Re: Does anyone dislike Prolink chain lube?

[Mike Yankee]

>just curious--what makes ProLink better?

See if you can find Lennard Zinn's blurb on ProLink in Velo News about
3 years ago. Basically the stuff is a repackaged [for cycling]
lubricant that was developed to keep mining and outdoor equipment, with
all sorts of exposed chains, pivots, gears, etc., running smoothly in
unimaginably dirty, gritty and wet environments.

I generally don't ride in messy conditions, except in winter. The
other day I reapplied ProLink for the first time in ~400 miles of
winter road riding with salt, sand, slop, etc. Before applying, I ran
the chain through a shop rag to clean the outside; that's all it takes.
During all those miles the chain ran smoothly and quietly. That would
not have happened with other oil-based lubes I've tried, which collect
too much dirt and let it inside the chain pivots, or with Pedro's Ice
Wax, which is an OK lube but doesn't last very long.

 

[Mike Owens]

"Mike Yankee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >just curious--what makes ProLink better?
>
> See if you can find Lennard Zinn's blurb on ProLink in Velo News about
> 3 years ago. Basically the stuff is a repackaged [for cycling]
> lubricant that was developed to keep mining and outdoor equipment, with
> all sorts of exposed chains, pivots, gears, etc., running smoothly in
> unimaginably dirty, gritty and wet environments.
>
> I generally don't ride in messy conditions, except in winter. The
> other day I reapplied ProLink for the first time in ~400 miles of
> winter road riding with salt, sand, slop, etc. Before applying, I ran
> the chain through a shop rag to clean the outside; that's all it takes.
> During all those miles the chain ran smoothly and quietly. That would
> not have happened with other oil-based lubes I've tried, which collect
> too much dirt and let it inside the chain pivots, or with Pedro's Ice
> Wax, which is an OK lube but doesn't last very long.
>
I used ProLink a number of years ago when it first came out. It was/is made
in the Atlanta area and the owner kept me on the phone for 15 minutes just
talking about cycling in the area. I liked the smell and it easier to use
(just reapply to a dirty chain) than full cleaning and reapplication of
oil-based lubricants. I went through 3 bottles over the course of 2-3
years. ProLink-lubed chains needed reapplication after every wet ride. I
returned to slightly thinned chain saw oil. My chains run quieter with the
chainsaw lube and hold up in the rain better. Easy enough to wipe dirt off
the outside.
-Mike

 

[(Pete Cresswell)]

Per Mike Owens:
>slightly thinned chain saw oil.

What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
--
PeteCresswell

 

[Mike Owens]

"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:09:41 -0500, "(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Per Mike Owens:
>>>slightly thinned chain saw oil.
>>
>>What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
>>chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
>
> I mix with mineral spirits about 4:1 thinner : oil, apply with a small
> sash
> brush (that lives for this job) and wipe with a shop rag. Scrub a little
> with
> the brush if the chain is badly crudded up. Just work the chain around a
> few
> times with the brush on, wipe off maneuver, do the same for the
> chainwheels and
> cogs and we're done. I'll do this every week or two, usually. More often
> if I'm
> riding through a lot of our local sand.
>
> Ron

It is my understanding that chain saw oil is already a little thinner than
motor oil but I do ~1 part mineral spirits: 4-6 parts oil (it doesn't take
much at all to really change the viscosity and is the opposite ratio of that
stated above). I apply 1 drop per link using a discarded Shimano Splippery
Spitt bottle with it's thin red applicator tip. I rotate three chains and
clean all three at once a few times a year.
-Mike

 

[Robin Hubert]

Mike Owens wrote:
> "RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:09:41 -0500, "(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Per Mike Owens:
>>>
>>>>slightly thinned chain saw oil.
>>>
>>>What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
>>>chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
>>
>>I mix with mineral spirits about 4:1 thinner : oil, apply with a small
>>sash
>>brush (that lives for this job) and wipe with a shop rag. Scrub a little
>>with
>>the brush if the chain is badly crudded up. Just work the chain around a
>>few
>>times with the brush on, wipe off maneuver, do the same for the
>>chainwheels and
>>cogs and we're done. I'll do this every week or two, usually. More often
>>if I'm
>>riding through a lot of our local sand.
>>
>>Ron
>
>
> It is my understanding that chain saw oil is already a little thinner than
> motor oil but I do ~1 part mineral spirits: 4-6 parts oil (it doesn't take
> much at all to really change the viscosity and is the opposite ratio of that
> stated above). I apply 1 drop per link using a discarded Shimano Splippery
> Spitt bottle with it's thin red applicator tip. I rotate three chains and
> clean all three at once a few times a year.
> -Mike
>
>

I use old 2 oz. Triflow bottles the same way, usually with 30W,
sometimes chainsaw oil.

Robin Hubert

 

[RonSonic]

On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 09:18:44 -0500, "Mike Owens" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:09:41 -0500, "(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Per Mike Owens:
>>>>slightly thinned chain saw oil.
>>>
>>>What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
>>>chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
>>
>> I mix with mineral spirits about 4:1 thinner : oil, apply with a small
>> sash
>> brush (that lives for this job) and wipe with a shop rag. Scrub a little
>> with
>> the brush if the chain is badly crudded up. Just work the chain around a
>> few
>> times with the brush on, wipe off maneuver, do the same for the
>> chainwheels and
>> cogs and we're done. I'll do this every week or two, usually. More often
>> if I'm
>> riding through a lot of our local sand.
>>
>> Ron
>
>It is my understanding that chain saw oil is already a little thinner than
>motor oil but I do ~1 part mineral spirits: 4-6 parts oil (it doesn't take
>much at all to really change the viscosity and is the opposite ratio of that
>stated above). I apply 1 drop per link using a discarded Shimano Splippery
>Spitt bottle with it's thin red applicator tip. I rotate three chains and
>clean all three at once a few times a year.
>-Mike

The oil I'm using feels like about 40 weight. Anyway, I'm applying the stuff
with a paint brush and doing it frequently so the thinner mix works and leaves
enough oil on to lubricate but not enough to catch a lot more crud. I'm doing
some 'cross racing and in Florida means a lot of sand so I like the chain almost
dry. If I weren't lazy and put it on drop at a time your thicker mix would be
better.

