Re: Go Faster New Bike Recommendations ?

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by Roger Zoul, Dec 9, 2004.

  1. Roger Zoul

    Roger Zoul Guest

    Get a trek.


    Steve Sr. wrote:
    || Well, I have finally decided that I need to get a lighter weight bike
    || so that I can start to be able to keep up with some of the faster
    || folks on club and shop rides.
    ||
    || I am currently using a Cannondale T2000 as an all-purpose road bike.
    || It was originally bought mostly for commuting so it has fenders, rear
    || rack, and front handlebar bag. I made the mistake of putting it on
    || the bathroom scale once and it topped out at about 38 pounds with
    || full water bottles.
    ||
    || Anyway, I'm in the market for a lighter weight regular road bike and
    || would like some feedback on possible options. Cost is a consideration
    || but not an overriding one.
    ||
    ||
    || Here are the things that I want to have on the new bike:
    ||
    || 1. The frame material I am leaning toward is TI. I have found that
    || the Cannondale aluminum is pretty stiff and produces a pretty bumpy
    || ride despite the wider tires. I am leaning away from carbon as too
    || expensive and maybe not rugged enough and steel as too heavy. You can
    || correct me if I'm wrong here. I wouldn't mind having the braze-ons
    || for adding a rear rack for credit card touring.
    ||
    || 2. Tripple front crank with 170mm crank arms. I have a 29" inseam and
    || the 170s seemed to make my legs much happier. The Cannondale
    || originally had 175s.
    ||
    || 3. Wide range cogs in the back but not quite as wide as the 11-34 on
    || the Cannondale. Something like 12-27 would probably be good
    || compromise. This may dictate a wide range (i.e. mountain) deraileur.
    ||
    || 4. Shimano 9 speed drive train if still available. 10 speed if not. I
    || don't really see a need for an extra gear and the T2000 is also 9
    || speed so I have a source of emergency replacement parts..
    ||
    || 5. Shimano components. Ultegra minimum. I don't want to start a
    || Shimano/Campy war here but I already have the tools to work on
    || Shimano.
    ||
    || 6. Sealed bearing hubs in the wheels. I'm tired of repacking
    || bearings. They don't have to necessarily be cartridge bearings but
    || should be sealed well enough to prevent water and dirt from getting
    || in during a ride in the rain or a hosing off cleaning.
    ||
    || 7. Micro-adjust seatpost. I really like the Thompson seatpost that
    || came with the Cannondale.
    ||
    || 8. Brooks leather saddle.
    ||
    || 9. I'm open for suggestions on wheels. It seems that there are too
    || many choices out there. I'm looking for light weight / reliable.
    ||
    ||
    || Here are the things that I don't want:
    ||
    || 1. Anything that falls into the category of "stupid light" I am
    || currently riding about 3-4K miles a year and would like the bike to
    || last many years.
    ||
    || 2. "twitchy" road race handling. The bike should be stable enough to
    || ride "no hands" for short distances.
    ||
    || Based on this very particular "wish list" it seems that it amost
    || might be better to buy a frame and then build the bike up from
    || scratch. I am mechanically inclined enough to accomplish this. The
    || issue then becomes finding and procuring all of the necessary parts
    || at decent prices. I don't know how big of a hit in cost I'd take
    || doing it this way versus changing parts out on a new "stock" bike.
    ||
    || As always thanks for your insight and suggestions.
    ||
    ||
    || Regards,
    ||
    || Steve Sr.
     
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