rattling cable on top tube



peterwright

New Member
Mar 5, 2003
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I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying noise ???

I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come off over a few weeks.

Thanks

Peter
 
Originally posted by peterwright
I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying noise ???

I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come off over a few weeks.

Thanks

Peter

Cable Silencers (rubber circles) are designed for the job.
Try a drop of RTV to hold them in place.
Other methods that I have tried are ugly but effective:
Foam self adhesive tape under the housing on the top tube or complete wraps of handle-bar tape in the area.
 
"peterwright" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am
> suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the
> top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying
> noise ???

Take the black round insulating foam that they use for pipes
and wrap your top tube in it. Wait, why stop there? Wrap the
top tube, the down tube, the fork legs, the stem, the stays,
and your seatpost! Not only will your bike be completely
immune to theft, it makes a great conversation piece, too!
Not to mention you can slam your balls into the top tube and
it won't hurt (as much).

Or do what I do and tune it out. I'll put rubbers on the
next time ;)

Phil
 
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In article <[email protected]>,
peterwright <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am
>suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the
>top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying
>noise ???
>
>I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come
>off over a few weeks.
>

_ If you can find a source of vinyl heat shrink tubing (
Fry's or Radio shack might be a good bet ) , you could try
the 1/8 th inch size. Just be sure to leave enough bare
space on both ends to not interfere with the brake
operation.

_ Booker C. Bense

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3 or 4 wraps of pvc electrical tape in the middle of the
exposed noisy cable. Comes in lots of colours and if it
comes of put more on, it's cheap. The little rubbery cable
silencers work good and are a little cleaner looking.

jeffb
 
Yet another example of obsessive weight reduction. The cable
belongs inside the top tube, where it doesn't snag skin and
clothing. I think I'd be more than a little miffed with a
rattle on a $3000 bicycle.

Bernie

"jeffbonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 3 or 4 wraps of pvc electrical tape in the middle of the
> exposed noisy cable. Comes in lots of colours and if it
> comes of put more on, it's cheap. The little rubbery cable
> silencers work good and are a little cleaner looking.
>
> jeffb
 
peterwright <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am
> suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the
> top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying
> noise ???
>
> I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come
> off over a few weeks.
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter
>
This is an easily solved problem. Any competent bike shop
will have cable tubing. This is small plastic tubing that
fits over the exposed cable along the top tube. Or
chainstays for the derailleur cable. It does not replace the
actual housing. It just covers the exposed cable in between
the frames housing stops. Comes in black, white and clear.
My bike shop charged me a nickel for a 16" length for my top
tube last week. I believe the link below is the product from
QBP. No picture. Comes in 30 meter rolls so bike shops can
have it on hand.

http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=CA2206
 
Years ago cable housing came with the plastic lining
separate from the housing itself. This plastic lining is
still available from Quality Bicycle Products. I just cut a
piece of the stuff a couple of inches shorter than the
length of the exposed cable and slip it on when installing a
new cable. It stops the noise BUT it makes it more difficult
to lube the cables without dissassembly.

The other problem is that it comes in rolls of 25 meters (or
something like that) which is pretty much a lifetime supply.
A bike shop might have some so they could sell you the short
piece that you'd need.

Also, as an earlier responder noted, shrink tubing of an
appropriate size from Radio Shack will do the job just as
well and you can buy that by the inch (or foot or
something).

Bob

peterwright <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am
> suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the
> top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying
> noise ???
>
> I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come
> off over a few weeks.
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> --
 
Years ago cable housing came with the plastic lining
separate from the housing itself. This plastic lining is
still available from Quality Bicycle Products. I just cut a
piece of the stuff a couple of inches shorter than the
length of the exposed cable and slip it on when installing a
new cable. It stops the noise BUT it makes it more difficult
to lube the cables without dissassembly.

The other problem is that it comes in rolls of 25 meters (or
something like that) which is pretty much a lifetime supply.
A bike shop might have some so they could sell you the short
piece that you'd need.

Also, as an earlier responder noted, shrink tubing of an
appropriate size from Radio Shack will do the job just as
well and you can buy that by the inch (or foot or
something).

