T
Travis
Guest
There are some great prices on Ultegra 10sp stuff at Probikekit and
other places. Using the "kit builder" you can choose which bits you
want, and don't want.
Can anyone give some relative newbie pointers on the pros and cons of
different casettes: 11-23, 12-23,12-25,12-27. Undoubtedly a large
amount of personal preference plays a role, but presumably there are
some guidelines about which casettes are suitable for which roles.
Obviously the bigger casettes are better for really steep hill climbing
because it gives a lower granny gear, but perhaps there is more to it
than meets my eye.
What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
(leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
(crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
do both as fast as possible.
I have no idea what this thing is: Prorace Braze-On to Band-On Gear
Adaptor: 31.8mm or 34.9mm. What does this do, do I need one for a Trek
2300 being converted from Ultegra 9sp to Ultegra 10sp, and do I need a
31.8mm or 34.9mm?
Also, which 10sp bits work on a 9sp groupset? Do I have to buy it all
at once, or could I buy, say, a new crank and rings now and the rest
later? I assume that 10sp STI shifters do not work on a 9sp groupset
(which is unfortunate, because my 9sp STIs are flakey and if I could
just replace those alone I'd probably be fine for a while).
Travis
other places. Using the "kit builder" you can choose which bits you
want, and don't want.
Can anyone give some relative newbie pointers on the pros and cons of
different casettes: 11-23, 12-23,12-25,12-27. Undoubtedly a large
amount of personal preference plays a role, but presumably there are
some guidelines about which casettes are suitable for which roles.
Obviously the bigger casettes are better for really steep hill climbing
because it gives a lower granny gear, but perhaps there is more to it
than meets my eye.
What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
(leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
(crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
do both as fast as possible.
I have no idea what this thing is: Prorace Braze-On to Band-On Gear
Adaptor: 31.8mm or 34.9mm. What does this do, do I need one for a Trek
2300 being converted from Ultegra 9sp to Ultegra 10sp, and do I need a
31.8mm or 34.9mm?
Also, which 10sp bits work on a 9sp groupset? Do I have to buy it all
at once, or could I buy, say, a new crank and rings now and the rest
later? I assume that 10sp STI shifters do not work on a 9sp groupset
(which is unfortunate, because my 9sp STIs are flakey and if I could
just replace those alone I'd probably be fine for a while).
Travis