Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Re: A brake question regarding old equipment.

Started by A Muzi · · Last activity · 3 posts · 425 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
26 December 2004
Last activity
27 December 2004
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A Muzi
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  1. !Jones said:

    I'm restoring an old (early '80s) tandem. It is fitted with old-style
    cantilever brakes. Will the newer "V-brakes" fit those brazed
    fittings? I'm keeping the old Suntour stuff; however, those brakes
    aren't gonna cut muster, I fear. They're about 11 & 1/2 inches from
    the center of a 27" wheel... that's a tape measurement.

    Suntour cantilever brakes were made by Dia Compe and are of
    good quality. Many cantilever setups suffer from poor prep
    and you'll find much useful advice on Sheldon Brown's site.

    (The optional "self energizing" model stinks IMHO but they
    bring a good price on EBay.)

    If you're determined to use linear ("V"😉 brakes, excellent
    models are cheap - in the mid twenties. Avoid expensive ones
    as they offer IMHO nothing that the basic Tektro models
    don't do better. You will need adapters at the brakes to
    translate normal cable travel from your levers into the long
    cable travel these brakes require.

    Most cantilevers and V brakes will span enough pad height
    adjustment to cover both 700C and 27" on an older tandem.
    But definitely check that at your LBS before you buy because
    some models won't.

    Cantilevers offer better clearance, less difficulty mounting
    racks and mudguards and a wider range of 'feel' - higher
    transverse cables will feel stiffer, lower heights will feel
    softer and stop better.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  2. Andy Muzi said:

    Most cantilevers and V brakes will span enough pad height adjustment to
    cover both 700C and 27" on an older tandem.

    This will vary not just with the cantis, but also with the placement of
    the canti pivots on the specific frame and fork. There's not too much
    standardization there. Some frames will handle the 4 mm height
    difference, others won't, with any model of cantilever.

    Quoted message said:

    But definitely check that at
    your LBS before you buy because some models won't.

    Yep.

    Sheldon "Happy Boxing Day!" Brown
    Newtonville, Massachusetts
    +-------------------------------------------------------+
    | I am too much of a skeptic to deny the possibility |
    | of anything. --T.H. Huxley |
    +-------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  3. A Muzi said:

    Cantilevers offer better clearance, less difficulty mounting racks and
    mudguards and a wider range of 'feel' - higher transverse cables will
    feel stiffer, lower heights will feel softer and stop better.

    My straddle wires are set as low as possible and the brakes are still
    very weak (front are Suntour XC something, rear are Suntour SE
    cantilevers). I've tried different pads which were better than the
    stock Suntour ones, but didn't help all that much.

    Given how incredibly difficult it is to set up new pads on plain-post
    cantis, I'm converting to plain, cheap Deore V-brakes and 287V levers.
    Even if there's no more power, I don't have that hour of fiddling when I
    need to change the pads. The V's on my mountain bike (with matching
    levers) are very impressive compared to the old Dia-Compe 986
    cantilevers and weird Cannondale Force 40 cable routing. In fact, V's
    are the only real option for these old Dales because they don't have
    conventional cable hangers.

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