Bob

peterwright <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a L/speed Ghisallo with Nokon cables and am
> suffering from the rattle of the rear brake cable on the
> top tube. What is the best way to damp this annoying
> noise ???
>
> I have put on a few rubber circles but they have all come
> off over a few weeks.
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> --
 
So "baltobernie" <[email protected]> says:

>Yet another example of obsessive weight reduction. The
>cable belongs inside the top tube, where it doesn't snag
>skin and clothing. I think I'd be more than a little miffed
>with a rattle on a $3000 bicycle.
>
>Bernie

I strongly disagree. If you route it through the tube how
you gonna slip the housing to give the cable a quick lube? A
Retrotech is the only bike I recall having with internal
routing and it was a pain in the ass (although on that bike
an essential one.)

jeffb
 
"jeffbonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So "baltobernie" <[email protected]> says:
>
> >Yet another example of obsessive weight reduction. The
> >cable belongs
inside
> >the top tube, where it doesn't snag skin and clothing. I
> >think I'd be
more
> >than a little miffed with a rattle on a $3000 bicycle.
> >
> >Bernie
>
> I strongly disagree. If you route it through the tube how
> you gonna slip the housing to give the cable a quick lube?
> A Retrotech is the only bike I recall having with internal
> routing and it was a pain in the ass (although on that
> bike an essential one.)
>
> jeffb

The framebuilder brazes an internal conduit of (usually
stainless) tubing, whose internal diameter is only a few
thousandths larger than the OD of a sheathed cable. Thus the
cable remains sheathed from lever to caliper, and of course
the whole cable can be easily inserted into the top tube.
Two fewer points of entry for gunk to get between the cable
and housing, and it looks very elegant, but requires some
craftsmanship and probably adds a entire ounce to the bike.

Bernie (remove numerals to Reply)
 
So "baltobernie" <[email protected]> says:
>
>The framebuilder brazes an internal conduit of (usually
>stainless) tubing, whose internal diameter is only a few
>thousandths larger than the OD of a sheathed cable. Thus
>the cable remains sheathed from lever to caliper, and of
>course the whole cable can be easily inserted into the top
>tube. Two fewer points of entry for gunk to get between
>the cable and housing, and it looks very elegant, but
>requires some craftsmanship and probably adds a entire
>ounce to the bike.
>
I understand the concept and agree it looks clean and has
some practical advantages but having exposed shifter cable
makes it easier to do the quickie maintenance lubes
essential with modern index shifting.

jeffb
 
"jeffbonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So "baltobernie" <[email protected]> says:
> >
> >The framebuilder brazes an internal conduit of (usually
> >stainless)
tubing,
> >whose internal diameter is only a few thousandths larger
> >than the OD of a sheathed cable. Thus the cable remains
> >sheathed from lever to caliper,
and
> >of course the whole cable can be easily inserted into the
> >top tube. Two fewer points of entry for gunk to get
> >between the cable and housing, and
it
> >looks very elegant, but requires some craftsmanship and
> >probably adds a entire ounce to the bike.
> >
> I understand the concept and agree it looks clean and has
> some practical advantages but having exposed shifter cable
> makes it easier to do the quickie maintenance lubes
> essential with modern index shifting.
>
> jeffb

If the cable is continuously housed along its entire length,
would it not require less cleaning and lubrication? That's
been the case with my Campy 8-speed; once every couple of
thousand miles. I do have the little accordion bootie on the
rear D, but I'm not sure of its prophylactic value.

But .... whatever works for you (even if its Shimano)

Bernie chores done today: riding tomorrow
 
So "baltobernie" <[email protected]> says:

>If the cable is continuously housed along its entire
>length, would it not require less cleaning and
>lubrication? That's been the case with my Campy 8-speed;
>once every couple of thousand miles. I do have the little
>accordion bootie on the rear D, but I'm not sure of its
>prophylactic value.

You might have a point.

>But .... whatever works for you (even if its Shimano)

Ahhh, I see now. You're talking real components and I was
thinking more in terms of making Shimano work...

Shimano is one reason I went to single speeds. I did give in
to convenience an put on some XTR brakes and levers but they
work well.

jeffb