Ron

Ron

 

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:57:43 GMT, RonSonic
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 09:18:44 -0500, "Mike Owens" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:09:41 -0500, "(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Per Mike Owens:
>>>>>slightly thinned chain saw oil.
>>>>
>>>>What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
>>>>chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
>>>
>>> I mix with mineral spirits about 4:1 thinner : oil, apply with a small
>>> sash
>>> brush (that lives for this job) and wipe with a shop rag. Scrub a little
>>> with
>>> the brush if the chain is badly crudded up. Just work the chain around a
>>> few
>>> times with the brush on, wipe off maneuver, do the same for the
>>> chainwheels and
>>> cogs and we're done. I'll do this every week or two, usually. More often
>>> if I'm
>>> riding through a lot of our local sand.
>>>
>>> Ron
>>
>>It is my understanding that chain saw oil is already a little thinner than
>>motor oil but I do ~1 part mineral spirits: 4-6 parts oil (it doesn't take
>>much at all to really change the viscosity and is the opposite ratio of that
>>stated above). I apply 1 drop per link using a discarded Shimano Splippery
>>Spitt bottle with it's thin red applicator tip. I rotate three chains and
>>clean all three at once a few times a year.
>>-Mike
>
>The oil I'm using feels like about 40 weight. Anyway, I'm applying the stuff
>with a paint brush and doing it frequently so the thinner mix works and leaves
>enough oil on to lubricate but not enough to catch a lot more crud. I'm doing
>some 'cross racing and in Florida means a lot of sand so I like the chain almost
>dry. If I weren't lazy and put it on drop at a time your thicker mix would be
>better.
>
>Ron

Dear Mike and Ron,

Well, I can't say that I've learned much specific about the
ProLink, but your posts taught me something about chainsaw
oil.

I had a vague notion that chainsaw oil was much thicker than
motor oil, but you seem to be right:

http://www.aidfueloils.co.uk/h&s/farm oils/chainsawspec.htm

This site says its brand of chainsaw oil is 30w for cold
weather, 50w for hot.

And here I was wondering if my 85w-150 gear oil in the $8
gallon jug was too thin!

Carl Fogel

 

[RonSonic]

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 00:38:46 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:57:43 GMT, RonSonic
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 09:18:44 -0500, "Mike Owens" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:09:41 -0500, "(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Per Mike Owens:
>>>>>>slightly thinned chain saw oil.
>>>>>
>>>>>What's your recipe? I like ProLink too, but there's almost a quart of
>>>>>chainsaw oil that's been sitting unused in my garden shed for years.
>>>>
>>>> I mix with mineral spirits about 4:1 thinner : oil, apply with a small
>>>> sash
>>>> brush (that lives for this job) and wipe with a shop rag. Scrub a little
>>>> with
>>>> the brush if the chain is badly crudded up. Just work the chain around a
>>>> few
>>>> times with the brush on, wipe off maneuver, do the same for the
>>>> chainwheels and
>>>> cogs and we're done. I'll do this every week or two, usually. More often
>>>> if I'm
>>>> riding through a lot of our local sand.
>>>>
>>>> Ron
>>>
>>>It is my understanding that chain saw oil is already a little thinner than
>>>motor oil but I do ~1 part mineral spirits: 4-6 parts oil (it doesn't take
>>>much at all to really change the viscosity and is the opposite ratio of that
>>>stated above). I apply 1 drop per link using a discarded Shimano Splippery
>>>Spitt bottle with it's thin red applicator tip. I rotate three chains and
>>>clean all three at once a few times a year.
>>>-Mike
>>
>>The oil I'm using feels like about 40 weight. Anyway, I'm applying the stuff
>>with a paint brush and doing it frequently so the thinner mix works and leaves
>>enough oil on to lubricate but not enough to catch a lot more crud. I'm doing
>>some 'cross racing and in Florida means a lot of sand so I like the chain almost
>>dry. If I weren't lazy and put it on drop at a time your thicker mix would be
>>better.
>>
>>Ron
>
>Dear Mike and Ron,
>
>Well, I can't say that I've learned much specific about the
>ProLink, but your posts taught me something about chainsaw
>oil.
>
>I had a vague notion that chainsaw oil was much thicker than
>motor oil, but you seem to be right:
>
>http://www.aidfueloils.co.uk/h&s/farm oils/chainsawspec.htm
>
>This site says its brand of chainsaw oil is 30w for cold
>weather, 50w for hot.
>
>And here I was wondering if my 85w-150 gear oil in the $8
>gallon jug was too thin!

The trick is getting it _IN_ there where the little frictionites live. That gear
oil with its unique and lovely aroma gets ON the chain and is a pain to wipe off
- it'll tear the rag out of your hand. I'd try my thinning trick with it. You
don't need a lot of oil, just need it in the right places. But then it all
depends on the hazards in your environment and how you clean and apply I guess.

Exposed oil turns into an abrasive, viscous slurry around here and even with the
SRAM links I dislike dismounting and cleaning and reinstalling chains.

Anyway, we are wandering into the forbidden topic of chain care and the unholy
wars fought over the one true and correct way of cleaning and lubing.

Ron