yourself.
I hope this helps.
Fit the bike with a computer with Cadence.
Start on a flat road select the middle (if 3) or smaller (if 2) front chainring.
Select a gear around the centre of the rear cassette.
Pedal to a comfortable speed, check cadence, if below 85 shift to a lower gear, if above 95 shift to a higher gear.
Then its just a matter of "muscle memory", note the load that 90 (approx) cadence is and change the gear to maintain the same effort, up hill, on flats, and down hill.
When you get to the end of the cassette (or 1 gear from the end) a change of front chainring will make it more comfortable.
I have taught several ladies this way with 100% success.
Start on a flat road select the middle (if 3) or smaller (if 2) front chainring.
Select a gear around the centre of the rear cassette.
Pedal to a comfortable speed, check cadence, if below 85 shift to a lower gear, if above 95 shift to a higher gear.
Then its just a matter of "muscle memory", note the load that 90 (approx) cadence is and change the gear to maintain the same effort, up hill, on flats, and down hill.
When you get to the end of the cassette (or 1 gear from the end) a change of front chainring will make it more comfortable.
I have taught several ladies this way with 100% success.
There is a lot of information on Sheldon Brown's website about changing gears. I think you will find his article helpful. Go to the following URL: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.htmlsilkshaker2304 said:
Generally it is all to do with cadence (i.e. how fast your legs go round). Ideally you want to pedal at the same cadence no matter what to conditions.silkshaker2304 said:
The most efficient cadence for racing cycists is approximately 90rpm, this will vary a little from person to person, but unless you race at a very high level it is not worth worrying about the difference.
The range of cadence actually used for a variety of conditions probably ranges from 60 rpm to 120 rpm, as a beginner, you should start with aiming for 70-80 rpm. When comfortable with that, then if interested in racing, aim for 90-100 rpm in your training rides. NB your cadence will be lower when climbing hills.
Then, just change gear when your legs are going round too slowly (<70) or too fast (>100). Although it is very unlikely that you will be pedaling too fast as most beginners find it very hard to pedal at 90 rpm for an extended period of time.
You can fit a bike computer that will measure cadence for you but that is not really necessary as you can easily estimate cadence by counting how many revolutions your legs do in 10 seconds and multiply by 6. Do that a few times while trying out different gears and you'll soon recognise how fast you need to spin.
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